CTcummins24V

https://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5479831453.html I found a 1500 nv3500 truck, which could be used for a 47re to manual swap, just the interior pieces and hopefully cross member. Are the frames the same on 2nd gens 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton? If I could grab this truck and then just find an nv4500, I think i could be in business. All the people around me want $3500 for a complete swap kit with a used, stock tranny and rusty parts.

I got a few of these t-shirts for my Dad and brothers. I wore it to the gym once and got some pretty mean stares but nobody said a word to me.

The first thing I did to my truck when I bought it was add an aftermarket fuel pump. It felt like a performance upgrade, so my truck was definitely not getting adequate fuel with the stock block mounted carter pump. If you want to keep your truck for a while, I'd say pony up the cash and get a quality lift pump that provides the needed pressure for vp44 cooling and lubrication, my 2 cents. Cheap insurance when a Fass or Fuel Boss is $600 and a new injection pump is $1200.

Not a driving, yet.

We had a thread earlier about resonators, they work. I switched from a 4" to a 5", both systems had mufflers. But the 5" was droned so bad, so I added an FTE resonator and it's back to normal loud cummins. Your picture is the muffler. MBRP has a straight through muffler, so it's loud! Either way, you should secure the rear of the exhaust so it's not bouncing around and causing excess stress on the closest rubber insulators.

Normal for me, at least. In the winter time, 3rd would not lock up for me until everything was warmed up a little bit. My hemi did the same thing, it would not go into overdrive until everything was warmed up. Don't know exactly why, but it's supposed to protect the transmission.

I've been using CDI, made by snap-on, for the last 3 years with no issues. Only complaint is the smaller ones don't click loudly.

I bet your turbo would overspeed and grenade before your stock bolts would stretch and head would lift. Also, I don't think the RV275s can provide enough fuel for that.

All fluids changed? Differentials? Transfer case? Coolant? Power steering fluid? It doesn't hurt to get aftermarket diff. covers, but they are $240 a piece. Last time I changed my rear diff. fluid I drilled a hole and welded a nut on the cover, cost a couple bucks for the nut and bolt and some beers for my buddy who has a welder. Keep a Timbo Apps in your truck for safety. Heavy duty 5 ply intercooler boots if you haven't already. Check vacuum lines, the rubber elbows likes to dry rot and plastic lines are brittle.

If you drive like a normal human being, towing or empty, the only time you should hit 40psi is accelerating hard on an on ramp on the highway. I ran a WH1C (HX35) 58/60/14cm non gated and never over speeded it, driving normally. Now I have a gated Super B and I haven't pushed it much past 35psi. I also haven't floored it with a load, just to keep temps down. Non gated will hit harder once it spools but you have to watch temperature and pressure if you're racing it. What are your temps towing? Bigger injectors in the future? Going to a bigger turbo with your current set-up, 3.55 gears, you will spool slower, but if you're running hot when towing then going bigger would make sense.

I'm skeptical of single disc torque converters. I don't think they can handle the torque from a cummins, there just isn't enough friction material/surface area. If your line pressures check out/valve body is good, and your overdrive unit was recently rebuilt, I would bet on your TC for the slipping issue.

The GM unit uses the upgraded borg warner solenoid. So either way you get the best solenoid, borg warner. The GM unit comes with a billet mount and I'm not sure what else that entails. That BD transducer is new. I haven't run across anyone using it yet.

Hehe over 20psi fuel pressure cruising down the road. FUEL BOSS!

No point in upgrading turbo if you're just throwing in RV275s. The stock HX can flow enough air and keep things cool enough for 40 HP injectors. MY WH1C (HX35 essentially) handled my 100s just fine. I ran the comp off or on 3x3 when hauling heavy with no heat issues. There might be some upgraded aftermarket turbos out there that might spool a little quicker or keep things slightly cooler but not worth the $1200 price tag. UNLESS, your local rebuilder wants an arm and a leg to rebuild your turbo and balance it. I think my Super B spools slower than any of the Holsets I had, but it flows more in the 1700-2200 rpm range and top end and keeps things cooler

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/47regovernorpressureservicekit2000up.aspx

Slightly off topic, but I was at a jobsite in Plymouth, MA last week, right next to a cemetery where the Pilgrims were buried. I ended up talking to superintendent of the job for over an hour in his trailer and he showed some things that I have to pass on. http://www.bestofbeck.com/wp/activism/saul-alinskys-12-rules-for-radicals https://www.freedomsphoenix.com/Letter-to-Editor.htm?EdNo=001&Info=0268265

Could have bought a whole motor for that....

What if the dodge is all torn apart in the garage for days???? He's got a dually, not the best for city driving.

Well, worn out seals at the least. Unless there's something hiding, the valve train is clean and when I pulled the oil pan, everything looked good under there. I did a poor job of installing the front crank seal, which is my culprit.

Time to hit the police auction and get a 350 crown vic with a big front end.

3rd lockup? Every time you take your foot off the gas pedal the torque converter unlocks. Then you get into the pedal again and 3rd locks up. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd lock up and 4th(locked). Lock up shouldn't "clunk" but you can hear and feel it.

I ran synthetic once it oil leakage was less than tolerable. Switched back to dino and all I get now is a couple drips. I'm done chasing oil leaks on this motor till it needs to be yanked out and rebuilt. These motors are known for having leakage at the pan gasket. There is a write up on TDR on where to use silicone/sealer. Back of the motor is a trouble spot where the pan meets the small crank cover. Driveshaft was balanced when you had it apart? When my rear diff started to go it would vibrate like crazy. The bearing was shot going into the pumpkin and the driveshaft was hopping around. Get it up on the lift and have someone give it some throttle and see what everything is doing.

Loosen the motor mounts and hoist the motor up a little bit. That's what I did when I replaced the pan gasket...and it still leaks! Stupid cross member!

Now you've got to try gated vs non-gated housings. I think my 14cm non gated pulled harder than my hy35 or wh1c gated 12cm.

Trey Gowdy zinged that b***h from the IRS