MnTom

Your brakes won't have anything to do with the seal. I have seen others leak shortly after a seal was put in and it seems to be the right side too. I don't know what is up with that, but when I replaced mine it has stayed dry. Now I went and jixed myself for a seal problem just like the input shaft after I said mine was doing good........

No, actually he had a shop and was wearing shorts when I picked up the truck! He does transmission work for a living. He did telll me that for 140k miles my tranny was in pretty decent shape. Then when I called him 1300 miles later broke down he started to try to chew my a$$ for being cheap. I am going to find out what happened before I decide which route to take.

Yea, the billet is stronger, but what about the front drum? A billet shaft would not have helped me......

My recommendation is to pull the head and physically look at the pistons and cylinders. You possibly could have had an injector fail and burn a piston too. You won't know until you look.

Yep, that's my theme song.........

I have absolutely no problem with someone having guns in their vehicles (as long as they KNOW how and when to use them), but I guess US Steel just don't look at it the same way I do. I know of a guy that got banned for life because he had a spent .22 round in the console of his truck. No weapon, just the spent round.

Yea.... But, the guy I am going to take it to won't be able to look at it until next Wednesday so it will be another week that my truck is down.

I don't know what I am going to do yet. I am going to have a shop go over it with me standing there and see what is found.

What really pissed me off is the fact the transmission had 140k miles on it and had very little wear and now after being rebuilt 1300 miles ago and I am getting my butt chewed by the guy who screwed it up because I don't know how to run an auto?

You are lucky. The mines I used to go to if they looked in the truck and saw even a spent casing without any fire arm or even a smashed up beer can in the bed or trunk you were banned for life there and all the owner's other mines too.

Yea, I agree that what I am seeing is not typical. The input letting go at about 140k miles, well if you search the interwebs you will find that that problem is fairly common in trucks running 'above normal' torque and HP. This is a fault of the rebuilder not anything else (in my mind). I have the transmission sitting on the floor next to my truck. I will say I am questioning the builder's capabilities due to the fact he kept wanting to install a stock tranny even after I told him my power numbers, the torque converter bolts were snug but not tight, the transmission mount had two different size bolts in it, the cross member took three different size wrenches to hold the bolts, and the transmission mount is almost ripped in two pieces. I am not even sure it is the same case as what I had when he got it.

Yea, I really wanted to reach through the phone when I was accused of screwing up the transmission........... :mad:

Yep, 5 volts is 5 volts. Have you by chance checked the alternator for AC leakage?

I was towing my boat (16' aluminum) with my truck and got to a corner and when I went around the corner my transmission acted like it was low on fluid. There was a flare in RPMs on the second to third shift and then it was going into and out of lock-up. I went another four miles and stopped to figure out what was going on and checked the dipstick. In neutral there was no fluid on it! I had a quart in the box so I walked to the back of the truck and saw spots of oil on the truck and boat. I looked under the truck and the fluid was POURING out from the bell housing!! Long story short, a friend of mine came and towed my boat and a wrecker towed my truck home. I called the guy that did the rebuild (1300 miles ago) and he tried to say the torque converter was the problem, then he changed it to the fact I didn't let him install a new stock transmission (833 lb/ft of torque would tear it up) and he just did a "band-aid" (his words) then he tried to tell me the tranny was over heating. After things got a bit warm between us he did say to find out what happened and get back to him. I discussed the problem with another shop and they said that some builders use a pump bushing that wasn't the highest quality and they have been known to spin the bushing out and ruin the seal. I hope that is all it is, but I won't know until I pull the transmission and figure out what happened.

That was my first thought, but the ECM does not have the capability of saving the engine.......or does it??

I would really look at the Valair since it is less money and rated for more than what you are oing to be at for power.

I just got back from another drive with the car. It did great! I don't understand........... Maybe the computer had to 're-learn' something? I didn't think it had that capability.

That sounds a lot like a piston melted. If you get lucky you may only need a piston and rings PROVIDED the cylinder isn't scored bad.

I just scanned it and the engine control module says "No Codes Found". Everything I can check with my VCDS shows normal. What would make a diesel buck? edit 12:56 pm I took it for a drive and it did as good as you could ever want!?!? This car didn't have any turbo lag either! This it screwey.........

I agree Bill, they do have great info, but I will never log in or post there again. DAMMIT!! I went to take the car for a ride last night and didn't even go 400' and turned around. It cut out twice. Now I need to go scan it again and see what I find.......

You don't really NEED a slider with a 6 1/2' bed. If you want to verify, just take a tape measure and go to a trailer you may pull and holding the tape on the center of the pin measure the longest distance (generally 48") to any point on the front of the trailer. Then measure from the center of the axle (Dodge hitches normally go there) to the back of the cab. Then you will know for sure.

Worst part is, I was just asking for my son...... I said something about the snotty response and would not allow that type on my site and they said "Well, it must be a real boring site then!!" After that I left and never looked back. Anyhow, I think I may have fixed it. I pulled the air box and there are three grounds under there with two brown wires each. I pulled the first one and the wires looked clean, the second one had one clean and the other was slightly corroded, and the third was both wires had some corrosion on them. I didn't think they were enough to cause a problem but with the PCM who knows? I also checked the harnesses under there for any chafing, but found no sign of any. I put it back together and took it for a drive. Other than a little turbo lag below about 1800 RPM it did just fine and even the cruise works again! Now to see if I can get the lag out of it.

I was informed that the best way to check the fluid was with the transmission in drive with the engine running. Make sure you have a great parking brake or someone you can trust holding the brake pedal!!

That's what I am thinking. There is nothing on a stock engine that matches that description.

You guys are doing what I did. The code is for an electrical issue not a mechanical issue. I just realized that last night. I did some searching and found something interesting: Eddielee, I am a member there, but refuse to post there. I asked a simple question about the DSG transmission and a few members jumped all over me about not reading the owner's manual.