CTcummins24V

Get a batmowheel/wicked wheel for your hx35 if your stock one is dinged up. Could be a good experiment. Definitely try the injectors with your stock turbo before going bigger.

Shoot, I watched that video...see below. I already have the PRW flexplate and it is loose around the hub/pilot, the BD is tight.

Thanks HTH. @Dynamic Ever use PRW platinum series flexplate? BD flexplate had plenty of clearance with my DPC converter, I'm reading other forums that some people need an 1/8th bellhousing spacer for the correct torque converter to flexplate clearance. https://www.prw-usa.com/product/1835910-platinum-series-sfi-291-rated-steel-flexplate And yes, after inspecting my BD flexplate, there are some cracks on the welds. Not all the way through, but at least 2 welds have surface cracks...

No, that's just thread locker from 3 different torque converters.

@Dynamic John, I have the BD flexplate, do I need to reuse the factory steel washer? The directions I got say discard, but BDs new instructions on their website say reuse? Is that washer just used for load distribution? Anyone have any input of that steel washer?

Here's my 01, updated gear case/dowel. NO KDP

2010 steering stabilizer. I think other people have made the 2nd gen stabilizer work, but for 50 bucks, a 2010 stabilizer was a bolt on. Also, there may be clearance issues with the threaded ends in the adjusting sleeve.

I used the 2010 steering but I have aftermarket wheels with different back spacing.

Everything is tight? No fuel leaks? The first time I did injectors #6 fuel nut wasn't tight, spraying a little fuel and the truck loped. Tightened it up and the she ran smooth.

Well, I think I found the issue. Finally dropped the transmission and at the end of it I had 7 bolts. Some shade tree mechanic left a torque converter bolt stuck in between the flexplate and the engine/trans adapter from the last tranny r&r...idiot! I'm shipping my converter out to get restalled and have Phil from DPC inspect everything too. It has a 15 written on it, I'm guessing that means 15 blade. Everywhere I look a 15 blade is an ultra low stall, which is way to tight for my liking. Bangs into drive from park, creeps off the line with no throttle, really smokey and laggy off the line. My questions is, if the bolt was just sitting there loose on the engine/trans adapter, just above the crank, why was it only rattling under lockup? Any input?

I got timkens from rockauto, made in USA. Don'y have many miles on them so I can't say much.

No rust, yet, just missing paint from 200k miles and mud tires. Was trying to prevent rust and pitting. That whole side of the bed was replaced, crappy paint job whoever did it.

My guess is no. If a stock 47re/rh has a decent premature failure rate behind a cummins than a gasser 46re definitely can't hold up. My question is, are the cases the same? Just different internals?

Here's duplicolor rattle cans...in the sunlight you can definitely see the difference. White should be easy though

Looks like 5 VCO and 1 SAC nozzle.

I had the BD intake horn for a little bit, didn't do a darn thing. I went back to the stock one for ease of removal/installation.

I know it's already been stated, but my buddy just went through 2 sets of 50hp aftermarket injectors on his 2007 5.9, from a shop in Tennesse. Finally, the 3rd time he got genuine bosch bodies from BD in Canada and the truck is running fine now, and thousands of dollars later. Bosch bodies only...

Still in our prayers

As stated, some perf pipe/french drain or this...on a small scale, or all the above Wisconsin? All clay up there?

Those mpg numbers are pretty consistant with mine. When i was DD the dodge, it was averaging 16-17 mixed then 19-20 highway unloaded. Bone stock 19mpg highway, 19-20 highway with edge ez and 60hp injectors, all with 33s, 285-75r16

Check your wires from the alternator. Make sure they are wrapped with something and not touching anything. That helped my unlock issue once.

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/Extreme-High-Amp-Output-Dodge-Alternators-s/89.htm nations, mechman

2 stroke can gunk up injectors too if you don't tow/burn hot and long enough. I only had a couple thousand miles on this second set of injectors and only did short trips in the summer, no towing and they were gunked up. First set of injectors was my daily driver and towing for 15,000 miles and 2 stroke and they were fine when pulled.

If you're doing a triple disc, you'll want a billet input shaft and hd flexplate. There's an extra $1000. Look up firepunk.