CTcummins24V

I THINK (not sure) DAPs are rated at the wheels and RV275s are rated at the crank. rseabur, where in Ohio are you? I just moved to Findlay from Connecticut. Here is a pic of my stock injectors with 202k miles on them vs. DAP 60s. I believe they are stock bosch bodies, stock bosch nozzle extrude honed for more flow, and the internals are replaced with new only if they are worn.

If it's stock it's definitely the 12cm. The number is stamped inside the turbine housing, just inside the flange so you'd have to take to the turbo off to see, or unbolt it at the turbo to manifold connection and try to peek in. I did the HY to HX swap and there wasn't a huge difference but it spooled slightly slower and gave a little more top end, just like you said. I wouldn't switch back especially if you're towing or pushing it, not to mention you have the edge JWA. And, if you do injectors the HY will get toasty warm. I have switched my 12cm turbine housing to a 14cm and I actually think it spools faster, but it's non-gated and I have +60 HP injectors. Injectors are fun and functional, I would do them!

When I bought my truck it had ATF in the PS reservoir and the seal inside the cab (brake booster) was leaking by the pedal and onto my floor mat. I flushed it and switched to PS fluid and it hasn't leaked since.

Was the actual bearing bad or just the rubber was bad?

That's exactly what I was thinking, upgrade to a dana 80 maybe too. I've been peaking around on craigslist and people are asking obscene amounts for a used unit, like $1200. Shop quoted me $1400 for everything, ring and pinion and bearings.

I dropped it off at the shop...the rear end needs to be rebuilt. The bearings are shot in the diff, and the slip yoke and drive shaft are bouncing around causing my drive line vibration...here come's another $1000 bill

I can push the drive shaft on either side of center support bearing almost 1/2" up, the rubber seems shot. Time for a new center support?

I believe 1200 is safe and anything higher than 1200 for a duration of time can lead to trouble. The "super b" style turbo is supposed to be a great towing turbo, handle up to 425 HP, will hit 1200 but won't got over, the HE351 from 3rd gens are supposed to be similar performance wise. There are a couple threads on injectors and turbo swaps, only about a month old where we were just talking about this.

Took this from a Geno's article: Flaw: Driveline vibration based on road speed. Fix: It sounds like a worn out driveshaft universal joint or unbalanced shaft, but may also be caused by a bad carrier bearing or bearing support in a two-piece driveshaft system. The bearing cannot be re-lubricated by the owner, and the entire sealed carrier bearing assembly must be replaced. This is presently a Dodge-only part. A heavy load in the lower gears will cause driveline windup as well, leading to vibration that lessens with road speed or less torque applied to the axle. On Third Generation trucks, the driveline alignment should be checked as well.

What's the consensus?

Front driveshaft?

I can't remember exactly but it's something like 2-4 quarts. I'm leaning towards 4 because i think i dumped in 2, then you wait for the clutch material to absorb some fluid, then top it off. Or it spills out when you turn it upright.

I'm new to sumps, is the beans sump mounted underneath the tank or on top? Last week was the first time I let the fuel gauge get below 1/8 tank and it starting sputtering as I pulled into the gas station. The sump is supposed to eliminate air getting sucked up right?

When did you replace the sensor? I just did mine within the last month or so because I had pressure with the key on as well, and then once running the needle stayed around 60-70 the entire time. I also had high and low voltage codes for the sensor. Is the dash showing codes or any stored in the ecm/pcm? For me, a new sensor fixed the gauge issues immediately, but both codes took over 1,000 miles of driving to clear themselves.

A bunch of us are running DAP injectors. I got the 60s, they're good for power and economy, if you play nice. TFaoro just installed DAP 100s the other week. I know someone else here has the 75s. Good injectors, good price, bosch bodies...can't beat the price and they're flow matched and balanced.

I have the shimmy too and I just replaced my shocks last fall. We all have something in common too which I haven't ruled out yet, 47RE. In a built tranny the line pressure is less under light throttle, so the vibrations could be TC slippage. Although, mine feels like the front end is going up and down quickly like the coil springs have lost their stiffness and shocks don't dampen it.

youtube fleece holset cheetah turbos for cummins, they are really loud and probably annoying for a daily driver.

Thanks guys. Hopefully ill have time this weekend yo follow Michael's write up

I pulled a code p0122 throttle position sensor low. Adjust the tps to the voltage set on the back of it?

I can't see there being much of a difference either, but my mechanic said oem or NAPA brand. The first time I did mine I used a mopar one, then the second time I used one from cascade tranny parts website and the guy who rebuilt my tranny said he didn't like it, whatever that means...

I've got my fuel boss set up like the MITUSA, no hobbs switch. It works great but there's a half second till the pump really kicks in. For filter changes I just take out the dummy plugs on the carter pump and harness and reconnect them and bump the starter a whole bunch of times. I believe the MITUSA is the original and the other pumps are based off of it.

Shoot, tranny was just rebuilt in january, not even 3,000 miles on it since. Haven't had any issues since this. I believe they put a DNJ extreme solenoid in it, amsoil fluid (my mechanic said it lasts longer that other stuff, he runs it in his 5.9 and his dads 6.7). What next? Stop in to see the tranny guys? On a side note, the tranny shifts so early when on light throttle, like at 1100 rpm, it will not hold 1st or 2nd, like in a parking lot taking turns it's in 3rd or 2nd gear dogging it at 15 mph. On decent throttle, it shifts at 1600-1800 and I've adjusted the linkage, it only effects the shift points when on throttle. Tranny Build- Billet single disc rated for 500 HP (DPC), Raybestos Blues, upgraded planetary, stock input shaft, etc. Can't tell if the TC is slipping either because the roads are so bad right now and I have "rough riding ranchos"

The other day I broke the handle off on my ATF dipstick and had to cover the fill tube with aluminum foil till a new stick comes in on Tuesday. Since covering the tube with a plastic bag then foil and zip tying so it's almost air tight and isn't going to fall off the transmission is shuttle shifting between 3rd and 3rd lock (OD off, around town driving under 50mph). Does the fill tube vent transmission pressure gas? And could this cause my shuttle shift? Or should I catch up on the lock/unlock topic?

PM mopar1973man

For diesels, dana 70's on 2500 automatics, I think 2500 manuals and all 3500s got dana 80's, in relation to 4wd, I'm guessing it's the same for 2wd.