snowshoveler

I used original mopar ones I took out of control arms from a front housing. I work in a shop where boss bring tractor trailer of parts home from south Carolina. Sheet metal...frames and chassis parts...engines and trans. Makes it great for me...those bolts were free to me. But spendy at the dealer. Regards Chris

I just replaced mine. The large ones are 5/8 and mine are 9/16. Same as yours I would say. I think the change over was mid 99. Not positive though. I work at a place that sells used truck parts. It was easy peasy for me to grab a couple new to me bolts. Regards Chris

My truck did steer heavy with the BFGs but seems a lot easier with the Michelin's. I swapped the steering box long ago for a chebby one from a 2500 gasser. Does not leak and run synthetic fluid. So far so good there. Chris

My buddy with the alignment machine will set it where ever I tell him. I have the control arms set long now. It drives great and handles better than you would think for a heavy truck. Just want it where its going to be happy the longest... Chris

Was bored so I went to work and swapped out the BFG all terrains for the Michelin defenders. Only drove it back home which is about a mile, that is all it took to really like the new tires. Sounds crazy but I think the old tires which still have a lot of tread...must have poor casings. It drives much better now. Chris

Thanks folks...

I have a 99 quad cab 4x4 short box. New Michelin's going on next week and an alignment as well. The front end is tight and no abnormal wear in the usual places. I don't drive it much and try to stay on top of repairs and maintenance I have had it lined up in the past and that lower control arm adjustment bolt was never touched. The bolt was seized. Easy enough fix. I used a zip saw and cut the bolt out and then drove the center out. Replaced with factory parts. My question is...I thought there was a discussion on adjusting this to push the housing forward on the bottom for better handling. I looked but can't find that info again. The guy doing the alignment will do what I suggest and knows a nice bit about these trucks himself. We both have the question on this though. Regards Chris

Only thing that changes when you turn steering wheel...is the axle joints in front diff. Jack it off the ground and turn steering wheel and the rotate wheel by hand. Bet you 1 has a seizing joint. Easy to check but no one ever does. Chris

You know your making a nice bit more power than me. If I am not careful I can smoke the tires at 30 and 40 MPH if the roads are just so. I just about have to stop then...the drivers side rear tries to pass the front end every time. Yours must be even crazier. Regards Chris

I priced a Redhead box and a couple others. By the time shipping, taxes and exchanges are done with me. Its like 8 or 900 bucks. I did the next best thing. I put a steering box on my truck from a similar year chebby. Direct bolt on everything. Nice and tight and no leaks. Cost 50 bucks from the local truck salvage. Chris

Pretty easy to check this out. Get your handy dandy 4 foot level and put it on the side of each tire, verticle. You can easily see if the axle is is sideways by the relationship to the fender. Regards Chris

I took a set of factory aluminum wheels home from work. They were from a 15 or 16 I think. Had 265 / 65 18 goodyears on them half worn. I was really liking the look of them. I was pretty sure the bolt pattern was the same, and it was. However they would only go half way over the rear axle hub on my 99. I could have got them for a pretty good price but returned them, lesson learned. Chris

So are you taking bids on that sensor that you cant return cause its got dirty finger prints on it...but fits my truck just fine. I will start the bidding at a box of beer. Regards Chris PS...Mike gets half the beer

Sorry at this time I just have the 5 speed ECM and that is my spare. Hope I don't have to use it. I keep an eye on the stray AC voltage now thanks to info posted here. Regards Chris

I have a few ECMs I gathered up over the years. My original had a sketchy wait to start light. I swapped an ECM from a 5 speed to my auto and it had the same lopey big cam idle. It sounded cool to the youngfellas and did work really nice. I have since swapped it for an auto ECM and it works normal again. Regards Chris

I have in the past welded a wire to a nut and then slid it in a hole in the frame rail and manuvered it to the offending hole and then bolted it back together. If you have an opening even a foot away that you can get a nut in it might work for you. Regards Chris

Any of you put the 3rd gen bar on your truck. I have put a couple good 2nd gen ones on and a couple low buck specials on it. They all fail. I have driven this truck 20 k in 6 years. I do have 285 tires on it with M/T aluminum wheels. They are actually a lot lighter than my chrome original ones with the 245s on it. So I am thinking of buying the bracket that bolts to the frame and putting the 3rd gen bar on. I can get the bars for free if the stock ones fit my truck. Thanks for any input, positive or negative. That is how we learn.

2 wheel drive... That's the easy setup with a dust cap and a cotterpin thru the nut. Then remove the big nut and pull the rotor. The cone bearings are cheap and easy I think. Regards Chris

My buddy has the same truck as you. Same issues too. He swapped out everything, same as you. I think the fix was a bearing was sloppy on one side of the rear axle. Was not really bad but enough that it allowed things to move. You should also check that 1 of your universals is not out of phase in the rear driveshaft. Regards chris

Yes folks after 175000 miles and many of them with an edge set on kill and the last 10 k with a set of 100 sticks. Its toast. I can not complain at all. Its all original looking to me and even the converter is NOT a billet one. So here is my question. I can get a low mile bilt trans from my buddy that wants to put in a 5 speed. Or I have found a 2013 48re that has just 3000 miles on it. Truck was burnt in the cab and insurance wrote it off. Can one of these fit in my truck...should I even think about this at all. Thanks for any info. Regards Chris. And I might have messed it up all ready...68RE not 48re... sorry about that

I couple years ago I put a chevy box on my truck. Its the quicker ratio box. Truck steers pretty tight with it. Was a direct fit, no changes or issues at all. Only thing I will mention is it takes a little more driver strength in slow speed manuvers. Regards Chris

My buddy replaced his mount and told me it stiffened up the truck a bit. He thought if might even took away some shudder in lockup. I picked up a new one and put it in tonight. The old one was nasty. Definitely has fixed my shudder.

Went to the local dealer for the pan gasket. The parts guy is nice to me. He ordered me the spacer kit and it will be in early next week. He is pretty familiar with that setup. Once in a while it pays to go there. Now If I can find a decent exhaust... Regards Chris

I just have the deeper pan. Its on a 727. Chris.

Just wondering if you have to put a different filter on if you use a pan thats an inch or so deeper. Working on a little side project Ramcharger and have a nice deep I would swap if I dont need to mod the filter. Thanks Chris