MnTom

It doesn't matter which side to crack the bleeder on since the rear brakes are tied together.

Hey, I have a 2012 that I just might sell!! lol The 2.0L TDI seems to be a pretty decent engine. It is quite surprising just how much power they have. My '12 JSW gives about 42 mpg with four people and luggage at 65 mph. Far as te iming belt, They are due to be changed at 80k miles (VW decided that) instead of 100k miles. They are not hard to replace on an '06 TDI 1.9L. I did one in about 4 hours the first time. I did use VCDS to check the timing later, but it was not bad to do.

One way to help diagnose the problem is to jack up the rear axle (both sides) and see how hard the wheels are to turn. Pull one wheel and loosen the bleeder and see if there is any pressure. After you do that see how hard the wheel is to turn again. If it is a lot easier, then you bneed to check the hydraulic system. If it is the same then it is a caliper problem (anything from stuck pistons to stuck slides).

It would be a 'bad' word filter. You can set them up to intercept just about any word or part of a word. Sice the letters can be interpreted as a "female body part" it is considered a bad word.

If I recall, I paid $270 for my VCDS. Just so you are aware, Bill, you almost need a laptop to change the fuel filter on the newer cars. VW says to not fill the filter canister and to manually operate the transfer pump to fill the canister. The reason for that is to lessen the possibility of contaminated fuel introduction.

How true! There are a few things you can change that even a dealer can't! I wish there was something available for our trucks.......

That is the best money I have ever spent for diagnostics PLUS you can change a bunch of things to suit your tastes and likes.

It would be a good thing to fix the vent on the tank, but you really need to fix the main problem.

No, it is not the headlight switch. The tail lights have one wire running to the back of the truck and then split near the back of the truck. You know you are getting power to the rear of the truck because the left tail light works. So then the problem is between the harness that comes from the front and splits to the right tail light. The split should be right near the left frame rail in the back of the truck.

For your headgasket, unless you need to shave a fair amount off the head to clean it up you are going to be fine with the stock thickness gasket.

It should be bent up in the middle, but maybe yours is a bit more than it is supposed to be?

That sounds like an alignment problem to me. Wearing out the outside is either to much camber or both camber and toe in problem. You sure an axle isn't slightly bent?

But did you check for voltage? It is possible to have a broken wire and the insulation looks good. You are going to have to start back tracking the wiring checking for power every so often until you find the problem.

Is it a plug-in plug? I mean does it plug in to the harness or is it a cut in? If it is a plug in then check the plugs and if it is cut in then check where the wiring was tied into.

I put a set of DURO tires on my last fiver (2x5k axles), pulled them when I bought the fiver I have now and put them on before I even left the dealership. That was in 2005 and my tires still look like new. I am going to examine them real closely this spring though.

Yep. Time to start looking at wiring. Do you have a trailer plug on your truck?

Sounds like the cheap bushings in the suspension are worn out. I need to check them on my trailer this year.

With the weather here (70 days this season starting out below zero) I am going to stick with synthetics too. Can you imagine what the gear oil is like when it gets real cold? The ring gear would just cut a groove until it started to warm up some.

I believe the ECM doesn't care what is on the end of the battery cable when you put the ignition switch into the start position.

To much 'chicken feed' tonight???

Here ya go: http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/starters/rebuild-kits.html Chances are all you need are the contacts and plunger, but the choice is yours.

This may help explain it. I got it from another RV site:

The before tax numbers are much higher, but the take home pay is way higher driving someone elses truck. Your own truck you spend most of your off time servicing/fixing your truck (most of the time for free) and with somone elses truck you just park it and walk away..........

Most people don't realize that anti-freeze is a misnomer. Anti-freeze WILL freeze, but it does not expand the way water does. Even if the trap was frozen solid did it need replacing the next spring?

I don't even use anti freeze when I winterize my trailer. I just blow mine out with shop air (40 psi) and run the pump for 30 seconds to get the water out of the pump. In case you are wondering, that is what the instructions said that came with the trailer new and have worked since 2005. I also have a small expansion tank on mine and the instructions said to mount it right on the pump outlet with the connection on the bottom.