Dieselfuture

Didn't wrap my exhaust but made this shield out of aluminum

So what's the conclusion on this? What wire to tap to put a switch on so there is no affects or damage on ecm, vp, motor, etc.

Thanks for figuring it out. Here is few pictures, not sure if you're able to see all of the sparkle in that June bottle, but I put it back in, wasn't in the budget this time plus it will be a good test for that filter.

I only have that window pop up for a second and than there is nothing there. I tried different computers and it's same on all of them. So I drove about 200 ml today all hwy at about 60-65 empty, my fuel temp on vp was around 145f, tranny temp was around 148f, I noticed it took a while for both to get to that point, maybe a good hour or so. But then in between a few stops it was slightly higher for few miles and then came back to these numbers.so definitely there is some heat soaking going on.

It would have to be some one that wants parts more likely and then ditch the rest, if a random guy is looking for a getaway car, more than likely it will be a honda or a toyota car since they have a good reliability reputation. I once heard on the news that most stolen vehicle is an honda accord, and as a metter of fackt my friend had his honda accord stolen and found 500ml away. It had hub caps and pinstripes added to it, and inside looked like someone lived in there. So in my mind a person that is looking to steal a diesel is more likely knows you and want's what you have or just wants what you have. I've had my cars broken in a few times, and just the idea of some useless fu.k going through my stuff is very upsetting and not rely sure what I would do if I catch someone doing it.

That would be my guess, man if only I could figure out why I'm not able to post pictures. Every time I click on reply button that attachment paper clip shows up for a quick second then disappears.

No, just part of qwadzilla options for one of the monitoring options.

No I don't, maybe I'm using mobil site or something , I can't see people's real names ether like I used to. Plus I used to see at bottom, use mobil site or full version, don't see that ether.

I'm not that good with computers as you can see I just replied in the wrong place too, lol.

On fuel temp in vp, my guage says 130ish when driving down hwy. That's coming from my qwadzila. Tank full or empty.

Ok so I changed fluid not that long ago to Amsoil, and before I did, I flushed it with Pensoil. When I drained it after 1k it was still clear on finger but darker in a bottle due to all of syncro material that was just sparkly. So after putting amsoil in and not having that many miles on it I thought for sure it would be a lot better than before flushing it with pensoil, but it looked identical, lots of tiny brass particles. So after reading few things on these NV5600 I decided to put at least a filter on to get all these or most of particles out, and then decided to get a cooler also just because, plus I got a place to put my tyranny temp gauge now. I guess this tranny is hard on syncros or I didn't flush it as good as I thought. So I put same fluid back in plus a half of a quart to make up difference for cooler and filter, 1/2 quart is probably not enough but I'm running 7qts already instead of 5 so I figured 7.5 would be a good place. Plus you'll see in pictures why I don't think putting any more would be good for filtering as the intake on the filter is submerged in oil, but I'm hopping when I'm driving a lot of oil will be up in the air and filter will work. I'm going to give it some time and then pull it out and see if it trapped any crap. Ether way I think these NV5600 need oil changed way more often than NV4500 or an older trannys . Ok someone needs to show me a way to post pictures, I just don't see that option on my screen. All I see is insert other media, and I don't think that's it.

Ok I got cooler and filter put on and took few pictures, but for some reason can't post them from my phone so I'll put them on computer later and update. But let me tell you I'm glad I did what I did and I will try to explain a bit why later, I hope.

Make sure there is no burs inside where caps go in or it will put uneven pressure on the cap and ruin your joints quick, also when you're done putting it together use a hard rubber hammer and hit on drive shaft lightly while resting yoke on something and vise versa to get caps pushed back against clips so it turns real smooth and easy, and also make sure to clean groves where clips go in rely well. You can use a socket and hammer but make sure you don't over force things and you're hitting and supporting right places.

I told them what I thought was wrong and the guy at fass agreed with me and sent me new spring and ball free of charge, he said it happens sometimes when they sit on shelf too long. My guess is if you don't drive it for a year it may happen also. My truck sits for a month at a time sometimes longer without a problem, so I'm guessing it has to be a longer time period.

I told them what I thought was wrong and the guy at fass agreed with me and sent me new spring and ball free of charge, he said it happens sometimes when they sit on shelf too long. My guess is if you don't drive it for a year it may happen also. My truck sits for a month at a time sometimes longer without a problem, so I'm guessing it has to be a longer time period.

My pressure was up and down 3 psi on a brand new fass150, put a new ball and spring on return of fass and pressure been steady, I also modified the spring a bit by curling it a little so the ball doesn't get stuck in it.

Make sure all of the air is out

I assume you changed injectors already to see if that's not it.

In my opinion anytime you increase arch on leafsprings, ride quality goes down if you would keep it same load rating. Unless you do shackle flip it gets better, but I also think that it works your springs harder. If it was me, and I go for reliability vs jacked up on big tires (I do understand you're keeping ride height same, just thinking of getting rid of blocks) I would use a more flatter spring or stock ones and not as many leafs as long as it holds truck up with little extra waight to spaire and also adding air bags for towing. This way you may have a batter ride when not towing and air bags for when you need them. Just thinking out loud.

double check codes with a good reader, how old injectors, 12psi is a bit low but don't think it would do that, noticed your oil pressure is low could be a bad oil sending unit that is cutting 5 volts to your map sensor, just happened to me.

Any codes? Mine didn't have any codes and I experienced similar problem like you but on higher rpm, closet to 1800. Been chasing this problem for few years now, at first things pointed to injectors, helped but didn't cure it, then ac noise from alternator rebuild it and much better, then it did it again this time I had a code for low voltage to map sensor, I think I traced it down to oil pressure sender, it shears same 5 volts with map. Haven't driven it much but code didn't come back ether. This whole time could of been a 15 dollar oil sender. Maybe not, but it is a learning thing for sure.

Not sure if you guys seen this https://www.quad4x4.com/Causes%20of%20Manual%20Transmission%20Failures.htm

That's what I'm thinking too, that way it won't be soaking heat from the exhaust, and I'll put the filter on the exhaust side. I'm also thinking about using the other cooler on my tcase, why having it just laing around. When I spoke with a guy from Geno's I told him that maybe they should offer a kit that comes with a filter and a cooler, and pointed him to quad4x4 site for filter kit as he didn't know where he can get them.

My pressure also stays at 17-18 psi mo matter what, but only after putting 1/2" lines on all through out, except the return from injectors is still factory return. I now fave a fass150 but it was same steady pressure with my AirDog.

So what do you guys think on which side would be best for a cooler? Which direction do you think oil is flying inside the tranny?