gassernomore

Glad she's back up and runnin for you!

Welcome to the site! Don't know about the cost involved on a change over. But, lets look at what is the automatic doing now? With more info we might be able to tell you that there is a minor problem with your tranny.

With having a ScanGaugeII I would go ahead and check for codes as well. Codes don't always light up the CEL.

I believe you are well on the road to that. That is why we are here, plus the newbies that are showing up to join the forum.

Are you saying you lost 4-5 mpg's off the overhead? The overhead is very inaccurate. Mine has fluctuated all the way upto 99 mpg's. Stay with hand calculations or get a ScanGaugeII for mpg accuracy. You can check for codes as well. Key on, off, on, off, on (not starting it). Look at the odometer, write down any codes such as P...., Wait for it to say "done" twice. Repost the codes. Good Luck.

What kind of lift pump are you using? What is your fuel pressure?

Well, all I can say is I am GLAD you have taken the time to make this site! There are a great bunch of guys here because they all have 1 thing in common: they respect your site and your knowledge that you share! Keep up the good work!

Have you tried a RV parts dealer. I have been able to find a lot of accessories there.

Well said! Didn't know inlinediesel.com was back on line. That was the first sight I used when I lived in Southern Utah.

Not to rag on you personally. But, with 3 lift pumps in 1 year is why it is preached to buy one of the premium pumps. We all know money is tight but sometimes it is better to spend more at the start, then to go the cheap route. On a side note, flman you don't have to buy another pump now it is LIFETIME warrantied!

Plus having a 5 psi drop in pressure is telling you the pump is not able to keep up with the demand. Baby the skinny pedal until you get your upgrade!

My dad worked on Cummins big rigs all his life. I remember him telling me when I asked what one of those filter minders was for "he said for the truck drivers that wanted to ruin their engines early". Visual inspection is the best way to prevent problems.

My first time of changing the fuel filter I had about 1" of air in the can. Drained the batteries dead trying to start it. Now, I fill the cannister up until I know the filter has accepted all of the fuel it will hold. Turn the key over, and she purrs like a kitten. Trying to let the pump fill up the cannister and then trying to start it IMHO is going to play havoc on the VP. I would rather get some diesel on me than have to put on a new VP prematurely.

Look at it this way: stock pump, auto store pumps, DDRP, mechanical pump, FASS-AirDog-Raptor pumps. The further away from stock pump the longer it will last plus the better service you will get out of the VP. I suppose you could also add the particulates in the fuel into the mix as well. The more particulates and a poor fuel filter will mess up both pumps as well!

Let's just say we are all adults here. We appreciate what the other says to a question that we might have whether we like the answer or not. The replys that you get are civil and BEST of all backed with fact not ego!

Asphalt contrast looks good. The wall seems to have little contrast.

My drivers side battery has the same type of bolt on the battery. Must have been a OEM item.

Did you ever check the wires underneath the battery tray? Those are part of the Ecm wires.

I would check for codes on the 2000. Has the clutch ever been changed? With that many miles, could be time. What is the fuel pressure? What kind of lift pump? Cancel the k & N filter.

Don't spend more than $160 for an APPS. There is 1 member on the site that sells them. I have heard of guys spending close to $450 for one from the dealer.

Saw this on the web. For any of you that might have a 2010 truck: http://money.cnn.com/2010/01/18/autos/chrysler_recall/index.htm?section=money_latest&utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+rss%2Fmoney_latest+%28Latest+News%29

I have always heard it was a bad idea to mix oils. Not sure why. Sure someone else will chime in.

I believe Mike has a diagram on how to wire a shut off for the pump. Once it starts you flip it back on. I agree with what guesswho512 said

Looks like a leak. But, I think I would wash all of that off and then run it for a while and see. Plus by washing, if it is a leak you will have a better idea where it is coming from.

Everything you say I would have to agree on. I could have worded it differently. My whole point of writing the post was that someone else other than the manufacturer of the engine was saying that Cummins was wrong and that the correct pressure was lower than what was recommended. I believe everyone on this forum is running above 15 and below 20 psi because they understand the operation of the pump and when the return valve opens. Thanks for clarification on my post! It would be like me saying that Mike is wrong in the way he "counts what is a post on his forum!"