MnTom

OK, now you really got me thinking. It runs with a jumper, but not a relay? That does not compute. If you pul the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?

I am thinking the timing is off.

If all the fuses look like the one you pictured it is from an actual short circuit. If the element looks like it just got hot and is mostly there then it is because of either a slight overload or the fuse is getting hot. How are you actually by passing the relay?

I see Keystone trucks in the area a lot. I may have to look into where they deliver.

That is as bad as a dealership that told me "The reason your tie rods are worn out at 36k miles is because this is not a highway car. It is an in town car". I also overheard the service adviser tell another couple "Your engine has nylon impregnated pistons. It is designed to use oil". Honest that is what was said.

My son has a 2006 Jetta that really needs headlights. I am wondering about where to get them too.

Hard to believe all that white stuff is made up of something that looks like that!

My last BHAF (2790) was right at $50. Guess I got a deal a couple of years ago.

I had one many many years ago! That was one tough little truck!! I think it was a 1973.......

That just doesn't make sense to me.

They do have a bunch of good videos to kill time with.......

That was from me. I 'borrowed' it from another site

I have saw that before, but I still like it!

I don't know what it was, but my Dodge has the camper and trailer package on it. If you look at the suspention under a 3500 second gen it looks the same as my 2500. Even my daughter's QCSB 4WD 2500 rides better than mine. Like Isaid, the camper I had was an old one and I never did weigh it, but it was heavy. I have about 10 psi in the bags now and my fiver puts 1800 pounds in the box and only drops it about 2".

Anti sieze is one of the best things ever!! On your truck John, look at the pictures on the site and you should be able to get the correct one. Once you have it the rest is simple parts changing.

A lot of times they will lope slightly when cold. Mine with 16.5* timing and 300 injectors has a slight lope cold. Rogan, yours sounds more like it is in the 20* timing range though.

Not always. At an idle if I have the fan switch on high it will col my 2012 WV TDI down real quick sitting still. Even our Cummins have that problem.

I had an old 10' slide in that I put on a 1987 Chevy R30 (1 ton dually, four full size door cab) and at 50 mph it felt like it was all you felt comfortable doing. I traded that truck in on the one I have now and put the same camper on it. I aired up the bags to about 35# each. I went to Branson, Mo. with it and on the freeway I set the cruise at 65 mph and just rode. It felt real comfortable with the air bags. Hey Jag1, you are dating yourself. Datsun brand has not been around for a long time.......

Your timing sounds like it may need to be retarded some.

The transfer case on a cad truck has a sliding collar that disconnects the front driveshaft the same way your non cad case does.

If you are in extreme cold you will see a huge difference. A guy I know had the same truck as me (F-150 4wd 4spd) and was parked on a slight hill. I parked next to him and we both left at the same time a couple of hours later. I pushed the clutch in and my truck did not move. His truck rolled just as soon as he pushed the clutch in. He had synthetic through out and I didn't. The cold flow capabilities and higher heat tolerances make synthetic better in my book.

I have known for years the cell phone mics could be turned on at will by the ones in 'power'. I have a sister that retired from US Customs and another sister the retired form the US Department of Navy as a civilian and at one time was cleared for top secret material and was responsible for about half of the navy's payroll. The FBI and NSA know more about me than I know about me.........

The same as I run.

No, Hex, I don't have a CCW permit. I have thought about getting it, but decided I don't need to get one. You guys do realize that there are certain "trigger" words that cause topics like this to show up on a gov't data base, don't you? Trace your IP and they can tell you who posted and where to look for you.

I seem to recall that there was a problem with driveline shudder that turned out to be remedied by shimming the carrier bearing so that the both driveshaft halves were more in line with each other. It didn't take a whole lot of shims to eliminate it. Here is a TSB about it: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/03-003-04.htm edit: It sounds like the best way to stop the shudder (IF it is driveshaft related) is to get a one piece shaft made for it.