CTcummins24V

S300g or super b is a bit laggy for daily driving, in my opinion. I’m running one now. Cleans 100hp sticks up nicely once spooled though. Has great mid range with some load. It’s a 57/65/14.

Water pump leaks from the weep hole when the bearings go, it can be significant and will drip down the case. Any oil leaks before this?

Clean the "circular etching/raised area" on the caliper and flip the washer, make sure the washer is clean. I had that problem earlier this year.

I keep the oem carter pump disconnected with dummy plugs(corrosion resistance) and only hook it up for fuel filter priming. I had the stock system when I did the fuel boss so I’m no help. I deleted the hobbs switch because it wasn’t working right. 4-5 years running strong with the fuel boss.

I have Isspro EV1s. If I could do it over, I would get EV2s so you don't have to mess with running tubing into the cab, just wires.

https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm If alternator is the issue, this ^

One thing Phil Taylor(DPC) told me for his converter, he can make a 17 blade “stock stall” converter with a more efficient stator, I think that’s whats in my truck now. It ends up being a slightly lower than stock stall or just more efficient, I cant remember. I think low stall is something like a 15 blade which is noticably lower than stock. Depends on the builder.

Try oem mopar. Im not impressed with dorman

If an hx35, Disconnect the tube from the wastegate at the compressor and blow compressed air to it and see if the rod moves.

http://goerend.com/converter-theory/ Low stall=fluid coupling in lower rpms= your truck starts moving at idle without any throttle because fluid coupling is happening transferring power. I used to hold my foot hard on the brakes when stopped or I could push through a red light or stop sign. Stock stall=need some throttle and rpms for fluid coupling to happen to transfer power. In my experience, stock stall hangs gears longer and you need more rpms to get the truck moving off the line. For our trucks, this generates more heat in the TC/tranny but I like it better around town and driving empty. I hated low stall and driving empty. No engine load from weight and instant power transfer at low rpms made the truck a dog and smokey around town, hard to light my super b and stay smoke free. Loaded up, it was a different story, truck drove great. There's valve body and cable stuff involved too but a stock stall converter is more street/empty friendly, for modified trucks.

That metallic sound in lockup is the spring dampers in the converter? I had a low stall with that terrible sound in 3rd lockup at low rpms. Now I have a stock stall and Its much better. Still fight it sometimes though

Yes, a bagger. Running the blades and bagger puts more load on it for sure. When the original motor was on its way out, driving was fine, but engaging the blades was pushing oil out the drain tube. I replaced the head gasket, but it was still pressurizing the crankcase, rings must be shot, I could still see the cross hatching in the bore. So, should I just drive it at first, or actually mow, just not at full speed?

10+ year old 21hp briggs and stratton in the craftsman finally took a dump last weekend. Just ordered a 19hp B&S motor, do I need to break this motor in first and do I need any special oil? B&S website says run 30 weight, take it easy for 5 hrs, then change oil with more 30 weight and run it normally. Any input?

Its good to have a 2nd vehicle, just in case...

I have the same thing. Both my oil pan and rear main are leaking. Wind blows it when you're driving.

Noooo. You said the word

Mine came loose once. They need to be retorqued when the wheel is installed on the ground.

Open them up and look first

Cold thick fluid and a low stall converter can cause stalling

Do this eveytime hot or cold? How long have you had the built trans? My truck would do that when it was cold with a tight converter. Wasn't an issue when the fluid was warm. Die from park to drive or park to reverse.

I vote 2010 "T" style steering. I replaced everything with moog "Y" style, it was sloppy in less than 20k miles. My 2 cents

Mechanic told me they updated the mopar one and the other brands havent caught up yet. I'm running a monroe from napa on the 2nd gen w/2010 steering w/no issues.

Nice @dripley! We've got a sand filter going in now.

I'm the site guy for StormTech chambers in New England. Work with the contractor to make sure they install the systems correctly and don't crush them. Huge industrial park going in. One of many systems, I think they end up tying into some swale and then a creek, after water quality treatment in our system.

Not a pretty outdoor picture, but my dodge on the jobsite.