Wild and Free

Decided to pass on it for now..................too many other irons in the fire at the moment.Moparmom, we have a better chance of the earth opening up and swallowing things than we do anything else happening from removing rocks from the prairie, we actually remove them from the open prairie where they are a hazard and a menace to both livestock and equipment and put them in places to actually save land from erosion in natural water shed areas or rip rap along rivers ect. Things are a lot different on the plains than in the mountains or on hillsides that are prone to slides.Also it is a money saver in the short term as well as long term to just have the equipment as I have the ability to do side projects with it and also rent it out at times and if I don't have it then I have to pay someone else to do it or rent it myself and things just happen to pop up unexpected, here on the prairie if you don't or can't do something yourself living in the country by having the equipment to do something can cost one more to hire it done than a piece of equipment would cost even if it just does sit for long periods.ISX, As far as pulling a trailer with a tractor, first off neither I nor my in-laws have a tractor with enough lead in the rear to pull a trailer of rock and then from having a rock trailer we pulled with a 4X4 tractor on my own family farm you have to be very, very careful as to not tear up the trailer.

13 members read this and only 4 voted and now I am stuck in 2-2 tie, come on folks only a half hour till poll closing time just one more vote to help me decide.

Did they teach you what to look for and what to avoid when cutting open newer model cars, like the high strength metal alloys that will destroy the jaws of the extracation tools and what to look for and avoid with airbag systems and where the manufacturers hide all the high pressure canisters ect.When I was in firefighting and extracation training this was a large part of the class.We saw a lot of videos where first responders and fire fighters were seriously injured or killed by undeployed airbag or other safety systems while trying to save a victim.

I have lots of rock / dirt to move at the farm, which is a day here and there when I get time to do so which could be several year project and I find myself needing a truck or dump trailer several time a year for other odd jobs and I have to borrow or ask for help from others which I hate.Plus a truck is much more manuverable in a lot of places I like to use it in than a trailer would be.I am still trying to talk myself into it can't you tell.

Yeah but a 14 foot gooseneck dump trailer new is in the 8K range and used ones never sell for less than 5K in my area this is a better deal plus I would have a p-pumped 12v to hot rod for a future project / dream. My all in one rock crawler / mud runner / power puller unit!:hyper:Not to mention If my plans don't pan out I have an engine to sell for the average going rate of 1500-2000 and brand new tires I could resell for a minimum of 500 and then the bed and hoist could be sold for 1000-1500 minimum or take and modify the tire wheel setup and suspension and axle and build a dump trailer from this truck.

Here is a link to my other thread about a 1994 Ford dump truck model CF 7000 with a P-pumped 12V in it, I have the guy down to $3500, all my research shows the truck to be worth a minimum of 4500-5500. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8434-1994-Ford-cabover-W-Cummins?p=81511#post81511 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6172&d=1379782824 I am going to call him by days end to buy it or decline it, I know this is a short window for a poll especially for a weekend when things are at its slowest on the forums but thought it would be fun to see the results. I am leaning heavily towards buying it, I know I wouldn't lose money on it at this point.

The 48 does in all years except 05, the pcm software doesn't allow it, 03-04 could be programmed to lock od out and 06 on had the ability from factory. There are tranny controller units made to lock out od but I have been too cheap to get one yet.

Where or what is the "Peninsula"? Just had supper at "Badlands" in Minot tonight as we were in Sawyer looking at a truck. My butt is sore, a smidge over 300 miles round trip for that. If I decide to buy the truck I will be back up there next weekend possibly to get it, if I do I will just haul it home on my trailer. I will shoot you a pm if I pull the trigger possibly we can meet up for some BS and a Bite.

Just got back from a 300 mile round trip to look it over. There is a fair amount of rust on the box floor and sides but structurally it is solid, cab is getting some rust on the bottom side but none severe yet, has a 210 HP @ 2500 RPM P-pump 5.9 Cummins engine with an air compressor, "Air brake truck". Truck is in overall good condition, front crank seal and valve cover gaskets leak but that is to be expected. I forgot to look at what it had for a turbo though.Got him down to 3500 but I want to research it a bit, has 162K miles on it and no AC. But for a farm and errand runner it will work good for me. Then I have a P-pumped 12 v to play with for other project in the future if I want.Interior and seats are in great shape with large comfy seats.

Every yard and shelterbelt has them! You spent too much time in no mans land up in the NW portion of the state I guess. Colorado Blue spruce and Black Hills spruce are the most popular along with Scotts and Ponderosa which are actually a native pine here too. http://www.treesforme.com/nd_pinus.html http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/trees/handbook/ndhand-1.htm

That is pretty much what I had planned for it. Lots of rocks to haul and dirt to move too. Plus for the price I could use it and sell it or part it out, not really a losing proposition for $4k.:thumb1:used 14' tandem axle dump trailers bring 5K+ in my area.

I am thinking seriously about looking at and scooping up this deal, the price is right and hey...................IT HAS A 5.9 CUMMINS!!!!! Guy said it isn't a power house, only does 62 mph at 2250 rpms, no ac and slight rust as it came from Minnesota originally. 6 spd manual with turbo and he isn't sure if it has a VE or P pump, he thinks P-pump but not sure and couldn't look because it is in storage. Bed has steel floor with hoist and is in pretty good shape New rear tires new radiator and battery in the last year. http://www.bismanonline.com/1994_ford_5_9_cummins_6_speed_33_000_gvw_cab_over/?appStat=mrvList

Yesterday got another couple loads of scrap to the recycling facility, one was a pickup box trailer full of scrap and the one in the pics of my 1965 C60 Chevy, I pulled the 283 engine to hang on to for no reason in particular and the box has some garbage in it too.Total gross weight was 22,820 lbsnet load weight was 8400 lbs, pickup with trailer and me NOT in it with under half tank of fuel was 14,420 lbs.Other than a 20mph crosswind blowing me around a bit I didn't hardly notice this load back there compared to the blocks.Monday I am picking up another 6 pallets of landscaping blocks, will possibly pull across a scale this time just to see the weight, it will be 3 pallets of the same blocks I picked up the last load in the pick above and 3 pallets of pavers.

That's what a radial is supposed to look like.

Why so hard on the steers? I never run over 50 psi on my steers even with the ranch hand bumper on all my rigs and have never seen funny wear an either of my cummins or even my V10.

Most of my driving is about 50% gravel, drive 35 miles of it daily to and from work and it does wear tires a bit faster but it comes out to about the same wear as if loaded with trailer most of the time on hot pavement from my experience with all my rigs.Ryan the Hankook Dynapro ATM are going good on my cummins and I have talked to many others who are running them and all in my area are having great luck with them. I have 30K miles on the set now and they are still look almost new.Best tires life I got was on a set of BF AT.s 285-75-16 I had them siped when new and put 85K on them sold them to a friend who put another 30K on them. They were D rated with a lot of gravel miles on them as well.I got 85K out of the factory BF rugged trail AT's on the 05 and they still had some life left when I pulled them off. I would say overall I get 60-70K from tires.My wife got 110K out of a set of Toyos on her neon a few years back.Like Mike said the biggest tire eater is pulling trailers on gravel and especially wet gravel.Wet tires are extremely more vulnerable to damage than a dry tire, I saw a demonstration while at Michelin school where a guy took a large heavy blade knife and laid the full length of the blade on a lug of a dry tire, it was a large loader tire, and he hit it with a large mallet to try and get the blade to penetrate the rubber and all it did was bounce off, he then took a spray bottle and gave the same spot 2-3 squirts of water and did the same thing and one single hit sunk the blade all the way into the lug just showing how good of a lubricator water can be and how a 10 inch blade could be a rock cutting a tire as easily when wet, gravel roads are like driving on razors when it is wet.At work at the mine we run Toyo MT's and the roads are wet most of the time as we need to control dust with water trucks and we average 8-10K on a set of E rated tires on our pickups that never see pavement in their lives.My problem is finding a tire that gives awesome traction year round PLUS gives long life. So far the decent traction tires are 60K and the sucky treads are the longer life tires, so far the BF AT"S have won in my book but like I said they were siped when new, but the Hankooks are doing good so far will be several more years before I find out total life as I only put 10K a year on the cummins.

This is another thread subject I have to laugh at here. All of the "Science and formulas" are fine but are for reference and a starting point only.In the real world every tire manufacturer rubber compounds are different as well as the biggest factor of all I see absolutely nobody mention here and that is tire temperatures which is affected by ambient temps , load on tire, speed, pressure, conditions the tire is being used in and again the tire itself.If you all check your pressures at a set ambient temp with cold tires meaning the vehicle has not moved for 8 hours and is equalized with ambient temps then load them up and run for 20 miles and then check and see what your pressures are again, on average I see between 5-10 psi increase when the tires are hot.I have been through the Michelin Off Road Tire service Training program in Greenville SC for a week and work with large mine equipment tires on a daily basis so I know a thing or two about this, BTW we have tires that cost in the neighborhood of $100K each so getting max life from them is critical. Just saying........................

Well we have a contractor starting a patio / staircase / landscaping project in front of our house and I am pitching in where I can to save on costs and I am trucking some of the material myself, here is the first load of retaining wall blocks, 6 pallets worth weighing in at roughly 3500 # each.The ol cummins definitely new they were there, trailer weighs about 6-7K# alone so total weight was in the neighborhood of 28K# behind the girl. She did fine but with the long grades we have I wish I had the ability to lock out OD but nothing a quick blip of the go pedal to kick it down into 3rd on occasion couldn't fix.

What are your plans for it? I would look it over with a large magnifying glass and not miss anything. Then see if he would let you drive it for a minimum of an hour or so to see if any issues pop up after it is warmed up good.Why would he install an awesomely built Sun Coast tranny and then throw an ATS "Awefull tranny shop" converter in front of it?

1500 HD with a cummins transplant....................I would just keep looking at that point, accident damage is one thing but having a cobbled vehicle all together is another.

I wouldn't be too concerned with body damage if all was replaced and cab work was performed by a competent body man, look over the bottom side and make sure there were no frame repairs. If the frame was damaged I would be leery.

There are many reasons for a salvage title, ask the owner if he knows what the damage was. Wife and I are going to be in your area again in Dec for another 8 day vacation. Liked the trip down to southern fl and the keys in July so much we decided to go again will stay on the gulf side but don't yet know where we will all go..

I have seen just as many if not more VP engines with pistons melted down from bad after market injectors as CR engines. Just that the stock CR injectors cause meltdowns and 12 & 24v VP injector caused failures were not very common at all.

I guess I am old school and do not agree with how things are done with vehicle registrations, If it wasn't built in 02 then it isn't an 02 in my worldly ways of looking at things, why the heck do some manufactures already consider vehicles built in may or june of this year 2014 models already.......................just ain't right:cookoo:

When a person buys these injectors what filters do you recommend? Which filter is the best of the best in the factory canister to get the best "Big Bang Filtration":wink:? By the way you side stepped my question about how many trouble free miles have been seen from a set of these injectors so far in a normal use scenario! Or have these not seen long term real world testing yet? As Dorkweed tends to say a lot lately, not trying to be an A$$ ..............I am Just saying. Just for a non related reference I put 120K miles on a set of BD 155 hp injectors in my 02 24v VP rig before they started running a bit erratic running a factory Fleetgaurd filter in the factory canister only.