KATOOM

Fantastic news.....!

And stress.....dont forget stress. You're certainly dealing with some right now too.

Hey now.....those figures I posted were from your findings a few years ago based on your high techy machinery. Dont go changing things up on me now.....

The engine temp gauge "normal" area is 160*F and 220*.

Thanks for the update.

Not to get all gloomy with things no fun to talk about, but I'd think as long as you have everything recorded as joint tenancy with survivorship you should be OK. But hey.....it sounds like she's going to be fine.

Suddenly feeling excluded from the group.

Wait...what?.....thats an option?

Glad to hear she's on the up hill. And too bad you're 15 hours from me otherwise I'd be more than happy to help you out with some chores. But I have to ask, why the comment about future legalities?

Loved to hunt with my old labs.

Sadly depending on where you live and how those laws are written, you may just save time and money to address this issue yourself by digging a trench and installing a french drain. Even if you took him to court and won, it sounds like he's not the type of guy who would make anything easy from that point on.

Just saw this thread..... Will be watching closely now to hopefully hear everything is OK. Prayers made.....

Whatever you decide to do, make sure to take a before and after video so people have an idea of what to expect if they find your thread later on.

Exactly. And probably why some ECM's suddenly stop powering the lift pump.

Sorry to leave anyone hanging..... Glad you see what I mean about the relay ON/OFF switch. And yes, you're all correct. This relay is ONLY for those who have an aftermarket "electric" fuel pump which pulls more amps than the OEM lift pump and already came with a relay to delegate load away from the ECM. The Fuel Boss kit wouldnt use any other relay either because the assumption would be that the ECM is already doing the job just fine. No need for another relay unless there's something going on with the ECM not properly powering the lift pump. The relay I posted was simply how to stop those aftermarket fuel pumps from over pressurizing the VP during engine cranking. If someone doesnt have one of those aftermarket relays in place then you can use IBMobile relay drawing. But I just wouldn't remove any relay provided by FASS or Airdog.

Well because you've only been around for 22 years, thats why..... No seriously, when I say turn backwards, there are countless times I've had to turn a fitting backwards for being farther than I wanted, or working with two threaded fittings fit together and by moving one you accidentally move the other in the wrong direction or too far. I dont think I've ever broken a fitting from over tightening either..... But yes, you're correct, to each is own. I hate Teflon tape.....you love it. Thats why they sell both.

I'm not sure what you're seeing about the fuel pump running only when the starter is engaged..... The relay in the diagram I posted is an ON / switched OFF relay. So when pin 85 is energized with the key in START position, the relay switches OFF and stops the signal to the fuel pump. And in regards to the ECM, yes you're right.....but also wrong. Dont forget that most aftermarket electric fuel pumps also include within their wiring loom kit a new relay which removes the voltage load from the ECM, although still retaining all ECM pump operations. However this relay diagram I posted is merely acting as a secondary switch overriding the ECM's "control" of the fuel pump when the key is in the START position, but again retaining all the factory fuel pump functions.

This is a diagram I got from Mike years ago. You should be able to follow the schematics but if not just ask.

I wont use Teflon tape unless its the last thing available and there's no stores around with anything else..... Not only is it hard to work with, easy to leak, but you can only turn the threads in one direction. Meaning, once you've turned past the point where you "should" have stopped, there's no going backwards because the tape will just pile up and leak for sure. Any fuel compatible thread sealant is better than Teflon tape. I've had a tube of Loctite for so long that its cracked and busted open. Sits in my tool box wrapped up with paper towels, and if I need any I simply scoop out a glob. Going to get my money's worth. And.....just as with ANY thread sealant, you cant get ANY on the internal surface. Thats BAD.

Aside from the obvious point that todays ATF is not the same as yesteryear's ATF..... ATF is designed to not burn very easily with a flash point of around 400*, containing all kinds of additives and detergents too which act like liquid sandpaper to fuel system components. On the other side of the coin, 2-stroke typically has a flash point of around half of what ATF does, 200* give or take. And its sole purpose is to become a "total lose" during combustion. Old timers usually will use what they've used and do what they've done for years, and are generally clueless to the advancements of the internal combustion engine and lubricants. Not that thats a bad thing either.....

Hey.....I just want to make it clear that I really dont care which one anyone uses. You'll get no fight from me other than just making sure everyone knows the facts when they do decide to make a choice.

Precisely..... But just to clarify for everyone else, the snubber is working based on the Bernoulli principle, not just because the hole is small.

Friction plays ZERO part in this equation. Fluid friction is something you calculate when you're figuring how fast fluid can flow through a specific size line before volume and pressure are affected, and the fluid abrasively deteriorates the wall material. Snubbing is whats happening when the fuel flows through a larger line through a smaller hole and then back to larger. Thats not friction. Instead we're talking around 15 psi of pressure here, and hardly any fuel movement at that. A smaller diameter line will move more pressure faster and harder as there's less mass/volume to move within. Physics. Thus why the fuel injection lines on this engine are necessary to be the smaller diameter they are, and why most high pressure components/tools have smaller diameter lines.

I've used both 1/8 and 1/4 inch air-brake line for fuel pressure gauges. And I prefer the larger of the two because of these reasons: Its less likely to kink, more mass to prevent unwanted rubbing through on other objects, 1/4 has better sealing fittings over that of the tiny 1/8 compression, its much easier to bleed air out of 1/4, its easier to plumb through and around things, and.....the hydrodynamic pulses are less. Yes, I've argued this before but it seems to continually go unheard for some unknown reason too. Larger diameter line will actually reduce the pulses traveling through the lines due to the larger volume of the static fuel inside over that of tiny little diameter lines. Remember, the gauge line is "static"..... For the pulses to travel through larger lines takes more energy and force, thus they weaken faster. And the change in diameter is greater through the snubber. But hey, I'm obviously talking in some strong wind when this topic comes about.....

All those who have goats at their place will understand..... http://i.imgur.com/j7WkuFO.gifv