gassernomore

Yea, I am going to have to pull the hub for sure! Is the castle nut a 1 11/16"? any tricks for removal of the hub? I see one potential problem: the height of my rotor from surfaced deck to the top of the bolting surface is 1 1/4". The new one is 1". I am worried that the caliper is going to rub on the rim. What do you guys think?

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

I would have to go with the rural vote! Live about 1 hour south of Portland. I travel to two small towns to do all of my business. Everyone around here lets you merge with no problems and lets you in when you are pulling out into the street. The ONLY time I go to Portland is to the airport and that is usually at the slow times (on purpose!).

I was looking at getting one myself a while back. All of the reading that I did, I never heard of having to upgrade the tranny.

Here is something to consider on what temp. will do to the life of tranny fluid: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LIFE / TEMPERATURE RELATIONSHIP: Automatic transmission oil can provide up to 100,000 miles of service before oxidation requires replacement, at an operating temperature of 175° F. Above this temperature, the oil oxidation rate doubles with each 20° degrees F increase in oil temperature. See chart. [TABLE] [TR] [TD] DEGREES F [/TD] [TD=width: 156] MILES [/TD] [TD=width: 156] DEGREES F [/TD] [TD=width: 156] MILES [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 175 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 100,000 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 295 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 1,500 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 195 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 50,000 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 315 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 750 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 215 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 25,000 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 335 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 325 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 235 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 12,500 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 355 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 160 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 255 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 6,250 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 375 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 80 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 156] 275 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 3,125 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 395 [/TD] [TD=width: 156] 40 [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Note: Transmission oil and filter should always be changed more frequently when driving with heavy loads (RVs), typically at least every 25,000 mile intervals, since converter outlet temperatures then normally far exceed the ideal 175° F.

The best place for the tranny temp to be read is on the front line (drivers side). All other locations are giving you inaccurate readings. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5876-Tranny-Temp

The one you put on, is it the same as you took off? As far as HP ratings.

I would check for codes. Then bleed the injectors. What is your fp? How do you know this vp that you put in is good?

That is one question you will not find an answer for! There is no formula for longevity, all you can do is keep good fuel pressure, keep the pump lubed up, and keep ypur filters clean.

A machine flush is not recommended on our automatics. At least a fluid and filter change would be your best option as well a band adjustment. If you don't think it has never been done before then I would try to go on the side of caution. I would recommend getting a tranny temp gauge asap!

I would have to say it is the torque of the engine. I had a 68 Chevelle SS 396 in my younger days. The big block had a lot of torque. Mind did what you were describing.

I have seen a picture of a truck that was done this way. Can't remember if it was on CF or not. The truck actually looked pretty good with the accessories that it had on it.

I have a Magellan Roadmate. Works great. Color screen, turn by turn, and I can hear it with as loud as my engine is!

Doesn't look like the frame will be bent. More of just replacing sheet metal and paint. Good luck on the insurance games!

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/161-p0216-fuel-injection-pump-timing-failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/172-p0230-transfer-pump-circuit-out-of-range Not good news. You will need a VP along with the fuel pump that you are putting in. Check with the vendors on the site. They have some great products to help you get the truck back in top shape!

If there are 17 on a shelf somewhere they are keeping them a secret! I tried everyway I could on google to find one! Part #, casting #, description, you name it! That website that you listed never showed up in all of my parts searvhing! Thanks for the info! I will contact him when it settles down in the vineyard. Lots of work to do for the next month. Gotta get it done today cause the next day is to late!

That is the part #. How come you can find one and I check all over the web and can't find one? Are you sure it is still available?That is a little pricey for a 25+ year old tractor! I am looking at getting another tractor. After this accident, There were quite a few parts that were no longer available. Even minor ones that were just a gasket! Going to weigh all the options! Thanks for your help!

Well, no luck on the replacement for the steering valve. Had one junk yard call and say they had one then the next day they said they couldn't sell it separately! So I ended up using a piece of all thread and put 2 large couplers on it for strength and made the tractor into a manual steering tractor! Really not that bad of a fix!

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/176-p0341-camshaft-position-sensor-signal-missing Not knowing the exact codes I took a quess. These might help.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1777-ATF-4-Transmission-Fluid Read this thread in its entirety. Should answer all of your questions!

Are you changing the figure in the ScanGauge to match the pump figure everytime you fillup? Is your Scangauge calibrated right for the speed to match the truck?

If I am in city traffic I will see 160*. Cruising the highway, I am at 130*. My temp is read at the outlet port of the tranny. Seems like I have read on here that having the temp read at the pan is not that desirable. Can't remember the exact reason though. Someone else will correct me if I am wrong! Regardless, you are monitoring the temp so that is a plus for the life of the tranny!

You can replace just the pulley. AutoZone has them for about $25. Been a while since I did mine. Can't remember the exact price.

Got all of the parts ordered for my repair. Then the JD man calls and says the steering valve is no longer orderable! You cannot take it apart. It has an internal snap ring. Spent the day trying to find a part on the internet. Part was made by Cessna. The airplane manufacturer! No luck trying to get thru with Cessna suppliers. Contacted the local NAPA here and they are going to send the part tp Portland to see if they can find a similar part.

They had the part! Pricey! But, gotta have it! Emailed 7 junkyards that said they were parting out the same tractor. No one had one! --- Update to the previous post... Tried at the JD dealer and this website. Part is obsolete from the dealer. Thanks for the info.