Wild and Free

I have a Cummins engine barring tool that work quite well too. It is even easier, just pop it in the supplied hole in the bell housing with a breaker bar attached to it and it then keeps things from turning on me.

Not that the engine is different as it is the engine controls and sensors change with epa changes for emissions and the way it comunicates with the pcm changes with tranny and chassis changes from year to year. It is a simple 10-15 minute flash at the dealer but they will charge you an hour flat rate fee.

Best to play it safe from this story!

I remember the old joke of changing the muffler fluid as well................................little did we know there would actually be a fluid for the exhaust.....jokes on all of us lol....

Here in ND you can't even sell a vehicle at a salvage or scrap yard unless you have a title for it anymore.The other thing I have been checked on a couple of times is when buying or selling between private parties the purchase or selling price better be correct on the title, to many fraud cases to get out of paying the taxes. The DOT has requested statements and documents proving the price paid for the vehicle matches the selling or purchase price on the title.There are too many horror stories about folks buying vehicles and then not being able to license them due to no title.If I do not see a title in hand at time of inspection or bank lean paper and a talk with the bank to make sure it is ligit, I will not waste my time.

I for one as a Tech for the better part of my life love the unit hubs, no mess no hassle. Just changed one out on my wifes VW jetta, just shy of 250K miles on the OEM, I have never seen any serviceable bearings last that long, too many things to go wrong during the process from poor quality grease to not knowing what to look at in bearing fatigue and wear and improper set up procedures.

I have found on several ocassions that the fuel in between the fuel line nut and the cross tube will bleed out over the course of several days causing the appearance of a fuel leak that doesn't actually exist. Best advice is to just drive it for a few days and get it warmed up good and let the fuel burn and evaporate out of the void between the nut and tube in the head. It will be wet around the line nut but will eventually dry out. Of course if you have fuel running down the block while it is running then you have an issue.

I think I read some of his earlier posts and they do not use anything used, they start with brand new Bosch injectors and go from there.

It is the quality of the filter itself mainly, then the lack of servicing or lack of cleaning and oiling it properly, an oiled filter with a lack of oil is basically filtering out the chunks and not filtering the finer particulates that cause the damage to the cylinder walls and rings.If you buy a cheap oiled filter and then do not maintain it properly is like running a screen door screen and no filter. Even if it is a quality oiled filter and it was not maintained properly or an air nozzle was used to clean it an blew holes in it and was not noticed ect.Take a brand new K&N filter out of the box and shine a trouble light inside it you can see the holes in it that will not catch anything fine at all., the filter media is way too course and not consistant.

The shop told him they get at least one diesel pickup in every month with a dusted engine caused by aftermarket air filter systems that were cheap or improperly serviced. In my buddies case he had both a cheaper system and he was not up on the servicing it properly.

I ran an AFE stage 2 cold air intake system with dry filter with the nylon outerware on my 02, I cleaned it with a blow gun once a year and it ran over 100K and my oil samples were clean as a whistle after replacing the K&N with it.On the 05 I have the factory air box with the 4" deep pleated Wix filter with the cold air intake mod to the box and the cool blue hose between the airbox and turbo.

I agree, I ran a K&N for a few months about 11 years ago right after I got my 02 before I knew better, lucky for me I sampled my oil every 5k and caught it before it did any lasting damage. Will never run another oiled filter no matter how good they claim, I find them a PITA to deal with anyhow.

Mike needs to trade the dog in for a cat.................. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57VbE0J9niw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iz4H4pAx7ZA

For sure, makes me glad I can do my own work, labor rates kill a guy now days. But his damage was self inflicted. He knows it too lol...and had the stock air box put back on, he is replacing the entire box as well due to surface rust he can't seem to get a handle on, repainted twice and both times paint blistered off the same spots within a year. Add 600 buck for a replacement box too. Count the paint jobs and box expense he has close to 13K into it in 2 years. Gets a 1 year 50K mile warranty on the rebuild, has to have an AFE oiled filter system or have the factory air filter set up for the warranty though. Anybody in the market for an edge EZ and an AEM cold air intake system? Just got off the phone with him and a guy offered him 25 bucks for the EZ, he laughed and said it will lay on the shelf for that price.

Got the verdict, injectors tested almost perfect yet. pulled engine down and found all cylinders were dusted from an AEM cold air intake with oiled filter that was not serviced properly. Fully rebuilt engine, replaced leaky axle seal, added full 4" turbo back exhaust and edge JWA, $10K and picking it up tomorrow.

I have a 10" Rigid Industries flood/spot combo light bar on my 2010 1500Hemi along with a pair of rigid D2 driving lights and the same pair on my 05 cummins.I also have amber lenses for all of them for snow and foggy conditions.These lights are flat out awesome, the light bar shines out just shy of 1/2 mile and the D2 driving lights are aimed just a bit to the sides so I can see everything like daylight from near 90* over 300 feet wide and just shy of 1/2 mile. love the white light and how crisp they are and the extreme small amount of power they use is even better.I will try and get pics of the light they put out one day. I know pics will not do any justice though.I took some really crappy pics of my 2010 when my batteries in the camera went dead and I am fresh out of new ones, the lights are not on it is the flash reflection.

Thanks, always one of my favorites, actually all of the old Looney Tunes were good. Just don't make em like they used to. Good Moring Ralph lol.

If the tranny was rebuilt to stock specs you are living on borrowed time. Personally I would keep the auto, for $1500 you can have a fairly bullet proof rig within your power range with a simple TQ/VB swap.Go with a standard Edge Comp over the Juice as you already have gauges.

I too think the nation and world economies need a "Correction" and everything needs to fail to be able to fix it and get back to basic government and keep corporations and banks out of governments. The majority of the people have been indoctrinated into the "Democracy" I cringe every time I hear even the so called Tea party members refer to our country as a democracy which the founding fathers designed out of our original "Complex Republic", in no place at all in any founding documents is democracy listed, it is why all governments fail within 200 years on average and the founding fathers knew this well.As far as money......................invest it in hard assets, cash is worthless paper and if the government does fail so will the money, pre 1965 silver coins are still the best bet as well as gold and silver but actually usable hard supplies are the best of all.I have posted this many times and will again, a simple description the best I can find that explains different forms of governments

lol...............That's what I was thinking............if global warming was an issue Florida would be the last place on earth I would want to live, you know the ocean levels are rising at record levels too.

I had a similar issue with my 02 except when I turned my key on nothing came to life at all, not even the gauges, found the ignition switch wiring in the tilt column broke at the pivot point just below the key switch. Mine was intermittent as well until I figured out that with the key in the on position it came and went when I tilted the wheel. easy splice had it going in no time.

You are correct about the upper and lower limits of a TQ wrench but when it comes to the nut that holds the axle in the hub it has no affect on the bearing in this case, it is a shouldered splined shaft and pulls up tight against the hub of the wheel bearing assembly, all the nut does is keep the axle from moving in the bearing hub.

Never ever torqued one, I just burp the ol 1/2 inch IR impact until it is lined up to the closest key slot.:thumbup2:Just have a feel for things like this after pulling wrenches most of my life and knowing the capability of the impact gun.

Anything with an "E" rating.15" or 16" wheels and what is the axle weight ratings or trailer weight rating?

I actually had 3.90 gears in my 95 1500 with a 360 and I thought those were the best of all. Had 3.55 in my 99 v10 and 02 cummins and always wanted lower, have 3.73 in my 05 and still wish I had lower like 3.90.