TFaoro

Smarty has different timing so that's why you're seeing the better numbers with it. Tires make a big difference, and older injectors can make a huge difference. I'm not sure how old your injectors are though.

It's in the custom settings then. This is what I would do. Correct me if I'm wrong Nick. Timing 0 Timing scaling 100 Can and pump max 100 Can min 10-20 Pump min 30-40 Stretch 1400 boost scaling between 25 and 30 That'll take the surge out if it's timing related. If the surge stops, slowly increase the timing until it starts to surge a bit then back it back off.

Let's do it

To me, YES.... but what the hell do I know Honestly, they do. Amazing what 3* difference really is.

I though so as well, but all research is pointing in the direction of Nick's numbers being correct. You're correct. They were 13.5-14 depending on the year. Sending you a PM.

@CSM Here ya go I guess we should both request a refund ASAP

@Mopar1973Man, @Me78569 I helped all I could

Still sounds high..... So when I had it set to 8* in theory cruise state would be 24-27? @AH64ID do you have any thoughts on this? You probably know more than the rest of us.

I've never had a Craftsman or Snap-on fail. Price can be rough though

Air hammer works wonders.....

Well.... what do you think is a good starting point?

Might have to throw out the ECM's timing all together and use the quad alone with the data it has to build a map. Is that possible? I know you guys say it has a "good" map already, but in reality it does not for every setup.

Way I see it there's no way for it to take wiretap fueling into the load calc directly. It's just holding a solenoid open. It may inadvertently do it through boost and other things though. I do think it is a viable tuning variable though, especially since what we are trying to improve most is the spool and cruising timing.

I'm not sure I see a good reasoning behind this.... The tape isn't hard to work with??? Wrap it around 3 times the right direction. You shouldn't ever be turning threads backwards.... if you've gone too far with pipe threads it usually breaks one of the fittings. Other than that I've never though I've gone "too far" on tightening one. Only had teflon tape in my dad's shop for the 22 years I've been alive and never had a problem where I couldn't get something to seal. In the end though, use what you're comfortable with I like my cheap tape

Good question.... what are you wanting to do with load or parameters?

Agreed. Did you buy used? I thought they had a 1yr warranty. I would call and get ahold of Jacob. Tell them he's the only one you want to talk to. Who were you directed to?

@Mopar1973Man you can NOT blame an injector alone for morning hard starts just because you swapped yours in. There could have been a slightly loose line, an O ring not seated right, etc. I do believe DAP makes a good product. I'd be calling Jacob and telling him exactly what happened with the set you have. He might be able to help with what went wrong and where. He might even take in the old ones just to figure out what's wrong and discount another set. I'm betting there are literally thousands of his injectors out there and you rarely hear about an issue.

That's correct. I think @Hawkez is talking about a different style of bolt that goes into the vp44 entirely. Vulcan performance has a "big line" that runs between the filter and VP that should flow more fuel.

All of them CAN be reliable, depending on what you do. If you plan on deleting the emissions garbage, you shouldn't have many issues with the engine other than injectors. Make sure you have a better filtration system than stock. It's the only way to prolong the life of the injectors. Transmission wise, are you looking at auto or manual? With an auto, you have to be careful with the programmer so you don't tear up the internals. Manual, you'll probably have to change the clutch out eventually. The DMF isn't known for holding power well. 3rd or 4th gen.... I really don't think it matters if you're deleting. You'll have the same motor either way and the emissions will be gone.

I just tighten mine snug. The sealing washers have rubber, so it doesn't take much to make them seal.

I always have been impressed with the stock capabilities, but you have to know the limits. Big sway bars and stiff suspension aren't a good combination for trying to flex the crap out of it.

Can I ask why?

I think you were too used to playing with the firehose injectors

If the big boss doesn't plug into the data link, you should be just fine stacking them. The flashpaq should control timing and low end fueling while the banks takes over on the mid to high end.

Since you understand how relays work and how they are wired, I would simply say the hot from the ECM should be on one side of the relay, and the other wire should be on the ground. You already know how the other 2 wires are, so you should be good.