CTcummins24V

I know little to nothing about wiring...Finally replacing my oem battery cables, need to attach new cable to existing ground on the passenger side with the grey plugs. I want to crimp and solder the connection, I already have rosin core solder wire, do I need to dip the ends in rosin flux to prevent corrosion? Or is the rosin core wire enough? I can’t seem to find rosin flux anywhere.

Triple disc!

I’ll let dynamic chime in but sure looks like a valve body issue.

The same reason I went with a Goerend valve body and then had someone who knows these trucks/trannies go through it, the 2nd time around.

Bolt on? Isn’t the OEM a sticker too?

Check everything first. Ball joint test, get 1 wheel off the ground a couple inches, stick a big pry bar under the tire and jack it back and fourth, listen for clunks. Then grab the wheel/tire at 12 and 6 and push/pull in and out for unit bearings/hubs. Then have someone start the truck and move the steering wheel back and fourth while you are looking at the tire rods to see if they are popping out.

Out of Northeast Ohio?

Highly recomend “T”. I think for your year truck it’s called HD steering.

@Marcus2000monster Are those 75s vco or sac? I ran 100hp vcos and they were clean and powerful. Then tried 100hp sacs and they were laggy and smokey.

No, I just gave the shop my old valve body, haven’t heard anything. New VB cured neck snapping shifts, no 3 to 2 downshift when slowing and torque converter lock/unlock and premature TC locking. Truck drives very similair to the oem tranny.

I finally got my truck back the other week and now have a Goerend valve body, and all is good. I also had someone who does dodge 4 speeds/cummins/diesels all day long do the work. Previous shop did a good job on the actual tranny, but fell short on the VB.

Happy to hear W-T made it out!

I have dynapros on my chevy and dodge. Great for everyday, not so great in 2wd in mud.

Aeroturbine is straight through, loud as hell, ran on my hemi, had to replace it with a flownaster to quiet things down. I’m currently running a 5” with straight through muffler and FTE resonator, sounds good. FTE eliminates drone and has spiral internals.

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/vehicle-specific-products/dodge-truck-steering/94-02-full-size-p-u/94-02-dodge-ram-2500-3500-4x4-xd-steering-gear-21918.html

@dripley I see some ADS pipe on site

Power steering trick works great, but need 2 people

I have 2 napa and 1 ac delco 3.5 ton jacks, they handle the dodge just fine. All are chinese made and non rebuildable. 1 napa jack failed just after the 2 year warranty. Ac delco has been going strong over 3 years now. Napa usually has them on sale for $199. I think hein werner is usa made

I dont have answers but I’m in the same boat, my truck has been at the shop for 2 months...

I just hit an individual wheel scale at our test site today, I’ll do the math later 1320 and 1430 for the rears 1720 and 1730 for the fronts that’s 6,200

Thanks guys. Don't know when I can hit the scales, so I'll run them around 35-40psi for now. Out to work yesterday, ran 50psi, way too bouncy. Ran 40psi on the way home, ran pretty good. My main concern is even tire wear.

GVWR 7200 lb Front GAWR 3950 lb Rear GAWR 3950 lb Tires 80 psi max, 3195 lb max load This comes out to 50 psi all around...

I just swapped the P275/55r20s for some LT275/70r17 Es on my 2018 chevy 1500 crew cab 4x4. Door sticker says run 35psi for the P tires, do I need to run higher pressures for the Es for daily driving? 35psi on the Ps wore well on my other 1/2 ton, while 40-42psi wore the centers out quicker. But 35psi with these Es makes the front tires squat like crazy so now I’m running 40-45psi and it still feels a little squishy...

@notlimah Running the switch and range today on the highway, no codes/issues and stays in v8 mode! We’ll see if running in 6th gear gains me some mpgs.