Wild and Free

It goes WAAAAAAAYYYYYY farther than just tracking you!!! Hackers can actually Hack your car..................While under way. http://www.infowars.com/darpa-computer-geek-talks-about-hacking-cars/ http://www.infowars.com/hackers-demonstrate-how-easy-it-is-to-carjack-a-vehicle-remotely/ It is suspected that the government is doing this to murder whistleblowers now as well. http://planet.infowars.com/worldnews/usnews/rolling-stone-journalist-michael-hastings-body-was-cremated-against-his-familys-wishes There are stories of petty thieves hacking into and stealing cars or items or just to do it to make a statement. I have seen mainstream stories relating to this recently. GM has had it for years with the addition of onstar and I have read that every vehicle with an on board GPS unit has it and is definitely traceable.

Total gross weight was 22,100 lbs myself not included.Ford was 4850 lbsFerrous scrap was 2510 lbs Trailer and Pickup alone with 1/2 tank of fuel, normal supplies and me not in it came in at 14,740 lbs with 70 lbs of 2 auto Batteries that stayed behind too add 275 lbs for me.This was the load.

This pic shows old school growth Chinese elm that needs to be plowed over. ND has a lot of trees that have been planted in the last century. Not sure what you have been taught or heard but the north eastern part has tons of trees just like Minnesota and the south western part has a lot of river bottom woods and a lot of wooded draws and coulees in the hill country, the south eastern 1/3 sucks with few trees and table top flat and the north western 1/3 isn't bad with rolling hills but that is all oil country now but not many trees. We have many types of landscapes, I grew up in the hills and valleys of the Missouri river breaks that Lewis and Clark traveled through and wrote about and spent an entire winter just 3 miles from my family farm and General George Armstrong Custer spent his last days at Fort Lincoln which is just a few miles away as well before his trek to his last stand at wounded Knee in Montana. Dorkweed comes to ND to hunt but he sticks to the extreme flat land treeless area in the SE part of the state, I rarely ever go there, if you are born and raised in the hills flat land is hard to put up with it is a bit rolly polly in the SE but in comparison to my area is flat as a pancake.

My grandfather on my dads side was born in 1889 and passed away in 1986 at 97, he farmed full time up until he was 88 when dad made him quit due to artheritis. He had many many heart attacks over the years and he just worked through them, he had bypass surgeries and he too refused to go to the DR later in life and suffered several attacks we knew of as he always had large black eyes and bruises from falling down stairs ect,In his exact word to going to the DR. "All they will do is give me more GAWD Dam pills, I already have a cupboard full of em" Well he lived another 10 years and suffered several attacks and not one trip to the dr, just popped a few more nitro pills and went about his day, but a stroke got the best of him in the end.Talk about a tough man!My grandmother, his wife had 4 way bypass in the early 80's and at the time life expectancy after that was 10 years max, she died last year at 96 years old. She too proved the medical industry wrong.My mother was diagnosed with MS when she was 19 years old and died in Feb from complications from it at 63, I saw how the medical industry failed her over the years for myself having had to take care of her for the last 15 years.My wife and Mother inlaw have lived the organic Holistic lifestyle most of their lives and I am full on board as well and my MIL being 80 years old and in perfect health yet says a lot.In short you are not going to change his thinking "Only he can do that if he wants", I am stubborn as was my grandfather and even more so seeing the breakdown in western medicine and practices and overall the whole medical system over the years will go the route of the holistic approach myself.

Here is load #2 for the day, cleaning up my Mother inlaws farm. First load was a full sized pickup trailer loaded to the gills with scrap, even destroyed a bald tire on the trip to the scrap yard.Load #2 1981 ford F250 4x4, lots of scrap piled up under it that can't be seen in the pics, along with some old fuel tanks and an old home built trailer frame on the roof.The second pic is the next load to head to the graveyard, my 1965 chevy c60.

^^^^^^^^^^^^Yep what he said, if your 01 has an external temp sensor in the line it had already had a tranny temp gauge added at some point. The line we replace on the 47 RE tranny to gain the external temp sensor port is from a 94 model.

Not sure what you removed but the stock sensor is integrated into the valve body inside the tranny. The hot line leaving the tranny for the cooler circuit is the front line on the driver side of the tranny and there is no factory sensor in that area.

Remember folks, he has larger than stock tires as well so if he wants to keep a larger tire on going to 4:10 would keep him closer to 3:73 without figuring it out through a ratio calculator. This is a big reason for me recommending the 4:10 gears.I have bought and sold several used sets of gears for the 2nd gens over the years fairly cheap, I just sold all my spare second gen stuff when I sold my 02 last year. If you hit up other forums they are quite abundant.The front Dana 60 is just a ring and pinion swap but on the rear D70 If I remember correctly to jump to 4:10 you need to swap the whole carrier assembly but the aftermarket gear companies have designed gear sets to avoid this if I remember right, been a while since I have checked into it.

Nope not at you, just a comment in general. No more expensive than a turbo swap "actually about 1/2 the price or less if done by ones self" and under normal driving conditions wouldn't affect mileage much at all. Not to mention no tuning required and a lot more simple. There are many sources of used ring/pinions and diff carrier housings, no need to look for complete axles. I find it amazing at how many people are willing to tear into a $5-6K+ engine with no hesitation where the chance for failure is higher than drivetrain, yet live under the false thought process that it takes a ton of money and an engineering degree to even look at stupid simple geat sets..

Let me say it again...........3:54 to 4:10 gears and if you are dead set on a turbo go super B.Fix your issue don't mask over it with mods you do not need.Your auto is already set up nicely, no need for a manual swap. That lever behind the steering wheel is capable of the same push button to kill OD, or manually pull it down into 2 or 1 easy peasy.

Are you sure it is the tranny? I would check that the hub didn't blow apart in the clutch first.

Pretty much the same as when a VP fails, hard starts or no start, runs rough, unusual blue or black smoke, engine misses, I have heard a ton notice the engine has a slight surge noticeable with the cruise set.How long depends on many things, how long it is run that way, if it is being worked hard at the time how the injector fails, slow or just sticks and floods the cylinder with fuel, which CR it is in, be it an 03-04 with better pistons versus the newer ones that will fail sooned because they can't handle excessive heat, if it just floods the cylinder and washes it down and scores the cylinder and piston, the list goes on but you get the idea.

Where you are at I would not do anything, I know tons of guys that have been running stock turbo and edge with 150 sticks for many years with no issues, just don't get stupid.I have proven to many that one can compete and run hard with no studs. My 02 was at 560 hp for many years with edge comp hot II silver 62 and 155 sticks and the waste gate set at 42 psi, hooked to sleds and drag raced and many dyno runs and absolutely no issues when I sold it with 150K miles on a virgin engine.I just ran a torque wrench over the factory head bolts when I installed the 150 sticks at 75-80K miles and let er buck. It still had the factory head gasket in it yet. As long as you stay under 45 lbs boost you are perfectly fine.The one mod that would be best for you with your setup is going from 3.55 to 4.10 gears, it would make your rig awesome while towing that train car of a home around in the western grades. Too many folks fall into the trap of wanting to mod the engine to make up for the wrong gearing for their use "This is the category I place you at at this time".

B series is a solid block, no liners, just need to bore it and go oversized or bore it oversized and dry sleeve it back to stock if just doing one cylinder. Added high quality filters does the same for the CR injector as it does for a VP44. The destroyed pistons and cylinders come from folks who don't care or know any better and do not notice the subtle changes progressively getting worse. No different than those who drove carbureted engines so out of tune they miss and backfire ect but just drive them anyhow. They are among us.

I have sat through a few heavy diesel seminars in the last couple years and the emissions of the new SCR engine should not be shied away from, the bugs have for the most part been worked out and are very reliable as AH64ID pointed out. The thing that is going to change with the up and coming SCR technology is the oil that will need to be used in coming years is going to change again. So this will give you all something to wait for and think about.

An old neighbor who was half bald early in life always had a saying. "You can't have hair and brains both":lmao2:I myself am 42 and have a full thick head of it yet and it gets really curly so I keep it between #2 in summer and #4 winter, I am a simple clipper man as I wear a ball cap most of the time anyhow. Once it gets to #4 length it is pushing my hat off my head and the other thing that drives me nuts is when it grows over my ears.As a heavy diesel tech and farm boy most of my life even with short hair I have had days when I had to shampoo several times to get the dirt and grease and oil out of my hair.

Stock is 100 % fine, I just wanted a factory rake or even a bit more level. Any lift added will not affect anything, the coil rate of the springs affects stiffness and ride quality. Bumper will not affect the alignment on a solid axle rig. I would like to know how any portion of the steering would come close to the frame even if it was in full compression it should be clear of all things. I just drilled a hole and bolted the outer edge of the inner fender to the flange of the bumper, There are actually a specific snow plow package spring that is heavier than the stndard suspension, there are actually many different part #'s for the front springs, the snow plow spring part # ends with 988AA. I paid 800 off e-bay for the one on my 02 with free shipping and I bought the ones for my 05 and 2010 1500 for 1100 each through a local dealer.

Manual tranny rigs need temp gauges even more so than autos if you tow anything with weight to them. I have seen input shafts and bearings literally turned to molten lava they have been so hot, when I worked at the gear shop we talked many heavy haulers into tranny temp sensors on manuals and a lot came back in disbelief of how hot and how fast they get hot and how much of a difference it made pulling in direct versus OD on them. As far as the auto tranny the rear line going into the tranny is the cold line coming back from the cooler circuit, the front line is the hot line from the TC..

Yes, all stock springs with leveling spacers on top except for the 02 which I swapped the OEM stockers for OEM snow plow springs alone, no leveling spacers there and it did not settle any, remained at factory ride height.

I actually preferred the stiffer snow plow springs in my 02. Compared to the stock springs the rig felt more stable and responsive. It was a firmer ride but I can't say it was rougher, maybe on pavement I noticed the stiffness a bit more than anywhere else.With the spacers it still feels like stock. I did the same thing on all 3 of my rigs, I measured the distance from the bottom of the fender lip down to the center of the wheel to get the most reliable measure of how far they settled, I measured stock and then right after the bumper install and then after a few weeks to see how things settle in.

I am on my 3rd ranch hand on 3 rams, Best bang for the buck as far as front end protection. I have looked at 20+ companies over 10 years and keep coming back to ranch hand as they are built tough and are about the cheapest ones around.:thumbup2:For me the cost of 1100 for a new one is a no brainer, average a deer collision every other year and it pays for itself in saved deductables alone not to mention the hassle of the repair ect. I can not count how many deer I have sent to the grave and not so much as a scuff in the past 10 years of running them, the 3K I have spent on the 3 in total have saved me way more than the purchase price already.I have added a 2 inch front spacer in 2 of my rigs the 05 and the 1500 hemi and they sit nice and level with the added weight, I have found the front on the 05 and 1500 set 1/2 inch lower than stock after a couple weeks of having the RH on. I had the heavy duty snow plow springs on my 02 so didn't need any spacer, the added weight didn't even phase the snow plow springs.

My usual summer weekend tailgater!Sold the Blazer from the first pic, only for sale for 4 days. MIL will be happy, made her 500 bucks after exspenses for something she wanted to send to the scrap yard.

My 25 foot 1972 Avion travel trailer remains trouble free as well.

Having worked at a truck shop "Inland truck parts and service, ITP for short" with a specialty driveline shop where we built them from scratch as well as complete rebuilds straightening ect, I am not a fan of the machine shop laith method as we got them in regularly and they were still quite a ways off, a good man can get them close at best. Find a shop with a Dynamic spin balancer, they spin them up to whatever they are rated to spin, normally 5-6k rpms, then they know what end is off and how far off it is. They are similar to a tire balancer only they spin way faster.