CTcummins24V

A nice 65hp programmer like the quad xzt or edge ez is what really makes the truck much more driveable with the added timing=increased throttle response. Those coupled with rv275 injectors is all you "need" and is time tested and proven, that should put you around 300hp. Then again 100hp injectors with a 120hp box is nice too, but those definitely require a triple disc torque converter and a billet input shaft and other transmission goodies. What year is your truck? If it's a 2000-2002 with the Holset HY35 turbo, you'll need to upgrade if running larger injectors and a wire tap box. I ran both setups, both were great, but back to smaller numbers for ease on the drivetrain. Need vs want and budget. Either way an upgraded torque converter and valve body is needed for fueling modifications.

Dont I feel sheepish

I think that was a southern spelling of SOB. Im in the same boat with my new company truck. Been hearing for 2 months delivery was anyday. Yesterday I found out the order was accepted but never “full-filled”. And my current company truck needs work and my company won’t pay to fix it. And the crappy valve body that I paid a local shop to redo on the dodge took out another torque converter and possibly contaminated my rebuilt trans. I ordered a goerend vb and tc and now trying to find a decent used tranny to beef up or rebuild. Happy

What do you have for a transmission? 47re? Stick shift? What chip?

Verify what has been to the trans before adding 100hp injectors and a tuner. Or you’ll ne dropping the tranny for a rebuild and upgrade.

unloaded EGTs still seem a bit high

Stock 47re can’t handle those injectors

My recommendation, get Bosch bodies, new or reman. I've run new and reman bosch bodies, never had an issue

Either get a new aftermarket pan or weld it. I tried the plug, it leaked.

Take your truck for a drive on a 50mph road with a hill. You should be able to feel 2nd, 3rd and then 3rd lock up with OD off. You should take off when the TC locks. Then climb a hill in lock up.

Turbo is a little big for rv275s, no surprise it’s laggy in the lowers rpms. Also, with larger injectors, it could be smokey too till the turbo lights. Smokey with edge off? I think you said you already did a boost leak test? A low stall torque converter could also play a factor.

A slipping torque converter in lock up is noticeable. Grab slip grab slip grab slip. Truck shakes, feels like going over small bumps, especially going up hills.

Sounds like my truck when I had fuel pressure issues How many miles on the rig?

Transtar

Darker blue with machined cover is DPC. Baby blue is transtar/reman.

I just had this happen with my fuel boss. Add the fleetguard strainer pre fuel boss, GDP and genos both have them. Debris keeping the check valve from closing. Service the valve again. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ff5079/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts

Can you confirm its front end? My limited slip is messed up after a rebuild and it grabs when cornering.

I was just curious. I took off the super b and sold it. The holset is much better down low but seems to choke out around 30psi and higher rpms. Super b had bad low end but incredible mid range and ok top end. Truck is running great and clean with the holset and pulls strong up to 25psi while 30psi and above isn’t pushing any extra power.

@IBMobile, off topic, but what can you peg your boost to and what are your normal boost numbers cruising and towing? We have similar set ups, unloaded I can't hold sustain than 15psi and having trouble getting much over 30psi accelerating, with the comp in EZ mode.

https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1140-fleetguard-ff5079-3-8-inline-strainer.html?ref=category:114 strainer, I think just grabbing big stuff

Thank you @01cummins4ever!!! I took the bypass check valve off, no visible debris. Used a pick to compress the spring multiple times, blasted it with brake clean from both sides, compressed the spring a bunch more. No matter what she stayed between 15-18psi the whole drive! That valve clogging didn't even cross my mind. It all makes sense now. My fuel was pretty clean, just a nasty fuel filter with debris in the housing. Definitely installing that strainer pre fuel boss and bypass valve this weekend.

Good call! I’ll take apart the valve and check for debris first. Genos goodies came in today. Adding a fleetguard strainer pre fuel boss after this.

GDP fuel boss mechanical with isspro ev1 mechanical gauge, fuel boss belt and cogs etc are fine. Pressures have been fluctuating like crazy. Normal driving 16-18psi, letting off the throttle easy it stays. Hard acceleration and the fuel pressure starts dropping, trucks sputters, and then the fuel pressure would drop like crazy, sometimes to 0. Sometimes it would recover, sometimes not. I just checked the fuel filter fine, truck was idling and fuel pressure said 0...I have a fuel tank of fuel and I really don't want to drop this tank. What's the best way to drain a full tank? Could someone post a link?

NAPA had crc biocon, after 2 bottles and 1 night sitting, I now have 0 fuel pressure after a 15 minute drive. Fuel filter was spotless, so I can assume the sending unit screen is clogged?