MnTom

Uh, no not really: Run low on hours and you can get busted for that. I got caught in Butte, Mt. about 25 years ago and it could have been a $700 fine then. DOT is way stickier on that now.

That is teaching your kids right.

Last time I weighed mine empty was 6250 lb. with 1/2 tank of fuel and me in the truck.

Those have been proven to be ineffective due to the fact they produce a constant sound. To get a deer's attention the sound needs to vary. http://www.thevog.net/forum/thread/3439/deer-whistles-do-they-really-work-an-in-depth-report-by-fred-rau/

Unless your blow by was so bad it fogged the whole area under the hood I would say your machinist has no idea what he is talking about.

Well, unfortunately there are two sure fire ways to start an argument. Religion and politics. Either one brings out the worst in people.

Wow. I sure thought it was higher than that from what it sounded like. Now you really have me stumped.

That is the same style mine is.

I have some experience with a couple of 2006 Jetta TDIs and a 2012 Jetta Sportwagon TDI. The '06 is called a "Pump Duece" engine, but it is basically a CR style with the cam shaft actuating the injectors. The only real problem they are known to have is camshaft problems. If you want good info you can look here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/2005-2006-VW-Jetta-TDI-buying-guide.htm The DSG auto tranny is really a manual transmission that is shifted by the computer. They are VERY solid and reliable.The only issue with them is the oil is very specific and theyhave been known to have a problem with the dual mass flywheel. Just go to the WIKI section of myturbodiesel.com and you will have a lot of great info. My daughter is thinking of selling hers this spring. Something else to think about if you buy one is to buy VCDS www.ross-tech.com That software will give you the ability to scan the computer and even allow you to change things even the dealer can't. I have it and it works great!

I used to have a truck that was the same size as that one. That truck sucked. It took 45 acres (not 40) to turn it around, had a 454 that drank gas like there was no tomorrow (9 1/2 mpg EMPTY), hauled my slide in like crap. It didn't feel comfortable over about 50 mph with the camper on. I put the same camper on the truck I have now and got 15 mpg and would set the cruise at 65 mph and rode comfortably.

From what I have been reading about the DEF trucks is the general consensus is to leave them stock. They have tons of towing power and get 18 + mpg.

Chris, you may find that the reason that 12V is so quiet is because the timing is set quite low. The higher the timing the noisier they get plus the sound is a lot 'sharper' with higher timing. The CR trucks are the multi shot to bring the noise down.

The center wire is the wire that the PCM monitors and has the variable voltage signal. If you check the voltages (I don't remember what the numbers should be) the throttle at idle should be the lowest and go up as more throttle is applied. This is where an analog meter is handy. The needle should travel smoothly with no jumps or spikes. If you OHM out the same two terminals the needle should move smooth too. Here is a good bit of info for you: http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm

John, you still are not going to convince some of the 'die hards' that synthetic is better oil.........

The same thing that makes the 12 valve engines noisey. What the noise you hear is the sudden rise in cylinder pressure caused by a single injection event. The CR engines have a 'multi-shot' injection that brings the pressure up more gradually.

Rob will give you advice and not badger you with buying one from him. He will just tell you what you need to know.

Even a propane torch can help.

That sounds about right.

You are describing an older two cycle engine.

How would larger tires make the shifter sloppy? Rogan, you need to have someone move the shifter and see where the play is so you can figure out how to tighten it up.

The clips should pop out without any special tools. You should be able to use a punch and a hammer to push one end far enough to hook a screwdriver between the clip and cap to pry it out, Sometimes they rust in so bad they will break and go flying so be careful.

He means the stud coming out of the alternator that hooks to the battery.

Get ahold of Rob at MAXTORQ Diesel. www.maxtorqdiesel.com He is close by you and will fix you up better than anyone.

That looks a lot like an injector was not spraying properly. That would be why the rest of it looks so good. As far as "Not even broke in yet"..... That is one of the biggest BS comments that anyone could make in my opinion. That engine wad broke in a long time ago.

Bet you will think about hooking the clutch switch back up, right???