Wild and Free

Welcome to the best diesel family on the net!

Next step is to offer core exchanges and then it will be in my price range.

Funny you guys bring this up........I have this exact thing going on right now with my pontoon trailer with drum brakes and bearing buddies. My pontoon trailer brakes have been acting funny and chattering badly, so I pull the plugs and go to set the bakes up and what I found was exactly that, grease packed brake pads. The trailer is about 5-6 years old and I pump up the bearing buddies once a year and now I found out where all the grease went. Stuck my brake adjustment bar in and it came out a grease ball, took a light and looked in al the adjuster slot holes and all I see is grease.

My wife and I were through there 3 years ago visiting a relative of my wifes in New symrna, was cold as hell then in Feb. Left ND at 38* get off plane in Orlando to 38* there too.

Our justice system worked exactly as it should have in this case. Better to let 10 guilty people walk free than to put one innocent person behind bars.

It is a direct factory replacement line nothing to flare cut ect just remove old one, pull the fitting out of cooler remove ball reinstall and put line back on. 1/2 hour job even for a beginner.

Do not pull both check valves out, just pull one or the other doesn't matter. The reason they are in there is so that if parked on a slope or for extended periods of time it doesn't back drain the entire cooling circuit oil back through the converter back into the pan, helps keep the system from getting aerated too having to fill the cooling circuit every time the rig is started.

Yes and Yes. The time trial run a few minutes before the run it broke was an 1/8th mile run at 7.8 seconds can't remember the speed. Shaft snapped right at launch and I never left the line.

Had I done it again I would have gone with an 06-07 just for the fact the tranny pcm in the 05 is goofy and can not be programmed to turn OD off, it only has tow haul mode, the newer ones had both tow haul and od off option. the 03-04 pcms could be programmed to turn od off at the dealer plus I like the head lights better in the 06+ along with the fact the mega cab came along in 06.I have often toyed with trading my 05 for an 07 5.9 megacab.

Really...........I never ran one, I had one but never installed it, I drag raced with my smarty stacked with an edge Hot comp the smarty reduces the torque management but does not eliminate it and I snapped my stock output shaft in my tranny.

I did this upgrade from Red neck ram many years ago on my 02 after installing my heavy ranch hand bumper and it worked awesome with no issues, I ran it with a 3.3 turn gear box which was the best money I ever spent on the rig. What ever you do make sure it is a 3.3 turn box I think Borgeson is the only company that makes one for the 2nd gens now, ditch the 4.5 turn, I spent money on every steering upgrade there was and most were a waste of time and money versus the 3.3 box hands down period.

Better have a fully built tranny with all Billet shafts as well, things get super radical really fast once you kill the torque management.

Figured I would start my own thread and add pics of myself hauling things rather than cluttering up someone elses thread.MIL wants to sell her 1994 S10 Blazer 4.3 multi port auto with 267k miles on it and has been parked for over 2 years, throw new battery in it and still no start, add fresh gass check spark both good, no fuel so it got hand winched onto the trailer to come home with me for a fuel pump and clean up to sell for her."update" got the fuel pump in and she sprang to life, warmed it up and the muffler came apart inside :banghead:Rear rig is a 1990 S10 2.5 5 spd 160k miles my brother in law donated to me, very rusty but engine and tranny are strong runners so home it comes with me as a beater pickup after I replace the valve cover gasket and fix the temp sensor.Not bad for a few hours work.Next project is to build side boards for the trailer to haul scrap off her farm to clean up and then.................................... To load it up with fire wood!!!!!

If I remember right the output shaft is smaller on the DLD as well.Brand new t-cases used to be had for around 1100-1200. Good used ones a bit cheaper.Front drivelines being out of balance or a badly worn slip splines on it or a bad CV joint in the front of the t-case are all main culprits of dynomiting a case like that.

You have one definate issue causing a vibration and that is the fact that you do not have enough slip yoke on the shaft, it is almost out to the danger zone limit and can cause the drive shaft to jump rope from that point and second you could have a bent driveline and should be taken to a shop that specialized in balancing them. If you are going to stick with the DLD you are going to need to make or find the correct length driveline, The proper dimension for the driveline length install the slip yoke going into the t-case all the way and pull it out 1inch "Some say 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches " and measure the flat surface of u-joint cup to th same of the rear pinion yoke.

Pretty much the exact rules here in ND, The one exception is if driving a coach type RV with air brakes one has to upgrade to a class C or B CDL with an air brake endorsement and one has to take a driving test to show proficiency with air brakes on a larger chassis vehicle over a certain weight I think 26001 lbs and over requires a license upgrade.I just renewed my CDL license a couple days ago, they now have 4 different classifications which determine Inter-state or intra-state use and mileage range from home ect, and if a DOT physical card has to be on file at the DOT or if you just have to have one on hand ect.

NINE speed is the easiest tranny to learn on as you do not have any gear splits just high and low range, take the same 9 speed and change out the tail section to get a 13 speed and then you can split all the gears in high range.A 9 speed is a lot easier than a truck with a straight 4-5 speed and a 2-speed rear end, those were always a pain to drive.

Did you take the fitting out of the heat exchanger and try taking the ball out of that fitting at that point or did you just try the one in the new line? It doesn't matter which one is removed, could be Dorman has a larger ball or different shaped fitting flares or uses a harder material in the ball than Chrysler does I have never seen a Dorman line to compare. I have installed a few lines and all were from Chrysler and all popped out in a couple seconds with an o-ring pick.

The ball is just soft rubber and pops out easily with an o-ring pick or small screw driver, no need for any other line to be made or modified ect and the sensor fitting is for 1/8th inch pipe for standard sensors and is built right onto the pipe one piece right where it exits the tranny.

If you were reading from the pan it would be reading close to the factory temp sensor as it is located in the Valvebody which is picking up the cooler oil from the pan. I wouldn't make any bets of accuracy in the sensor being held to the outside of the line.

see post #7 in the thread below, there are replacement cooler lines with sensor ports built into them, one from chrysler from a 1995 application and one a lot cheaper from rock auto. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5919-Tranny-runnin-hot?highlight=sensor

Don't waste your time, I have several threads here on where to measure tranny temps and the oil in the pan is the coldest oil in the system as it has just returned from the cooler circuit.Accurate temps need to be taken at the converter outlet cooler line, the front one coming out of the tranny, this is the actual and hottest oil in the system. By the time you register the oil as hot in the pan it has already been burned long before hand as the oil in the pan will average 30-50 degrees cooler than coming out of the converter.

Most have hit on not double clutching but I had to do it when I got my CDL many years ago as ND DOT requires it while taking the driving test.Every truck is a bit different but once you figure out the feel it only takes a little bit to feel out the differences. If only running one truck it will catch on pretty quick and even easier with a 9 speed, when you get into the 13-18+ speed rigs it takes a bit more practice.The trick is to watch the tach and do not over rev things, slow and easy is the best, get to know what rpms it will slip into gear going up and down the easiest and like pointed out before every engine drops and accels at different rates and this needs to be figured in too.If you ever drove a Detroit diesel you know what is is like to speed shift, they drop rpms so fast you have to stab gears as fast as you can, good thing they are about extinct so most will never get to experience this, I learned to drive semi as a teen on our family farm in a 1970 IH with a straight piped 6-71 Detroit with a 10 speed and no power steering.:banghead:When I worked at a truck shop for a few years there were days when I would have to test drive several different trucks so you learn to catch on pretty fast.

The next up and comer left wing Liberal state in the union unfortunately. A nice place going wrong!!:banghead:

Seeing what you do for a living have you considered ND or MT? Tons of work and great places for family and education, cost of living in the western half of ND and eastern MT has gone up due to the recent few years of oil boom but is settling in and leveling off. ND is ranked #1 in the nation in many things and the list has grown substantially in the last couple years. http://freedominthe50states.org/ http://freedominthe50states.org/download/print-edition.pdf - - - Updated - - - Boy are they ever Liberal in the strongest sense of the word so much so they believe everything they hear and see and have absolutely zero common sense and no drive to research the facts they think they know. Wife and I were there between Portland and Seattle for a week last summer for vacation and I couldn't believe my eyes and ears.