Dieselfuture

Well it's a mixet review, some people never had problem gelling, I had it happen a few times. To be safe I would dump something in, whatever you prefer and then make sure it gets through the system. I don't think anyone can predict the weather that good. What I've always done too put a little bit of fuel that's in your tank in the little glass jar and set it on the bumper that way you could take a look and see what it looks like if it's foggy you know it's jelling

Sounds right to me, if it's not your trailer I would check wheel bearings valve stems and tires, lights too. Good luck

I think I need a new power steering pump to it's been harder to turn wheels at idle all started after I did The Flash I'd say fix your truck then do some studying, more than likely multiple-choice you always got a 50-50 chance,

I'll have to say power steering pump since it's responsible for both steering and braking also could just be pressure spring or something in the pump stuck, not sure if it could be Hydro Boost, since fluid goes through that also, sorry just mumbling things out.

Be careful sniffing, apparently it's cause of cancer and liberals don't want you sniffing it, because you never know if what you're sniffing is good for you. I'm sure some day they'll tell us all how to walk again and get with the program that's good for you, they know better live it up to them to tell us what we should do, it's better for us all. Some people believe this nonsense, I hope none of us. got to be a balance.

That's why I put amsoil in pretty much everything that I don't have to change too often, figured it's cheaper then oem stuff and better then most brands. used to run their motor oil too but decided to switch to more common stuff. been running cen-pe-Co for a while now, seems to be good stuff.

It will never happen ,

I believe it was parker, but can't remember past that, it was quite a bit more expensive then regular diesel line, but it was not a biodiesel line ether, they had to order that one. That solid half inch aluminum return from lift pump is something I made up with jic fittings and drilled another hole in module. Reason I did this is Factory restricted fitting made my fuel supply psi swing too much about 3psi or so. after doing this it's been steady + - 1psi no matter what. I had a discussion with Vulcan, telling them to include 2 draw straw fittings and a tube to go down, but apparently they didn't listen. I would have paid extra 40 bucks or whatever save me time running around getting JIC fittings and flareing half inch aluminum tube. Plus going through module I had to figure out a way to seal fuel from coming out of hole, can't quite remember what I did there. but I did use some J-B Weld compatible with diesel fuel to make that fitting solid with basket. And the little aluminum tube that slips inside corrugated plastic line just fits snug inside, haven't had problems yet. Both aluminum lines have a notch in them, in case they do get in contact with the bottom of basket. I did this with fuel tank installed and more than half tank of fuel so I was able to get lengths cut just right.

I'd have to add, my truck never had great mpg, and now I got bigger then stock tires and home made bumpers that way quite a bit, empty I'm close to 8000lb with me in truck. so I guess for the price difference in parts I'll go with bigger brakes, I did notice improvement when towing, it's worth it to me, and I'll be always dreaming of Mikes mpgs

I'd have to add, my truck never had great mpg, and now I got bigger then stock tires and home made bumpers that way quite a bit, empty I'm close to 8000lb with me in truck. so I guess for the price difference in parts I'll go with bigger brakes, I did notice improvement when towing, it's worth it to me, and I'll be always dreaming of Mikes mpgs

I believe it was parker, but can't remember past that, it was quite a bit more expensive then regular diesel line, but it was not a biodiesel line ether, they had to order that one.

Rotors are bigger and pads are bigger if you get Wagner thermal quite they are about same size as 2nd gen pads, I would recommend getting cheaper pads for several reasons, more surface are too.

I've let some fuel line that is blue in color on outside and almost look similar to hydraulic hose minus the steel wire inside, made for diesel fuel sit in a jar of diesel for two years and it looked fine. it's not that cheap crap that comes with fuel pumps.

I think you're right, mine goes down all the way maybe 1/4 of bottom. plus if it doesn't then it makes lots of air in that basket if it's not submerged in fuel.

As far as I know they are same as 2nd gen 2001-2002, I was able to use my calipers and had to buy capper brackets. plus of course you'll need 17" wheels to clear.

Forgot to mention I went with option 4, I like it. can't belive I postponed cd player with usb port for that long, but on bright side it's outdated and cheap now. and being able to see behind me now is awesome too.

Sorry I thought I replied to your question, but apparently not. Costco said I had to be a member and it was an online order only, so I found it on Amazon with free shipping that took about a week, but overall so far I like it. it does have a sound too and you're able to plug in up to 3 cameras to this unit and able to tugle between them. comes with an adapter to hook up a dvd player, I might do that. the location I chose is ok and still visible from back seat. plus that little cubby hole for storage is useless to me. I did use rtv on the camera around seams and put some in speaker hole, don't think I'll hear much with truck running, and don't want any moisture making its way in.

As long as they're installing Quality Parts in I don't see anything wrong with it, I would choose Spicer non greasable.

Well camera showed up and had few hours here and there to get it installed. Firs impression is took a little time figuring locations to mount but I think it will work.

Funny you mention it, I got mine last week made for rvs just started to put things in I'll update my thread with few pictures. can't wait to be able to see right behind me.

Is there a time frame that we need to wait with key on before starting the truck, aside from wait to start? do we need to wait for the phone app to load and start reading what's going on before we start the truck? reason I'm asking is I think sometimes if I start it too quick then I get some glitches, the other day I started the truck for first time in morning with about 40f ambient and didn't wait for anything and pulled in a garage turned key off but the truck was still running and what it was is my turbo timer that is set at 350 f but qwad was telling me temp was at 560 f, I turned exhaust break on just to see if it goes up and it actually went down to about 430 f. so I tapped go pedal and truck died, tried starting it again but waited for qwad to load and it did same thing. not sure, haven't started since. also I had that issue with not having to wait till truck warms to my preset temp of 140 f so I'm able to change power levels which was also first start of the day. so I'm thinking is there strain time that it takes qwad to properly load?

I have m80 casted into my rear end and it's a 10 bolt cover, I have nv5600 and 1410 u joints. I believe 1410 and 1350 has same size caps, just 1410 is wider.

Got it all updated to latest version, what changed. when first started truck noticed psi is bouncing between 1 and 2. when got to about 120 collant temp. Got steady at 2psi. another thing is warm up mode is gone now, I could change power levels before coolant reached my warmup setting of 140. not sure what I did wrong. I did have some issues doing a flash, maybe it's only partially loaded.

correct, maybe we found a way to reprogram the ECM