CTcummins24V

Gillette diesel has wastegates too, aftermarket adjustable. Just need to know if it's the short or long stlye, mounted to the compressor housing or a bracket off the exhaust housing.

https://puredieselpower.com/#/product/17147 http://contagiousdiesel.com/7x-008-sac/

Made in India

I had that same problem with my 15 blade low stall triple disc from DPC, metallic sound in lockup only with lower rpms. I had Phil restall mine to stock stall 17 blade, it helped. Transmission hangs gears longer which I like. Then I swapped out my 100hp SACs for 50hp SACs and the metallic sound in lockup is much less. Keeping the rpms up helps a lot. So now with a higher stall converter and smaller injectors I can put my foot in the throttle to keep rpms and turbo flow up, smoke is very minimal and the truck shifts in higher rpms so lockup doesnt bog everything.

That's technical. Belive it or not, going from straight pipe to adding a muffler, I did notice a slight restriction. That was a bone stock truck, other than a fuel boss lift pump. Going from a 4" to a 5", then adding a resonator, I couldn't tell any difference.

My old 4" MBRP T409 stainless had good surface rust after only 2 New England winters. The T304 stainless tip was rust free, just grimey. I ran that straight piped for a month or two, set off every car alarm in the parking garage at school. Muffler is definitely needed in my opinion, even it's a straight through. T409 vs T304 price difference is like $400-500 vs over $700.

Finally happy again with my injectors and power. Many years ago, ran DAP +60hp VCO injectors, they were pretty clean usable. Then some DFI 7x.009 +100hp VCOs, clean and powerful. Then DAP 7x.009 SACs, smokey and laggy with the super b, tuner or no tuner. Now I have about 50 miles on some Contageous 7x.008 RV275 stlye +50hp SACs, very clean and powerful with no tuner, slight haze romping on it with tuner off, and only a touch of smoke till boost builds with the tuner on. Super b is definitely more laggy than the holsets, but burns clean with rpms. Smaller injectors with the tuner off is streetable down low, and then turn the quadzilla xzt after you get rolling. Moral of the story, I now have usable low end and mid range, where I spend most of my time, with my current set up. Super B 57/65/14, +50hp SACs and quadzilla xzt. I am officially down messing with this truck and will do maintenace only now.

Mmmm only after hours of frustration and doing things multiple times and some wasted money

Your write up says 89in lbs for the hold down, then insert cross over tube. So does the service manual

Have covercraft carhartts in the dodge and my daily driver silverado. Silverado was seen a couple years, 70k+ miles and frequent in and out of the truck and still holding up well. They fit well and are washable. They are like carhartt jeans so they aren't luxury but work just fine. Autoanything has them, you can usually get a 15% or 20% off coupon code too.

Check ball joints

oem mopar from Genos?

It's just the switch that turns the brake lights on. I went through 2 faulty switches from Oriellys, then ordered a standard motor products from rockauto, which is the oem manufacturer I think.

Oem fits better and lasts longer for parts like that, in my experience. Even the protective coatings against rust and corrosion.

I did a reman from NAPA, from a cost stand point better off rebuilding with a new seal kit unless time is a big issue, sounds like it might be. You have to do some disassembly of the old unit anyways. You need to take the mounting bracket to the master cylinder off, the spring and star/hex washer thingy and reuse on the reman unit. Also, rod lengths differ, mine did from the reman. You might need to replace the brake switch under the brake pedal for the different rod lengths and adjust it. Once adjusted they can't be readjusted.

BHAF-big honkin air filter Edge EZ 4" exhaust would be nice but not necessary Then some Bosch RV275 injectors

4-5 years, on 25k miles. Downside is no extra filtration other than the stock fuel filter and will only work with oem harmonic damper, no aftermarket viscous damper.

The first 2 sets out of tennesse, I want to say Swamps but not positive. Then he went through BD.

My buddy went through that on his early 07. 2 sets of reman/aftermarket then finally a set of new bosch to make it right.

You can, with a hobbs switch. Hobbs switch only powers on when fuel pressure dips below a certain psi. Right now I have the carter pump disconnected, just running the fuel boss. Only connect the stock carter pump for filling the fuel filter housing during a filter change for me.

Same here, 16-17psi at idle, dips a for quick second under acceleration, then 17-18 with some rpms. Same here, 16-17psi at idle, dips a for quick second under acceleration, then 17-18 with some rpms.

Shot I believe. They arent cheap

centramatics, they work. Have on my truck now, no weights.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ram,2011,2500,6.7l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1447852,steering,tie+rod+assembly+(inner+&+outer),7425 I used oem mopar but moog does have the whole assembly

I know that one. Our conversation usually ends in "just sell it"