MnTom

Here is another fix. This guy just got a patent on it. http://www.maxtorqdiesel.com/

From what I have read only the Canadian version has the heater. I just put a heater on my son's TDI today. At 1000 watts it should give him plenty of heat in that little 4 cylinder!

Follow the link that Mopar1973man posted. I have changed two of them in my driveway with nothing but hand tools in about an hour. They are real easy and a direct bolt in.They really do improve the brakes!

Just order it at any dealer. If you just order the sending unit you won't get the module or a pump.

Did you put the stock cylinder back in? That would have been a great time to upgrade to the larger cylinders.

I have two in the family that are real difficult to start at 15* below zero and the Canadian TDIs have the heater option. My 2012 TDI has started at -30* though!

I don't really know, but don't think I have upgraded springs. I have had the truck since about 157,000 miles ago and I never upgraded them. It had 132,000 miles on it when I bought it.

Rick, try looking here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/ There is a video that shows you what to do. Just make sure you are checking at the alternator and not the battery for an accurate reading.

I don't plug my 12 valve in until the temp gets to zero. Your 24 valve shouldn't have any problem starting with those temps. Just make sure your battery terminals and cables are clean.

I don't normally go anything above 30PSI even towing, but I haven't had any problem with it in the last 140,000 miles so I should be OK. Most of the time I am running way lower PSI boost than using the HY, but like I said, it has a better exhaust housing.

Far as I know I have stock springs. I don't have the stock turbo though. I have an HX with what I was told "an updated exhaust housing" by the guy who did the work. I don't know how many of you remember Piers Harry, but he is the one I got this turbo from. I can hit 40+ psi booost with the probane if I want. I have no idea what the drive pressure is on it.

Yea, they are made every day, BUT to install one PROPERLY I would need to change exhaust springs and get some kind of controller for the transmission. It would get rather expensive real quick. Since I am no longer working and I am on a fixed budget then it gets to be a luxury.......I have thought about making one though........

Wish I even had one.

I saw that.......

And this would explain why there is so much road rage there..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNUiyjj0tQo

Generally figure 35PSI is tops. I have seen 44PSI out of one though...........oops.

Yep, that's what I mean! I like how the aggressor keeps backing up and then just gets in and drives off.......

I guess anybody that would listen!! No, actually I was wondering about the Eagle Eye guys.

Yea, I used to do that sort of stuff for a living. That and change the points, plugs, and condenser.

I know not to check OHMs on a live circuit hense the reason for me to say "If you pull the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?"

32 PSI is not a problem, but it is near the top of the compressor map to where all it really does is heat the air and over speed the turbo. Just keep in mind when you are running 32 PSI your turbo is spinning upwards of 160,000 RPM. At that speed if anything were to happen to it....well I know of one guy who said he did overspeed one and he needed a hood, inner fender, tire, and fender besides the turbo.

If you search Youtube for 'car crashes' you will find dozens of videos from Russian drivers. That guy is actually fairly mild.

You guys have a website?

OK, I am real curious what it is set at.

Have you ever had your truck next to another 12V and noticed that one truck has a 'harsher' sound when idling? That is timing. The higher the timing the harsher the sound. Yours to me (in your video) sounds a lot like the timing is set way to high. Have you checked the timing?