CTcummins24V

I did an ATS 3 piece manifold, didn't add anything. Have a BD intake horn sitting in my basement, it didn't add anything and was a pain to install and remove, so the stock horn went back on for ease of future work. No real improvements on my slightly modified truck.

Call a tranny place, AKA Goerend. They'll probably tell you drive it stock till it dies, then rebuild with goodies, if it's the origianl tranny with 220k on it.

How many miles on the trans? Oem torque converter?

All the things you mentioned can be done without dropping the tranny, except for the upgraded lever, strap and anchor. At minimum, band adjustment and borg warner solenoid. Downside to the shift kit, once you drill holes and file things on the valve body, it won't be usable as a core to a transmission shop if your transmission needs an overhaul. http://goerend.com/dodge/valve-bodies/ Everything on this page.

NAPA atf+4

I think the rear hub on our trucks sticks out too far and would hit the built in hub cap on the newer wheels. Might need wheel spacers to fit them. Only speculation, I thinks cumminsforum has a thread on it.

https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2002Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=50 Try quad4x4 online

Does this still mean your vulcan 60hp injectors are toast?

Did you get 4th gen mirrors that fit 4th gens or 4th gen mirrors that fit 2nd gens?

Hijack, I was reading turbo diesel register, for automic guys towing, they said you should have an injector turbo setup where you can hold the pedal to floor To keep line pressure up on the tranny and have managble egts. Injectors are only $400-$500 and can always be upgraded and used ones sold.

Daily driving/towing or sled pulling? What are you egts during a run?

If you can wait, look online for sales on 3 piece manifolds. They don't add power or performance, but a lot less prone to cracking. I got a 3 piece ATS manifold for under $300 a couple years ago when XDP had a sale.

I'm interested in the smoke and heat on these ones. Mike's got the bug, RVs to 60s to 75SACs.

Welcome! Great to have another experienced mind here!

@klcammie Drive big rigs correct? Hear anything on new oils?

Want vs need. With 60hp injectors, WH1C turbo(hx35) and edge ez, my truck drove great! Throttle response and driveability was so much better than stock. Then I went 100hp VCOs and edge comp. Now I have 100hp SACs, super b turbo and quadzilla xzt, and its really smokey riding empty when I drop the hammer, haven't towed with the setup yet. I could have saved some money just keeping the original setup, it's all I needed for what I do with the truck, plenty of power for towing and fun. Bit by the diesel bug. If you can keep egts down with 100s or 150s and a bigger turbo without losing everyday functional driving and towing, great, if not, a smaller setup is more than enough. I won't let my wife drive my truck now with the current setup. Billet input and triple disc? I wouldn't get an ultra low stall converter with any setup. Stock stall or just lower. You could also call/email firepunk transmissions out of Ohio for some TC stall advice or Georend for extra input.

http://rotella.shell.com/products/pc-11.html?gclid=CJSz-JqS-tICFQyOaQodkW0Lkg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Preference. Once the turbo lights, it's great. Just can't have a heavy foot off the line or I'd black out the intersection. CSM touched on this, with the tighter/lower stall converters, you get fluid coupling and power transfer in low rpms, so the turbo is slower to spool.

Ran a 56 and 58mm wheel and cover on a Holset WH1C(old HX35), and 12cm and 14cm turbine housings, as it sits now in a box 58/60/14. Now I have a super b s300 57/65/14, which has more lag than the Holset.

I like stock stall better, my preference. I had a 15 blade low stall, too laggy and smokey off the line. http://goerend.com/goerend-triple-disc-torque-converter-5-9l-cummins-1994-2007/

Ask Jon if he drills a hole in the input shaft for added flow/lube, if you could. And what stall and blade converter you go with.

Any surging? I did the 60mm upgrade to a WH1C w/14cm non gated exhaust housing and it surged like crazy with heavy throttle. Surged w/12cm gated too.

Power adders are out of the question till the transmission is upgraded, pulling that much weight behind you. Valve body work, billet torque converter, upgraded servos/piston and lever should get you there if your tranny is in good order already.

Might be tough to find the good parts locally, not to mention price. Make sure you get oem mopar transducer and upgraded borg warner solenoid. Best bet is to order online, unless you can find locally, my 2 cents.

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/47regovernorpressureservicekit2000up.aspx Yes, easy enough, just messy if you have the stock tranny pan without a drain plug.