CTcummins24V

3rd? That's it? Are you running the computer down to 0% oil life remaining?

Top gun customz has some cheaper tubular control arms

https://www.ekgdiesel.com/product/holset-hx35w-high-quality-turbo/

Thanks guys. I think I'll do 1 ton first load then try 2 tons next load. Beats an $80 delivery charge when stone is only $15/ton.

I'm running a 5" with a muffler and FTE resonator to keep drone down. I would guess my old 4" was louder, 5" is just deeper sounding.

http://dodgeram.info/2001/towing-charts.html This chart is saying max payload for my 01 long bed 2500 is right around 3,000lbs. I don't have time to drive an hour to steal my buddies dump trailer and was just going to put 2 tons of stone in the back of my truck. I'm debating just putting 1 ton in the back to be safe, since having my rear end rebuilt not too long ago. Any input? When I first got the truck I had 2 tons of stone dust in the back no issues, but that was pre rebuild. Gravel pit is less than 10 miles from my house.

Call DAP and ask about the BW K27. It reuses the holset downpipe connector I believe, so you can use your exhaust brake. Brand new. I've said this before, when I put the 60mm wheel and cover on my WH1C, it surged like crazy, exhaust couldn't keep. Then I upgraded to a 14cm exhaust housing, still surged. Then I ran a 58mm wheel and cover with 14cm housing, no surging, it ran fine. 14cm keeps cruising temps down, with some lag down low. Now, I have a super b, little laggy off the line, but good when cruising. I called thoroughbred diesel about the K27, they said the super b would be better, but that doesn't help you.

That's what I was running at one point. Same exhaust/turbine housing, except wastegate mounting, same exhaust wheel size as HX35. Compressor/intake wheel is a 56mm, I want to say HX35 is a 54mm.

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/turbochargerspartsandupgrades-4.aspx You're better off buying a new turbo or finding a craigslist special, from an overall cost stand point. But it can be fun to try different parts.

They definitely balanced out my tires. I had some decent tire cupping from my shock bushings settling/coming loose up front, and even after balancing again the truck had decent shake at highway speeds. Centramatics took care of that.

For tremendous improvement, NO, not on a 2nd gen. Everything on the front end of my truck is new, and it's still a boob jiggler. The ride doesn't compare to my 1/2 ton with independent front suspension. This^. A 3rd gen track bar will help, new bushings, shocks, coil springs, will help...bumpy roads are bumpy roads in a dodge. Best thing I did to smooth out vibrations was centramatics for the wheels.

Truck is at a local diesel shop. The sound is a loud rattle, sounds like metal on metal ringing, at lower rpms when the TC is locked only, I can hear it really loud with the windows down, going up hills are the worst. No sound in 1st, 2nd or 3rd not locked. Sound lessens with more rpms and boost. I'm thinking my fuel injectors are pissing, or providing too much fuel with not enough boost. Running a Super B turbo 57/65/14 currently Previously, I had 7x.009 VCO DFI injectors with edge comp, same issue, little smoke. Now I have 7x.009 SAC DAP injectors, super smokey, especially with the Quad XZT on 3. Did a boost leak test the other week, couldn't find much, adjusted the downpipe to HX40 flange for a better connection. I ran seafoam once last year and power service grey in the last few tanks to see what would happen, no change in sound. On Sunday, I dumped a bottle of red lubeguard in the tranny and 32oz of 2 stroke in the fuel tank. I drove it Monday to the shop, 30 min drive, no rattling at all. Ran half the trip with the Quad off, half on level 3, no rattling. I'm convinced, given my rising oil, smokey performance, that this is timing/injector rattle from too much fuel and not enough boost. Truck is not my DD so I'm not driving it. We'll see what the shop says, I'm thinking of down sizing to a 7x.008 SAC 40-50HP injector from Contagious Diesel. Also, during this time, I had my TC restalled and cleaned and inspected. I'm guessing if there were TC issues DPC(diesel performance converters) would have told me when they restalled it.

I'm on my 2nd set of injectors with this same sound and possible fuel in oil. Dropping my truck off at diesel shop this week.

Walmart near me carries mopar filters

Still chasing down the noise I'm hearing. Only have about 100 miles on this oil change. I drained a quart out and will drive it today to see if my oil level rises. Top sample is fresh rotella, bottom sample is from the oil pan. Oil still smells like fresh oil, can't smell diesel.

I have a bottle of red lubegard on the shelf, is it even worth trying? Currently running just NAPA ATF+4

Called the experts at Goerend, they want a video of the sound. Then Dave G will call me back with a diagnosis, and if it's the TC I will have Goerend rebuild it. In the meantime, I checked the valvetrain for anything obvious...nothing. And installed my new valve cover finally.

Anyone here use a gopro? and how much are they?

I had a TC bolt back out sitting in the case/adapter hitting the flex plate, fixed that. Used red loctite on everything, all bolts are tight, billet goerened flexplate installed. Still getting a rattling sound when the torque converter is locked under load. I think the noise is coming from the TC, not the motor, because it only makes noise in lock up. Hard acceleration in 1st 2nd and 3rd is noise free. Truck idles fine, no abnormal noise. After doing some reading, some cummins people complain about ATS torque converter rattle and early 7.3s too. Anyone ever heard of this? Converter is a DPC triple disc. Transmission shifts fine, no slipping to my knowledge. @Dynamic? Valvetrain?

Powder coating requires tire removal. Rims are then sand blasted, sometimes baked first to burn contaminants off, then powder coated with electrical current on the rim and baked.

Lift the axle under the pumkin, high, jack stand it, take the wheels off. Then you put a set of jack stands under the frame somewhere and use the jack to lift and lower the axle for removing springs. Might need some concrete blocks under the jack stands for the frame, I can't remember. I used 4 jacks stands for safety, had the wheels under the truck frame and always supported the axle with the jack.

Take the whole front end off, see Dripleys other thread. Wash the radiator with a cleaner and garden hose. Oil pan is also a common leak and timing case cover.

I've read some things about timbrens. I think they are made for someone who tows 24/7, otherwise you bounce off them during suspension articulation when unloaded.

A couple months too late for responses. I just replaced P tires with P tires. If I have to tow "heavier", I'll just use the dodge. Anything more than a couple thousand pounds and the 5.3 chevy with 3.08 gears can't handle it anyways.

Red loctite and 35 ft-lbs. I think I ended up somewhere around 45 though. Not sure if they're torque to yield, Rockauto has them really cheap, just need to search the part #. Also, check the flexplate holes for ovaling. Transmission rebuilt recently?