Prowelder

Awesome Mike!!!!!!

I didn't have any problems when I had the Smarty in my truck for a little while, but white01 had a problem that when he returned his truck back to stock (to loan me the Smarty), it turned off his high idle. Sounds like something that Bob Wagner could answer for you.

That's probably true. My friend got a hold of someone else that told him to loosen the springs and set the idle screw back to where it was before I messed with it. Going to try to do that tonight if we have time. I'll let everyone know what happens!

Thanks Mike, but the P-pump is a little different or at least I think it is. There are two springs that we changed out and they inside the pump....

Awesome, that was what I was kinda thinking. By the time we got done it was dark outside so we didn't have a chance to give that a try. I'll let him know!

Hey Gang, Well I helped my friend install his 4 GSK in his '98 12v automatic 4x4 truck today and ran into a little hiccup.... All went well up until we started the truck up and it had jumped from idling at 650rpms to 1000rpms so we adjusted the idle adjustment back down to about 850 RPMs.But the real problem is whenever he puts the truck into gear (auto) it dies.... It does it in both drive and reverse. It drives fine down the road, really moves!!!!:drool:We measured the studs you're supposed to measure on the truck and the starting measurement was about .015 and the nuts were relatively loose. We installed them at .040-.050 like the paperwork said. They are about at .045 and the other at .048, give or take a little.Now we also kept reading about some shims... the truck did not have these shims in it that we saw and the factory sealing paint was over the retainers as well and hadn't been broken either....:shrug:I suppose the real question is do we need to tighten the retainers up? Or do I need to loosen them up? Or something else??? This is his only truck and it is a real pain for him as it dies at every stoplight and sign!!!! Any help would be awesome!!:pray:Thanks,Winslow

Full set of gauges! Fuel pressure, EGTs, Boost along with a better fuel system like a Raptor or Airdog.:thumbup2:Let me know if I can help you out with a fooler!

I'm always a little leery of information from someone that has everything to gain from selling more of something. But I'm no engineer, just a guy with several cars with 250-350K miles on them, all with great compression and oil pressure. I've known several trucks that weren't warmed up and they are weak as can be. Just my preference, like I said each to their own. But what the high idle does is add a little load to the engine to help warm it up without requiring it to carry the weight of the truck.

I agree that short running any car/ truck is really hard on it. I don't have the problem personally as everything is a commute but if I was having to do some really short runs, I would prefer something in the gas category and it would have to be cheap. When I worked at the lake for a while we drove around under 20 mph for 8 hours sometimes and those truck SUCKed in the power department! I was surprised how much more power I gained with my lake truck when I began to floor it up to 60 mpg going to the over side of the lake on the highway. After a month or so, it really perked up!

Yep, yep, yep. You can call it what you want, but I'll stick with High Idle as that is the most common term people can remember. I prefer to let my engine warm up before I go driving it, but each to their own. It's your truck, your money, do with it what you want.

Not all lawyers are bloodsuckers... Sometimes they come into play after someone has wronged you...

Yeah that's true, but in my opinion, just not practical.

It would be easy to do a single switch. Just solder on a 39k resister to and the four wires for the IAT harness and you would have a single switch high idle.

Unless you're good like me and get it for free!!!!

Or it could be something to do with the Quadzilla....

That sounds more like an ECM problem. Like for some reason it doesn't want to figure out what to do. Now as for a fix.... That I'm not sure???

That's interesting... are your switches working all the time?

Mike is right one. You need to do a simple test and see what your ohms are looking like. It's sooo hard to tell what is going on inside that box with everything the same color..... Since your coolant gauge isn't working, I'm saying you have something funny with your ECT harness, like it is always on.... Could you take a picture of the whole system so we can see where the wires are going to the plugs? This might help you a little bit:

Yeah I know guys, that's why I'm hoping the dealer has and cut them for a reasonable price. I've got several dealers to choose from so I would hope one of them can do it!!

Yeah that's what I was thinking about doing, but just thought I would check to see what they charge first to see if I would be ahead in buying the blanks and going to a hardware store, or just having a dealer do it. My thinking is if the dealer screws up, they can just replace the key where if a hardware store screws it up, I'm out a key blank.

Yeah I guess that would work too!

Yeah I know, I've got about 3 or 4 of them. One I keep hidden on the truck. I'm just wanting a matched Mopar one just for the looks aspect of it!

Moparians,I'm wanting to get another Mopar key cut for my truck to use as an ignition key that I leave inside the truck so I can leave it running and lock the doors. I've got several just plain hardware keys for it as spares but I'm wanting a Mopar oem one. Does anyone have an idea what a dealer charges to cut another key? I found some key blanks on ebay for like $9 plus $4 shipping. Just thought I would check at a dealer before I go and buy them off there. Any ideas?:shrug:Thanks,Winslow

I think LMC has the rubber floor mats which I would really like to have myself. I would go with either vinyl or leather, depending on your budget and what you do. Vinyl is cheaper and cleans up pretty easy, but leather does too. If it is mostly a dirty truck, I would say vinyl. They seem to have a lot of seat covers if you Google them. Even a cloth cover would work well b/c you could pull it off and clean it.

I used to work at that shop. We built all sorts of things from trailers to beds to asphalt repair equipment, along with farm repair, both mechanical and metal fabrication/ welding. Due to the owner failing to pay, I don't work there anymore. I'm still working on getting paid and it has been well over a year since I worked there. Now I don't weld much anymore, just a little here and there for myself. In college working on my business degree with plans to go to law school afterward.