MnTom

That is why I prefer private party sales of any weaponry.

I have no experience with tuners, but from what I have read a Smarty is one of the better ones out there plus you can read and clear DTCs and enable high idle.

+12F here today!! It was -20F at about 4AM though.

Maybe I should look into then since I am getting close to 300k miles.

Then what I would do is start back tracing the wiring until I found the relay. Another thing to do is ohm out the glow plugs. They should all be about the same, but have been known to ohm out correctly and still fail. They are a 'consumable' part on anything they are used on. Back to the wiring, make sure you have power getting to the load side of the relay. Also check to make sure you have power getting to the coil side of the relay.

Just be careful of when you go to reassemble the hub to not let the hub hang on the spindle with out the outer bearing in place so you don't ruin a new seal.

The rating for a relay has nothing to do with the load itself or the coil side. It is the rating that the contacts are rated for. That is why I said if you wanted to you could use one rated for 100 amps if you really wanted to. The load side should be fused BEFORE the realay should be sized to what the load is rated for.

You can come up with all sorts of horror stories about anything even horrific crashes. My best advice is to if you use the heater do just like you said you are. Use a CO monitor, crack a vent and a window for ventilation and enjoy yourself! Common sense is all that is required.

DOT4 is a synthetic fluid. Yes, it is better with less moisture affinity and higher boiling point. DOT3 is mineral based and you already know what it is like. Just don't mix the two.

Moisture in the system will combine with the oil to help form acids. Like Mike said, pull a vacuum, BUT put atleast one can of R-134A in it to keep some pressure in the system. Otherwise where there is a slight leak it will suck in air and moisture and you will be back to where you are now.

Just because the relay is rated for 30 Amps doesn't mean you are putting 30 Amps to the load. You could use a 70Amp fuel solenoid relay off of a 12v truck and it would work fine. The 30A relay I mean are the standard cheap 12 volt relays that can be used most anywhere.

Changing the seal is easy. Since youalready know how to pull the hub the rest is child's play. Once the hub is off pry the old seal out from the inside and CAREFULLY tap the new one back in. Reassemble and you are done.

Oh, trust me, I am WAY more afraid of her than you even if she held no belt!!

Go to Amsoil.com and look up your truck. It will have all the recommended fluids listed along with the amount needed. I do Like anoldbiker does, go look there and compare prices (and I am a dealer). ATF+4 is about $2 a quart cheaper for Mopar brand at Walmart than Amsoil is at the counter.

You can get a 30Amp relay from NAPA for about $5. That would be more than enough to run your lp.

Yippee!!! Bet that makes you feel better! Congrats, I knoew you would figure it out in the 'warm' weather!!

Well, there is a decent bar about two miles from my house......... Besides, he said he is bringing his wife. Are you trying to say something???

You guys are lucky. -21 this AM and got to a high of -5 for about an hour. -14 as I type this..... Supposed to get up to -2 tomorrow.

If you want a straight answer call a guy that goes by Maxtorq. Here is his website: http://www.maxtorqdiesel.com/ You will get a straight answer and absolutely no BS.

The '96 model year had a cat on it. Mine plugged and gave me fits until I figured it out. Joe, the cats were round but had a serial tag on them. Yours is a resonator.

Yep.

Entirely possible to have one brake screw up. My right rear had almost 1/4 inch of clearance once because the nail that holds one shoe on dissapeared. That happen to be the one that holds the self adjuster cable so the adjuster was able to back off. There is a proportioning valve on the truck right under the master cylinder. Chances of it sticking are slim. Do you have a brake valve under the truck by the rear axle? That is the one that has a rod that goes from the valve to the axle. It is a load sensing valve and if the rod comes off it will set the rear brakes to the lowest level of braking. That happened on my daughter's truck.

I would think if it sucked the batteries down that quick it would have showed itself by way of smoke.

Well, when you are heading this way let me know. Maybe we can have coffee or something.

Yea the forecast is for +29 on Sunday!! WOO HOO!! Maybe I could even get my truck running again.......