gassernomore

If you are talking about the fold down cup holder then good luck. If you use the holder frequently of opening and closing, you need something more flexible. I tried with picture wire, broke. Then 12 ga. electrical wire, broke. Finally ended up using a braided work boot shoe string.

If you plan on living on it, make sure that it is zoned for that. States have different zoning for virgin land.

Or is the pump wired directly off the battery with a manual switch to activate the pump? I wired directly to the battery with a switch. I am going to change it though. Can't remember who on the forum says to get power from the wiper fuse but that is what I am changing too. Due to some times forgetting to either turn the pump on or off. Wiring to the wipers will get you the momentary no pressure to the pump at start up.

I had a similar problem. Truck would start fine, run and then quit for no reason. I went thru all of the wiring. Wired to the old pump connections. Got a replacement warranty pump. Before I put the new one on, I wired the pump directly to the battery. Problem fixed! New pump still under the back seat! I was thinking that there was a problem with the ECM. Have not had a problem since the direct wire to the battery.

NAPA usually carries everything to do wires for our truck correctly. I pulled my old ones and gave them to the shop and after they were done, they looked like they were factory made. Spend the extra dollars now, because the first time it gets below freezing you will not be starting the truck with smaller wires.

I weigh in at #7255, that is with a tool box and me in the seat.

When was the last time your main fuel filter was changed? My FP drops a couple of psi when it is getting clogged.

I had a Chevy S-10 that the cable broke while I was going down a Nevada highway. Saw it in my rearview mirror bouncing all over the place! So, Jag1 you are right, it can break and go yonder!

Has your fuel filter been changed lately?

I am going to take a guess and say #51. There are 3 of them, right in a row.

Most of the trucks here are running 18 to 20 psi while cruising and 15 to 16 psi at WOT. Depending on what type of LP you have, it would be wise to adjust it upwards. The check valve in the VP opens up at 14.5 psi. This helps the pump to stay cool. When you are running pressures below that, you are slowly killing the pump.

My cables looked great. The ends were bad. Cut the plastic off of them and like Mike says they were corroded inside badly. Ended up going to the Napa electrical shop and had new ones made. Life has been good since!

When I first installed my Raptor, the pressure bounced around like yours. I went back thru all of the connections and tighten them. Been rock solid since. Pressure difference sounds like it is coming from the stock lines.

When the weather is colder, my FP is lower until the fuel has been recirculated and it thins out. Any other time it stays the same. Where are you taking your reading from? Before or after the fuel filter?

If you have an automatic, you need to put it in N if you are going to idle for an extended time. The fluid does recirculate in Park.

I thought I had a problem with my pump. Had to call the original owners. They charged me a core charge. Found out that the pump was not the problem. Now I have a spare under my seat! Don't know if it is a new one from the old owners or a new one from the new owners.

I believe the ABS sensor is the wires closest to the axle. It would be pointing towards the l. tire. The other wires plug in from the back side closest to the r. tire. Hope this helps, Mike.

I believe that the one Mike is showing is for 2000 or 2001. Mine does not have a hook up like this either. I think it is on the right side of the axle. There is a connection there with some electrical wires there. Bothe HeX and I have 99's.

Some possibilities, weak starter, poor battery connections, weak batteries, small air leak. I would go with an air leak if it sits for a couple of hours and you have a problem starting again. Have you checked for codes? This would help us all to give you some suggestions.

Instead of teflon tape, I use Permatex spray. You use a pray to prep the surface, then use the sealant. Made specifically for diesels. My psi drops while the grid heaters are on. As soon as they stop turning on and off the psi is steady.

You would have less of a psi drop if you have the same diameter hose from the tank to the vp, move the pump closer to the tank, then crank up the psi so it reads about 20 psi at idle.

When you say stock location, are you meaning right by the engine? Are you using the stock fuel filter? You also said you are using the stock fuel lines. Is that correct? If you are using the stock lines, the big line kit is not going to help you that much. The only way it would is if you run the same size line from the tank to the pumpand to the filter, then the big line kit! Correct me if I am wrong guys.

Check the fuel pump fuse in the pcm. Switch it with the trailer fuse, they are both 40 amps. Then see if you have fuel. Do you hear your pump turn on when you bump your starter?

Glad she's fixed!I think with the two batteries these starters will keep going for a while. But once they have had it then their not strong enough to get the compression needed. Lifetime warranties are the way to go with these trucks!

I had a similar problem a while back, except the code. Recharged batteries, replaced battery cables, checked fuel system and no luck. Tested the starter, Autozone put it on the machine and it promptly shut their machine down completely1 Put a new starter in and problem fixed. Long story short, you can be having battery problems because of other areas of the system. Good luck!