gassernomore

My truck has a factory security theft system. It was an option for our trucks. When you lock the doors with the key fob, the truck will not start without unlocking the system with the key fob. If you are inside the truck and lock the doors with the fob, it will crank, start, and then the engine shuts off. My question to those that are wiser than me, "has anyone tried to see exactly how this system works?" Does the system have to be activated with a down load?

Yes, you should! But, they don't have the air bags to fix your truck. They recommend not driving your vehicle until they get the parts. We keep getting them for my son's '06.This will take years for them to get enough replacement air bags to fix all of the vehicles that this recall involves!

That is what I was thinking! Just trying to cover all my bases. Thanks for the reply.

Not sure either. Don't see anything on the rocker arm.

First, It has been a long time since I have torn into an engine. I had to have the head on my atv milled. I wasn't paying attention when I pulled out the push rods. I was putting the head back on and noticed the push rod difference. The top of the push rod looks machined into a half circle. First question, is this normal? If so, which valve is it for? Second question, if it is not normal will the missing part fall directly into the oil pan? Before I tore it down the engine had no power, I could see puffs of smoke come out of the head and the block. Hence the milling. Trying to figure out if I need to rebuild or put a new engine into the atv. Thanks for the replies.

First, It has been a long time since I have torn into an engine. I had to have the head on my atv milled. I wasn't paying attention when I pulled out the push rods. I was putting the head back on and noticed the push rod difference. The top of the push rod looks machined into a half circle. First question, is this normal? If so, which valve is it for? Second question, if it is not normal will the missing part fall directly into the oil pan? Before I tore it down the engine had no power, I could see puffs of smoke come out of the head and the block. Hence the milling. Trying to figure out if I need to rebuild or put a new engine into the atv. Thanks for the replies.

Just had someone down the street that drove into their field. Sunk the Chevy truck to its axles. Then took the Suburban out and sunk it to its axles. Left them both in the field for a week till the ground dried out and now they are gone.

In my experience with my truck, a bad battery starts effecting the operation of the truck. Like Mike says, replace both batteries at the same time. EVEN if only 1 is bad!

It has been over 10 years that I have had a loan. My only bill is a life insurance policy.

Just filled up tonight for $1.79. Looked back at an old archived topic for prices. Over a $2 difference that some of us were paying a couple of years ago! Use to have to run the credit card twice to do a fill up because of $ limits on the pump. Not a problem now. I know we are all loving the low prices, but I can't stop to think that there must be a lot of oil workers out there that don't have a job now because the price of a barrel of oil.

Did you reattach the selector tubes on the drivers side of the unit? Has like 5 different tubes for the selector switch.

You can if your new heater core pipes are on swivels. But, if you have gone thru all of that work to get to that point, you would be further ahead to change the a/c evaporator and core. IMHO..

How is your radiator fluid level? Have you been adding fluid to it because it is lower? Might be your heater core and the green is anti freeze.

Not sure about mice. I haven't had any signs of them in the truck. No, the dash is in one piece!

Got the job done! No extra parts. Went for a drive and my selector switch didn't work. Then realized I hadn't hooked up the switch. Now, when I removed the a/c core this is what I found. I know the answer is going to be simple. But, I have to ask. How did all of that crap get there? The most important thing of all is that the dashboard is in one piece!

My folding support brace is what broke. I tried all sorts of wires to try to fix it. Lasted for a little wire and then it would break again. Finally used a shoe lace from a boot. Its a redneck fix, but I have a workable cup holder again!

It looks like it is time to replace my heater core. While I am in there I plan to change the A/C evaporator and the accumulator. Am I missing anything that should be replaced at this time? Looks like Napa, Auto Zone, and Rock Auto all have the same heater core a "Spectra Premium". Has anyone had any bad luck on the evaporator and the accumulator on a specific brand? I have watched a video on removal. Any tricks that I should be aware of? I know the blend door is important to position that properly. Any advice is appreciated!

Recently my oil factory gauge drops to zero, and the check gauges comes on and the warning buzzer goes off. This can happen 3x in 1/4 mile or once in 30 miles. Checked for codes, checked oil level, recent oil change about 1500 miles ago. I am thinking it is the oil pressure sender going bad. Just wondering if there is something I am missing. Did a search on the site and can't find anything on the oil pressure sender. I have been thinking about a 4th gauge on the pillar. This might be a good time for an oil pressure gauge! Any comments are appreciated.

I can have this same issue if the key fob gets pressed while the door is open. It will crank for ever and not start, To fix the problem, I take the key out of the ignition and press the unlock and then it fires up. First time it happened it drove me insane checking every thing out. Then dumb luck and figured the key fob was the problem.

Sorry! It was a resistor. I think that either the resistor was going bad, loose connection, or corrosion is the only thing I can think of.

First, I had the diode installed to the IAT sensor. Did this mod since it first came out. Had no problems with it until recently. The code just started the past couple of months. In the back of my mind I kept thinking it was related to the morning cold. Finally decided it was time to get rid of the engine code light from reappearing. Long story short, the wiring harness was in good shape. Figured the easiest way to see where the problem was to put it back to stock. Been fine since. Amazing that a 10 cent part can change everything!

187K on mine. 80k when I bought it 10yrs ago.

i have had this type of problem when the key fob auto lock button gets pressed before the key is put in the ignition. Engine cranks but will not start. Pull the key out of the ignition press the unlock button and insert the key back in and success!

$2.69 Regular and $2.99 Diesel just south of Portland. This is all good for now. But, it seems that every time prices go down, they go up 20 cents higher than they were before!

$3.39 Diesel & $2.96 for reg. We saw a 20 cent drop in diesel on Friday.