joecool911

My trailer is 23' long and one room plus bathroom. The Buddy heater works good for me...just prefer vented heat, which will be less humid as well. Just wish the stove had a glass door so I could see the flame. Might have to make one? I will need to cut down the end of a cabinet/counter the width of one drawer and door. The stove needs a certain amount of pipe inside the trailer to draw properly. I'll use cement backer board and galvanized sheet metal for shielding in close quarters. Stove $169 roof thimble $70 piping $24 stack for top of pipe $49 misc backer board and sheet metal on hand $0 TOTAL $312. Not bad for a vented 16,000 btu stove. Stove will sit right above the water heater.

It is easy to deplete the batteries in one cool night with the furnace. It's still there, but trying not to use it. I will post some pics when I get it installed. It has a damper to control burning efficientcy and requires an outside fresh air. Fresh air enters the bottom. Will install a PVC pipe through the exterior wall and terminate it under the stove. I still will have a CO detector in the RV to make sleeping more safe. Running all night is my goal.

I'm not happy with the furnace for the RV for camping. We do a lot of boondocking. Tried the big buddy heater, but not fond of the fumes. Supposed to be safe, but still kinda stinky. So now I've ordered a Nu Way propane heater made for ice shacks. They are vented with 3" pipe. Cheap, $169 to your door. Then you've got the venting stuff. Only expensive thing was the thimble to go through the roof. Got one made for boats $70. Rest of pipe is cheap single wall. Got the 3000 model which is 16,000 btu. I wrestled with going wood. But problem is that the little stoves require constant stoking. Besides, btu storage is already there for propane and the existing tanks will provide many hours of heating. About 7 hours per gallon at full throttle. Won't need it full most of the time. I find that most times the Buddy heater is sufficient at 8,000 byu's. That's 14 hours per gallon.

We got chickens this year. 16 pullets. One turned out to be a rooster. Her name was Ginger. Now Gingerbread Man. But I call him Junior. They all use the same bathroom. Lol.

Sounds like a one day job then.

Wonder if Motive makes a cap to fit the master cylinder for pressurized bleeding? Sure do like my brake bleeder for bleeding brakes! One person operation. All at the wheels.

Not something I'd suggest either for no good reason. But to get home, it'll work. Better than a tow.

When my clutch went out on my gasser, I'd start it in 1st gear and shift without the clutch. Should be able to get a reasonable distance without a clutch.

Well, that's a new ECM then. Just saying it needs to be dealt with. Im not against the conversion. In fact I'd like to do it myself. Just have come to the conclusion that it might be better to buy one that's factory that way...unless you own a truck that has a dead automatic. Then you gotta do something. I'd love to put all the parts together and go visit Michael and have him help. Then we'd have a really good article and info on the subject. Maybe I can do a gofundme for the money to do it???? If if you guys want to put together a complete list of necessary parts, we could have it for future use. Break down the kit into components necessary as well for those who don't go that way. Then there is the steering column to deal with...shifter and gear indicator in the dash. Optional and cosmetic of course. Then there is your title. Mine designates "automatic." So if you go to sell it, not sure it's going to be worth what a titled manual would be worth???

People have been known to shortcut. But you'll get codes and check engine light if you don't change out the ECM and PCM. Jonathan 1950 used to be here and did the conversion in short cut way. I've not seen him lately here. Would be interesting to hear from him.

I thought AC noise came from high voltage transmission lines? Seriously, it's amazing how original equipment can last for decades and replacements aren't worth a hoot. We've become accustom to prices that originate in China and then when faced with real quality it's tough to chew. But if you factored in inflation, some of the "high end parts" are not so out of line.

You'll need a PCM, ECM for manual too. This is not a complete kit.

I suppose that in a case of loosing boost that the drum brakes would be easier to use due to much lower PSI required for drum vs disc? But then again, the rear pressure is probably compensated to allow for use of both types with one pedal...so maybe not.

I'm mostly stock. 50 horse injectors. I don't push the truck hard. Not sure what the TC is, but it was sold as a twin disc Billet. When I put the truck into gear it hits pretty hard. Will go 15 mph at idle on flat ground. Mostly wondering if a towing valve body and the increased line pressure would make the transmission last longer and if it would exaggerate the into gear slam even more? Do you do the installation with the transmission in the truck?

Just kinda long range planning for a 5 or 6 speed manual. Exhaust brake would then be a reality!

I have the first year of 4 wheel disc brakes. For those who have owned both disc and drum rears...are there definate advantages to the discs? Pro's and con's??? Enough of a difference to look specifically for 2001.5 and newer? Limits your options a lot!

Nice photos!

I had a new torque converter installed about 50,000 miles ago. I'm not real happy with the low stall aspects of it. When you shift into gear it hits pretty hard. My question is...if I installed a towing valve body which increases line pressure, will the shift into gear be even more exaggerated? Is this adjustable at all? Would installing a new valve body increase the life expectancy of my 47re? It's got 215,000 miles on it. I tend to baby the transmission. I don't lug it much. Tend to keep rpms higher when under a heavy load. Third question...with the upgraded valve body can I get more control of shifting? Obviously I can select 1,2 and lock out overdrive. But the control between 3rd and lockup is not available.

Do you have a pressure tester? That's the best way to find leaks. Do it cold so it doesn't evaporate.

The water pump on these trucks are the easiest I've ever changed. No gasket or sealer to deal with. Just the serp belt and 2 bolts. So I opted for a Napa pump when mine went out. Still going strong after 2 years. For the $40 cost I'd just throw another into the parts box in the truck and change it on the fly if it goes out on the road. Gee like a ratchet and one socket to change. Biggest issue is letting the truck cool enough to change it.

Crankcase breather has long been relocated. But the aftermath remains.

Well heck, if he can do it!!!

What's the best way to clean the puke bottle overflow out of the radiator? I have a power washer, but not a steam cleaner. I realize it needs to be taken off the vehicle for access.

You guys are a lot of help. Where were you when I was along the road dead? ?At least I have now experienced this now myself and it's not that big a deal. As far as cooling goes, any worse than shutting off the vehicle with the key? I wasn't even warmed up.

That's even easier. For some reason I thought it might include 6, which would be a real pain to do.