CTcummins24V

Woood! Breaking in that new trailer. You burn softwood out there?

2 rubber hose connections with band clamps on the back of the pump. The upper one is the return from the gear box where the most pressure and fluid will come from. Unhook at least that one or both, you might have to do a vertical slice on the hoses to get them off the pump and then cut the hoses to length, there should be enough hose. There is a hard line at the bottom of the pump but you don't need to touch that. Disconnect line(s) and put in funnel to bucket or drain pan, open cap, fill to top with ps fluid, start engine, fluid will come spitting out of gear box hose, fill reservoir as it drops, when fluid spitting out of hose is clean and fresh, turn off truck and reassemble. Refill reservoir and turn the wheel lock to lock while truck is running to purge air...front tires in the air off the ground.

extra vp44?! Whoa!...expensive tool box. I carry... -just about every fluid, 1 gallon of 15w-40, 2 quarts of atf, 2 quarts ps fluid, 1 gallon+ 2 cycle, maybe a quart of gear oil -ratchet/wrench set, screwdrivers and what not, extension chord -ratchet straps and bungies -Timbo APPS -bottle jack and some junks of 2x4s, a piece of metal pipe (cheater bar/hit someone bar) -used to be a carpenter so my tool belt and 5 gallon bucket of random bars and pliers, level, cordless tools, radio, canvas drop cloths -blue shop towels, gloves -OBDII reader, tire pressure gauge, volt meter -various knives, a hatchet (under my front seat), flash light -my ball(s) and hitch so it doesn't get stolen -30' recovery strap (18,000 lb), 20' grade 70 chain with clevis hooks (12,000 lb), jumper cables -maybe most importantly- some length of 1/8" and 3/16" ID vacuum line, some rubber elbows and connections dry rotted and I was stranded in the mud/wet grass without 4 wheel drive

$80/month

Feel that extra air? Clean up those 100 hp sticks? Spooling? Egts?

*sodium chloride

Write up! Pictures too haha

The northeast uses the green stuff, which eats away metal faster than regular calcium chloride.

one of the many evils of the northeast...RUST!

The solution is just to get a stick shift. Even some of these super built trannies break. There definitely is a price difference in the used truck market for a manual dodge, and that's the only reason I got an automatic, 5/6 speeds were 2-3k more that autos, in my online searches. Something/s are more stout in the manuals. Shorter input shaft, less torque, less week points?

Ya, it would be nice for peace of mind to upgrade, but I just had my rear-end rebuilt 2 months and this torque converter upgrade isn't free either. Looks like I'll be running by comp on a lower setting for a while

I had *** City State Park back in CT...named after the historic *** family

Is anyone here running a triple disc torque converter with stock flex plate and stock input? My after market billet single disc torque converter is slipping and I'm upgrading to a triple disc, under warranty . Do I have to worry about snapping or warping under normal driving conditions and light towing?

Do it in an enclosed area, some springs and pins may go flying!

When are you getting a 3rd gen Michael?

Haaaa, I thought I had dodge issues. Well, if I could afford it, I would have another 2nd gen-manual, and a 3rd gen manual, maybe two 3rd gens, a regular cab and a quad cab. But, getting out of this rental house and into a travel trailer for next year is more important, so I might need some advice next spring on what to get.

I'm interested in the quality and if it really does improve handling

I lied, abs/brake light is back on and off again

Sounds like a typical 2nd gen to me. Nice, clean stock trucks are hard to find and not cheap.

I seem to remember there being more Ohio members, more members in general. It seems like there's been a bit if a decline lately.

Bolts right up. Good idea to get a gasket set too, or at least the gasket for the oil return line. http://www.gillettdiesel.com/gdsh1hxgasketset.aspx

Local cummins power store had some junk harnesses kickin around for free

There's a sled pull that night in Springfield, a little west of Columbus, which is on my schedule. I'm in the north west, another guy here is in the south west part of Ohio.

When I installed my fuel boss I had the same problem. Rough idle, almost stalling, 1690 code, flukey tac and dead pedal. I took the hobbs switch out of the loop and it was fine! The hobbs switch kept cycling the stock lift pump on and off with the fuel boss running. I've been running it with dumby plugs on the carter pump since with no issues! There's a lift pump code stored in the computer but no dash light.

Like mulcher and diesel4life said, the HY to HX upgrade really does help cool things down when injectors and programmers are thrown in the mix. With an HY35 and 60 hp injectors alone I could raise my coolant temperature to about 200 degrees, and I had a 180 t-stat... that was just merging onto the highway unloaded. For $150ish a used HX will handle added power. I had a WH1C locally so that's what I upgraded to.