CTcummins24V

4" or 5" exhaust at least, those new trucks are too quiet

You just need to determine would axle you have

98-99HD steering vs 2010 steering is about the taper on the tie rod. You may have to bring one of your tie rods to the store and or buy one to compare. With the truck running, have someone turn the wheel back and forth and look at the tie rods while the steering is moving. If the tie rods are shot you'll see them popping or see the ball joint in the tie rod move before the linkage does.

Tires came in today, manufacture dates of 3816 and 4116, so september and october of 2016, so these tires are about 1.5 years old.

I didn't tighten the top nut enough for the rubber grommets on the shock mounts and it made the outer edges of my tires cup. Inside shoulder cupping sounds like ford syndrome where the top of the wheel is pointing in.

After some searching, i’m giving simple tire a try. I’ve read horror stories and good stories, we’ll see.

Anyone order tires online and have them shipped to your house? Down sides? Pep boys has a sale and I can probably save close to $200 after all is said and done, online purchase only. There is a store 45 minutes from my house so I could drive there if I have issues with the tires. Or should I just go to my local guy who is 5 minutes from my house? Pep boys has Cooper A/Ts or I go local and get Dynapro ATMs, both 265/70/17

I have EV1s, the only thing I don't like is running fuel up in the cab. The fitting at the back of the gauge is leaking in my truck. I would go EV2 if I could do it over.

I have rv275 size injectors with a quad xzt, its a good setup. However I may put my edge como back on. Stays cool, no smoke with the box off.

Call goerend. In theory it would be a torque converter and valve body upgrade for success. https://goerend.com/

Do it now while everything is apart

2010 “T” style steering is worth it. I will be down sizing from 285 to 265 tires this spring too. Mainly because of my automatic and 3.55 gears.

Chinese made. I have the PRW unit sitting in my shed brand new from Jegs. They dont have it on their website anymore. I couldnt rationalize having to drop my transmission again to replace it, or worse have to replace the TC or input shaft. Goerend unit all the way. Tight tolerances and they have 12 holes or 2 sets of holes for TC bolts incase they oval from poor installation. I did have to clean some slag off and I touched all the holes both TC and crank with a grinder to de-burr it.

Should be good. Cracked ring gear welds are the issue

Cracked welds from the factory

Who makes this one? Good fit/finish?

I think firepunk runs those. I ordered that same one, but the fit was sloppy on the TC hub, so I ended up with a goerend billet. Just don’t order a BD. https://shopfirepunk.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81_83&product_id=108

I already dropped them off, $300 for sand blasting and gloss black powder coat. Spoke with the guy at the machine shop for a while. He said they bake them at 375-400 degrees F for short time periods, like 10-15 minutes for pre bake and regular bake. Not hot or long enough for annealing the aluminum.

Small injectors and small turbo would be my vote for reliability and functionality. Look up some of @cajflynn posts about the super b/s300g.

Let’s hear it. Failure or bad customer service?

http://contagiousdiesel.com/7x-008-sac/ Here’s what i’m running, new bosch everything

Who knows the specs on 3rd gen wheels? Are they forged alloy? I assume so for strength, not low pressure cast like most aftermarket. I picked up a set from an ‘04, they are the machined version with some silver paint, not polished. I think the best way to clean them is to have them media blasted and powder coated. I’ve been reading up on powder coating with mixed messaging. Any input?

Lmc has them too

Stock injectors?

For oem engine stuff, cant beat local cummins or a performance diesel website. For other oem mopar stuff, it’s hit or miss. They always get you on shipping and you always pay top dollar. I’ve used dodgeparts, wholesalemopar etc.