MnTom

Sometimes you need to just let the line sit as is. You may have a small amount of fuel seeping that is not a leak and will clear up in a couple of days.

The kid is finally growing up?? Holy Mackerel!! Happy Birthday!

What kind of parts are you looking to get rid of? I have a good friend in your vicinity that has a '94 that just may want certain interior parts.

That was an advantage where I last worked. Our contract would not let us supply any tool, not even a screwdriver. If we had to do things "the hard way" it was up to the contractor we worked for to get the proper tools.

If your pyrometer says you are running under about 1250* then you wouldn't see much in the way of gains with higher PSI, but if you are running hot then more air is needed.

If your lines are not leaking fuel then they must be tightened good. If they were sucking air then there is a real good chance they would leak fuel. Your question about turbo psi..... PSI from the turbo in nothing but resistance to air flow. In other words, If you have a good flowing head (on your truck!!) then you would not have much in the way of PSI. Take it for a drive and watch your exhaust. If you are getting a lot os smoke then you need to figure out how to get more air into the engine, but if it just hazes then you are just about right with air flow.

Would be interesting to get more info on the power plant........

So, what part of Minnesota has spring? I'm guessing the southwest?

Chris, be careful with unknown injectors. They can cause all sorts of empty wallet syndrome or they can be just fine. A reputable place is your best bet.

I do, but my wife tells me I need to quit daydreaming..........

That is the way they are supposed to be as long as you take care of them, but if you were to start yours at -25* your truck would take quite a while building oil pressure. Synthetics will flow quite a bit easier at that temperature. This winter where I live we had 70 days so far this winter below zero (previous record was 59). With synthetics through out the drivetrain sure helped this year.

I know what you mean... My wife is going to be 60 this year.......

Yep. Mine did and yes, they do plug up........

Check the lower right corner of the radiator. That is the only other place it could be coming from.

Happy BELATED Birthday Uncle Clucky!!

Even on my stock exhaust when the tail pipe rotted and had a hole it was a lot louder in the cab.

Your best bet would be to use a pressure washer (car wash) and CLEAN the side of the block real well. Then you should use the pressure tester and see where the leak is. This isn't a "53" block, is it?

1/4" OD should be just what you want.

If you get parts there you will have the larger contacts.

My '12 has been giving mileage of only about 30 mpg to 35 mpg this winter, but that is normal every day driving locally. Once it warms up a bit it will jump up.

You do not need to bleed the line to get pressure readings. The air will just give you a small cushion at the gauge end. If you put 15 psi at one end of an air bubble you will have 15 psi at the other end.

Yes, Russ, there is a single hose that goes from the left frame rail to the rear axle. I have heard of the hose failing internally, but have never seen one myself. I don't know how common that is. Another thing that I have seen (on my truck) was a brake line rust on the inside and plug the line. Jag, DO NOT put 2 cycle oil in the master cylinder. It does not have the formulation to handle the conditions brake fluid does.

Good going! Glad to hear you fixed it!

HHHhmmmm, a CLUE!!

Here is what mine looks like when I am coming home. I don't use the wind deflector anymore and it did not help since it is so far from the trailer. Overall the set up is about 65' long and weighs just over 17k pounds. The camper is a 2006 Dutchmen 24BH that is 28' long and that is a 1970 16' Starcraft boat behind it with a 1970 70HP Johnson out board and a 1970 trailer (the whole thing is the package that came from a dealer in 1970!). Who else pulls more than one trailer?