Dieselfuture

Most of us will have no problems ether way if used properly, but I do know that greasable ones to make them stronger have to be installed with grease zercks facing a sertain way but can't remember exactly.

I looked at both spicers when doing my rear shaft, grease able ones obviously were drilled all the way and had cheaper seals, and non grease ables were also drilled but only about 3/4" deep to hold extra grease and had a really good seal. I told the guy to put non grease able ones in but when I came to pick it up it had grease able kind in there, he offered to change them out at no cost but they were so busy I know it was an honest mistake so I left it be and figured I'll try them out, plus he already had it balanced. They do make a mess even after I grease them and wipe everything clean. Also you have to make sure that grease comes out of all caps, I found that by giving a grease gun handle quick hits it forces grease out of a seal that's not getting any. And if that don't work then I use a small smooth hook and carefully pull on the seal lip as I'm pumping grease in, that works all the time but you have to be very careful especially on older seals. You don't need to pull to hard or far, just enough for air to come out.

Empty I'm about 750-800 egt at 65-70 mph, my quad doesn't seem to affect it at all on any level if I don't get on it. My tranny temp is around 150-160 at that speed.

I found a post on line maybe cummins forum where some one did it and other too, claiming you can make your hubs last 500k or so if you grese them every 50k. I don't know if much of it is true but from what I hear from factory it beraly has any grease in there and people had their hubs lock up on hwy before, so I did it. Try researching it a bit more.

A bit disturbing least to say

Oh man don't say that, my light for abs and brake just came on recently too. But it comes and goes. I did drilled and tapped front hubs and put a grease fitting in and put about 20 pumps in, that was 2 years ago.

How's your tranny temps being overfilled that much. Mine is filed to top of side bolt.

Top side bolt, or top middle bolt?

I see why they call it a labor day weekend now. That sucks that you have to lose trees like that. I screwed up by mixing labor day with memorial day, but it still sucks.

For that reason if I ever store anything for a long time I always fill things with cheapest motor oil to the top, and if oil can come out in have used a storage tub with random stuff in it submerged with anything I had including used oil. Used oil is not the best but it's better than rust.

That's interesting because on my qwadzila level 1 supposed to be max mileage and all it does is advance timing and nothing else. But with what everyone seems to be doing is using 143f iat setting to gain mpg, but that actually lowers timing not raises, so I'm kind of confused.

No problem, here is my resent topic on this.

What's recommended is, fill till the fluid comes out of fill hole which is almost 5 qts and then add 1 qts through shift tower to prevent a bearing failure that's higher in tranny. I've been running 5 + 2 total of 7 qts for few years now. Just few weeks ago I put on Fast cooler and filter, and now running 7.5 qts. my fluid looked really clear on my finger but when i put it in a container all i seen was sparklys form synchros, that's why I added a filter to my nv5600, I don't think it's as important on a 5 speed. Bottom line is run at least 6qts total, and change fluid on your nv5600 at least every 50k. I'm going to do mine every 30k probably.

No problem man, I know how you feel. I felt same way when I had problems surging and was about to buy a vp but decided to listen to few smart people on this site and started troubleshooting my truck, along the way I learned quite a bit and still haven't changed my vp as it seems to still function. Although once in a while it does some wired miss but then it's gone again for a long time. So far I changed injectors, which seemed to help most, but miss was still present, next big thing that helped even more was rebuilding my alternator because I had more ac noise than electronics like. Between injectors and alternator I think it took care of most of my problems. But keep in mind I already had 1/2" fuel lines through out and Fass150, also good batteries and all connections checked and cleaned. Between what I listed should take care of a lot of issues, and my latest thing was an ecl set for low voltage to map (boost) sensor, after a bit of research found out that oil sending unit shares same 5v loop and if oil sensor gets old it can short out internally. So I changed it and had no codes or problems since. It doesn't stop with problems, but more I fix, more I learn, and next problem that will come along will also be solved. I don't mind it too much, as long as it's not every day. Once I'll figure out how to fly I'll probably quit messing with it, maybe not Bottom line is all vehicles need something might as well be the one I like listening to.

I guess this will come down to personal preference, but bottom line is, not worth the time and money to pay someone you don't know or trust to work on your baby, especially something as simple as changing coolant. Also be a good time to take the radiator out and power wash it, and move your oil breather away from radiator if you haven't done it yet, Mikes crank case vent mod. I love mine. Thanks Mike.

I'd do it myself, chances of you getting it done right way for a lot of money are slim, and a good chance they will use a garden hose as well to flush with city water, and then mix your coolant with it too. So if your sity water is good which you can usually check online for your city under consumer confidence report. And if not sure on how hard your water is call your water department and ask. After you do your own flush, what I do is go buy a bunch of distilled water and fill your truck up and run the engine without a thermostat in it for maybe 5-10 min, than drain it all out and put your desired antifreeze in. I use full strength and mix it myself to about 60/40 60 begin antifreeze. And also I use coolant for heavy duty diesel so I don't chance it with cavitation of cylinder walls. If you flush your truck with distilled after you flushed it with city water you should be just fine. Right now I'm using Zerex go5, and got some Flletguard for next time.

I'm going with original spicers when my go out

I was going to say why not point bottom fitting up more to get hose out of the way, but then realized that you can drain fluid out of it without taking that fitting out.

MMine so called drone comes on around 78mph and then it sounds like a semi truck, I got 4" down pipe with 5" rest of the way and 6"tip and also a see through mufler, I really like it. And yes Katoom you're right it's around 2200 rpm

Here is a picture I just took, it's 75f outside, and my speed on hwy was 75 mph. Defiantly hotter then the other day driving 60-65. I probably wouldn't put filter on if it was a 5 speed but having these synchros and not having clean oil worries me a bit. After I'll put few thousand miles on it I'll take filter out and see just what it does, will take pictures and let you all know. But it may be a while.

Thanks, I have qwadzilla adrenalin with v2 monitor, not sure why it says edge. That filter is where I mounted my engine oil bypass filter, didn't want it in the engine compartment. Made a 1/4" bracket and welded it to the frame and then bolted filter housing to it, it out of the way and easy to change.

Thanks, I like things that come up part some what easy. On that guage pod it's supposed to be by the windshield but it was too far for my liking, so with a little trimming and making two small brackets to hold it in place I think it's in a perfect place, it only blocks about an inch of view above the hood and I'm 5'10".

How can they force emissions on a truck that didn't come with any restrictions from factory, I thought it was 2007 and up.

I usually get paranoid around 1/4 tank but have put 32 gallons in before.

Belive it or not I had a car and it was vibrating around 65 changed all I could think about, ended up being rear drums. Not sure how it was doing it but it did. Also make sure surfaces of wheel hub axle and wheel are flat and clean.