MnTom

Do you have a programmer on your truck? I saw one that acted similar to yours and it turned out his programmer was to blame. Also check ALL electrical connections that are anywhere close to where you were working.

So, tell me..... Why did you post a selfie???

If you look around you could probably find some deck screws that drill their own hole and thread themselves it. something like this is what I am thinking of:

Most guys would love to get that kind of mileage loaded. If you want better mileage your best bet is to slow down. Just to give you an example, my truck with my 28' fiver on and a GVW of approx.17k gets 14 mpg at 60 mph, 12 mpg at 65 mph, and 10 mpg at 70 mph. Speed will kill more mileage than anything.

Good Grief!! That much for injectors, KDP, and exhaust leak? Injectors on a 12V can be replaced in about an hour. I know that for a fact due to the time it took to replace mine on a hot engine. The KDP took me 2 1/2 hours with nothing but hand tools. For the rest he could have purchased a three piece manifold, paid to have it installed and still saved money. Your buddy got bent over real bad........

That is true, but there is a dip tube on the cold inlet side that forces the cold water to the bottom of the tank and the heated water outlet has no dip tube.

Oh, you mean a resistor. Yea, I remember the 33k resistor installation. Read the link I posted and it will explain why it won't function properly on my truck.

Glad to hear you are still kicking, Dave. Take care of the other issues, we will still be here when you get back to 'normal'!!

Never heard of a diode being installed. Give me some info........ On mine when I put a switch in and jumpered the relay it would do fine until I hit the switch and then instant limp. Even without the switch it would go to limp mode when it felt like it. I put the relay back and still no good. Some of the first RE transmissions required a reflash to function properly. This will explain it better: http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf

I wish there was a simple way to make mine lock up on demand. My RE transmission is an 'early model' that doesn't like the wiring of a switch to lock. All it does is put my transmission into limp........

This may explain the frame issue:

Johnfak, I did a search for "cummins 12 valve headgasket leaking antifreeze" and got about 551,000 results on Google. There is a reason why guys that run higher RPMs clip two fins off the water pump.

Doh!! I completely forgot about that! Here is the stuff most guys use:

No rain here! Problem is there is still about two FEET of snow on the ground that is melting slowly so the surface of the ground (where plowed) is real slimy but there is a lot of frost in the ground.

Glad to know he is still with us. Has anyone heard from Cajflyn lately?

Yea...... 17 MPH up a 6% grade and it still wanted to overheat...... They remind me of some people I used to work with. They make a lot of noise but don't do much. Hey, how did this thread go from a torque converter controller to Detroit Diesels???

If you want to post a link you can just cut and paste. HOWEVER, in order to paste the link you need to have your cursor quite close to where you want it to be.

Hopefully there are no more ticks. My niece is fighting Lyme Disease. Hers has progressed to where she had some sort of brain test to see why she was loosing some cognitive abilities. Your trailer sounds good! I wish I could get my trailer out to get it ready to go! I need to wait for more snow to melt and the ground to harden up so I can pull it out without burying my truck.

ATF +4 is about $2 a quart less than Amsoil. You can't even get anything but synthetic ATF anymore.

It should go easy, but not always. Sounds like you have a good handle on the project!

If the thermostat is shut it blocks the flow to the radiator, so it does not 'see' the pressure. I had a good discussion about the 12V thermostat here in this thread: http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=997

If you look at the thermostat it will probably have one side stamped "This Side Toward Radiator". The round bulb faces away from the radiator.

I agree, they are designed to run up against the governor all day long, but the problem (the way I see it anyhow) with the water pump over pressurizing the 12V block is because on industrial engines there is a water outlet on the back of the block that had to be removed for installation in the trucks.

A guy told me the trick to running a two cycle Detroit was to slam your fingers in the door and then do it again so you are real mad. I ran a 6V92 for a week and it drove me up a wall.....

From what I understand the 5.9 blocks are similar, but you need to make sure the cam and or crank sensors are the same. The mounts and bell housings are the same.