snowshoveler

I couldn't source a good steering box here for less than the price of a new truck. My buddy told me to put on 1 from a 1/2 ton. I was a bit sceptical but I put it on and it works great. Not the 3 turn box for sure but much better than what I had. Chris

I swiped a powersaw for the whole outfit. I don't remember seeing a full hydraulic plow on a Cummins. This was on a 96 with a 318. Any chance I can put that pulley on the crankshaft of the cummins, providing I have the right bolt. Its just for my own use in my driveway. I have a skidloader but its tired and has no heat. The truck should be fine in my driveway. Other than needing a coat of paint the plow is good to go. Chris

Well if this was 30 years ago and your 6 cylinder was still a Dodge ( slant 6, leaning tower of power) it would do the exact same thing, and maybe for a longer part of your drive. So I would say your fuel might have had a tiny bit of gelling going on. Once you got a bit of heat into it all was good. I am surprised your wife didn't smack you for this miss on your part. Oh wait...maybe this is a test. Remember I am from Canada and everyone thinks we all live in igloos so we know all about crappy fuel. Regards Chris

Well I started the truck last night and guess what...waited about 5 seconds for the light to come on. Started fine after letting it do its thing. I can't imagine the ECM really having the usual AC voltage problem and still lasting 2 and a half years. Does not seem to be consistant. Might have the light come on proper 5 times and then next time , not so much. May try a reflash with the DRB when the temps warm up a bit. Time to read the book some more. Thanks Chris

I pulled the batteries and put them on a maintainer/charger for the night. I was a tiny bit nervous of moving the fuel filter canister, however when you remove the 2 bolts it easily tips down out of the way. I removed the allen screw holding connection to the ECM...well what do you know, it was not very tight. I would say it was finger tight at best. I cleaned it and put a bit of the dielectric greas on it and re assemebled it working it back and forth a bit to make a good connection. While I was at it I cleaned and greased the connections the connections on the computer on the firewall. Re installed the batteries and .....then. Success, the wait to start lights up right now every time the key is cycled. My feeling is that the somewhat loose connection on the ECM was my problem. It has been this way since I got the truck...I should have done this long ago. i also checked out the alternator for AC noise and if my fancy pants snapon meter is any good I have .001 to .01 ac volts. I should note that this meter has made me look bad on oacasion on some jobs at work. I just don't trust it. Will check again with a fluke meter at work. Regards Chris

Planning on doing the electrical connection cleanup and dielectric grease job...today or maybe tommorow. Much warmer temps tommorow. Is it recomended to unhook both batteries when servicing these connectors. I would think so and I looked for a post Yankneck made about it but no luck. Regards Chris

So how are you liking the new ball joints. Do you think they will last a while or do they have a crappy appearance to them. Many of us will be doing the same job in time and its good to know whats good and whats not so good. Regards Chris

In my world as a small engine wrench. I have found atlernators don't like deep discharged batteries and neither do the batteries. Solinoids and relays tend to not like the low voltage. They will stick and burn if they don't get enough amps to connect well. How this relates to our trucks I can only imagine its more important because everything is much bigger and much more expensive. Chris

When I started this morning the light was slow to come on...it did come on and started fine and there was no window malfunction. Might have been a wardrobe malfunction but that's a whole nother story. Chris

Well...a new development this evening. My Jetta the daily driver had a frozen drivers window... I was a bit to agressive and managed to screw up the track and now the window is out of service. SOOOO I cleaned the snow off the trusty Dodge and put the key in...I was a bit skeered of the wait to start light. Wouldn't you know it, the little bugger lit right up as soon as I turned the key. And its cold and has been cold here...10 F right now and was 5 below last night. It dosen't get much colder than that around here...even though you folks think we make the cold air...ha ha. The batteries might be a little low because I have not used it much this winter. It fired right off when I rolled it after the light went off. I must say that impressed me quite a bit...2 thumbs up for the Dodge Regards Chris

A friend of mine tat runs a pretty good auto body shop...told me that he clear coats them all the time. I did a little touch up paintng on my jetta and tried the clearcoat thing on those lenses. The lights were just as nasty as my truck I sanded with 2000 grit paper...at this point I was pretty scared I ruined them. However I figgured I would clear them anyway...well after 3 light coats they are awesome. Best lights on any vehicle I have. I will pop the lights out of my truck and do them as soon as it warms up a bit ... LOL If you have a bit of time and a clean place give the clearcoat a try. Remember when these trucks were new the lights were not to bad. Regards Chris

Well Larry... Your truck is not doing much this time of year, might as well take the DRB home and try it out...jus sayn Chris

Ummm...been reading on some jetta forums and those boys in Europe have had the VP44s on a lot ov things for some time. Some of them mention the 5.9 Cummins has lots of electronic mods available, this I understand. Would a VP44 from an european engine share any parts with a VP44 on a Cummins. Specifically the electronics...lots and I mean lots of those pumps around i could play with. Chris

Well Ed... Could you just build a new board and stick it in there instead. Be nice if it was just plug and play as well. And while you are at it...put the electronics in a little box somewhere else that is easily accessed and repaired / replaced. Chris

How does the dealership re program the used or rebuilt ones. Can it be done with just a DRB3.... Chris

Loose connection...that right there is probably a great start. That would explain it working most of the time until its really cold. I think so anyway. Is it possible that when its colder that a wire contracts just enough for the ECM to loose a connection ... Thanks Tom...this gives me a place to start. Chris

the light does not come on for maybe 10 or 15 seconds. read my above post. This is the the part that is the ? Chris

Thats correct when warm.. lets say 70 degrees, the light is on and off right away. However when cooler. lets say 35 degrees the light is on right away and stays lit untill the grid heaters do their job. When it real cold out ( well real cold for us) the light does not come on for maybe 10 or 15 seconds . Then it lights and the grid heaters do their thing. I do understand that the colder it it the longer they stay on. The pause when real cold is what makes me ask questions. Thanks Chris

Next time the wife and I go for coffee with it I will make note of temps and time it takes to do its thing. I thought it was normal until I read about other folks troubles with the delay in it lighting up. Thanks Chris

The wait to start light comes on and does it thing as usual when its above freezing. Truck starts normal and works great. If its colder than freezing, it will take a few extra seconds to light the light. It also takes longer for it to go off when its colder, I think this part is normal. Of course when its hot out the light is on and off right away. Do I have an issue with the ECM or am I just crazy (normal) No codes when scanned. I am not using it for a daily driver ...too darn cold. When the roads are nasty I will drive it cause It will get me there. Thanks Chris

You mean you guys don't just crawl up over the radiator and sit in there. I guess being 130 lbs has its benefits...now if I could just see over the steering wheel. Chris

When I bought my truck the Edge was already in it. However very little of it worked right. I took it out and re installed it proper. It had been just on velcro tape on the dash. Got the proper mount that it fits in and looks much better and dosen't wobble around now. Only issue is setting the levels. If on 5 its on 5 everywhere. I think Michael explained this to me, its a fault of the early ones. I usually drive with it on 0 most of the time. With the 100 sticks and the other doo dads it works nice and gets good fuel mileage. 5x5 and any pedal and I run out of road real quick...these trucks will easily out power their handiing ability. Would like a pic of yours if you get the new display. Regards Chris

I will get busted for this..but I needed a steering box for mine as well. Stealer couldn't even get 1. The good aftermarket ones are about 800 by the time they get here with shipping and core 150 and 150. Went to a salvage yard...they told me that a 1/2 ton box fits right on and without the weight of the cummins they dont wear out near as fast. 50 bucks later I had a tight box and no leaks. I did have to swap out pitman arms. The new box seems to be a tiny bit quicker ratio, not much though. I figgured for that price I could at least try it. Regards Chris

I am curious about the 4 inch over springs... are they from a diesel truck. If a gasser they will not come anywhere close to the 4 inches, maybe 2 though and that could be just about right. I am also interested in the 3rd gen track bar setup. I need to do this myself in the future. Pictures for us are everything. Regards Chris

Well so far I have puled the bottom cushions off and looked over the wiring. Same plug as my truck has, so all the power adjustment motors should work fine. Everything goes in the 1 single plug and then there are extra plugs going after that to run the heaters. Hopefully and I mean hopefully the plugs are in the dash for the switches. If not then things get nasty real fast. Regards Chris