Wild and Free

Fly into Sanford spend first and last night there due to flight times and we are going to head straight south through central fl. and head for Naples one night. Last trip we drove down A1A on the east coast and cut through Homestead and down to Key west which is where we are going from Naples this trip, spend 4 days there and come back up north and spending 2 days on Sanibel Island which we visited for a day last time and fell in love with instantly, then back through the inland past lake Okeechobee again since last trip we went north along the gulf coast to Tampa and back to Orlando, we want to see the inland country of South FL this trip going to and from the keys, we like the SW gulf coast area between Naples and FT Meyers the best from our trips down there.What part of the state do you call home?We are already planning a northern Fl. / pan handle trip in the future.Allegiant airlines flights are cheap and easy direct flights now out of Bismarck to Sanford makes it nice.

He is an extremely intelligent and well read man. I have read up in depth on many of the subjects he brought up in his educating of the judge.My hats off to him and those standing up with him.:thumbup2:What most do not know is that once your parents fall for the slavery scheme of accepting a SS# for a child they sold them into a life of slavery or "Indentured Servitude" and at that point we have no rights as we become property of the central reserve bank at that point and by law your name is in all CAP on any and all legal documents and that is because you are a corporate entity to the government and thus have no personal rights anymore.I would have to look up the actual document for these laws but they are real and unknown to many.

If it is pumping fuel out to where it is running off the engine you have a leak, if it is just damp with fuel it is just fuel that was trapped in the void in the head between the line nut and crossover tube and will weep out and dry after a few days of being warmed up good. Very common and nothing to worry about happens all the time and folks think they have a leak which they do not.

Sounds like any equipment that works at sugar beet sites, that beet juice eats iron faster than anything I have ever seen, loaders 5 years old are pretty much rusted out and wiring harnesses are corroded to junk like you couldn't believe.I laugh when they put the beet juice on roads and claim it is not corrosive when it is worse than salt and chloride.Just a comment: here in ND there are no under ground mines, all surface coal mines.

Well at least we have metal to protect, at the mine I work at all we run are 2500 HD gasser chevys and they don't even have metal box fenders anymore, in the constant mud and off roading the rear box quarter fenders are torn of within weeks of showing up as they are all plastic, with every newer generation of pickup we get from chevy they are built more and more like cars than pickups..................junkier every year drivetrain wise and body wise as well.

ND does have a lot of flat land but I was born raised and live in an area that is very hilly in the south central / south west part of the state with what I consider a fair amount of trees, we are not covered with trees except in the NE part of the state.

WillYou are going to need to keep your rig washed up underneath as often as possible as you are right next to Minnesota which is a major rust belt area and GF and the whole eastern side of the state tend to use more salts like Mn.

The 10 inch lite bar is a combo but it puts out more of a beam, it shines out nearly a half mile, the D2's are combo lights as well they shine out nearly a quarter of a mile but light up a wide area about 200 yards wide. I have the smaller D2 lights on both rigs and love them to no end, I just thought I would try a light bar, I would suggest the D2 for anyone looking for an excellent all around light great distance and width.

I am married to one myself, I am a very lucky man. My wife came from a small dairy farm and is very conservative and thrifty and can out work most men when it comes to manual labor. Has her own horses and loves cattle and all animals as well as kayaking and canoeing and she is an avid runner, she runs marathons all over the place she prefers halfs more so and has given up the fulls this year, she does a lot of 5K runs too.. Another month will be 15 years married and Feb will be 20 years together, we dated for 2.5 years and were engaged for another 2.5 years before getting hitched. My wife isn't mechanically inclined though as you seem to be. We are headed down to Florida for our 2nd time in 6 months for a 10 day vacation in Dec. I can only handle flat land if it is covered with enough trees to block the view of vast nothing. We would love to see the area you just came from some day, looks awesome.

I have a couple of good chiropractors on speed dial that can get me in within an hour of calling most days and I married a Massage therapist who has a chiropractor for and older sister but she lives several states away in Iowa.This is how I make due................

LOL....................I am an extreme realist, common sense life experiences rule in my life. I am old school and live in an all natural rural world yet not covered by pavement or the "concrete jungle" scenario thankfully. I don't mean anything or hope nobody ever takes me in a demeaning or personal manner, I just like to make my point plain and simple. Without meeting me in person I know exactly how most would take my posts online.

They came with a wiring harness and a relay but they draw such little amperage they do not need a relay.Not very good pics but all I have for now.

It seemed from your questions you were still missing the basics so I backed up and tried to "simplify" no personal attack against anyone personally, I know a lot are not always on the same page with descriptions of parts. People use the alternator because it is easier as they don't have to crawl underneath several times trying to line up the mark on the IP gear and front cover if working alone, it can all be done from the top but the only direction you can turn the alt so the belt grabs good enough to turn the engine actually turns the engine backwards, But once you do get TDC I put a paint pen mark on the front cover an one on the dampner so it can be done from underneath and you just turn it over one full revolution and line up the marks from underneath while turning it over by the dampner bolts.

Well I can prove anyone wrong about the road debris, let me have it for a week and one would see they make no difference at all that way.For reference My daily driver sees at minimum 160 miles of country gravel roads weekly. I usually get to see what color my rigs are about 6 times a year depending on the moisture we get.I need to start taking pics of all the other rigs with big flares to show you how well they keep road debris off, they all look the same as mine "dirt colored".The only chips they keep from happening is the little lip around the wheel wells, most chips happen further back on the rocker panels and lower fender and most are on the front of the hood and windshield from passing other vehicles.

No the nut behind the engine breather cover is what holds the gear on the injection pump shaft. The vibration dampner is the big round thing on front of the crankshaft that the bottom serpentine belt pulley is behind, it has several bolts holding it to the crank shaft just pick one and turn the crank with one of those bolts.

I tend to tell folks not to use the alternator method as it turns the engine over backwards and it promotes a bad habit of doing things in a backwoods manner but on the flip side the tolerances of the B and C series doesn't affect the adjustment but if you tried this on any other Cummins or a lot of other diesel engines for that matter you would have an engine that would develop major internal damage if it would even start because you need to set the injection timing since the injectors are cam fired and are timed via the adjustment procedure and by rotating the engine backwards would put you so far off it would be awefull.

If you have not bought the lights already might I suggest a complete LED light bar assembly from Rigid industries, I have a 10" combo paired with a pair of D2 driving lights and they are like stadium lighting in front of me. One couldn't pay me to take a set of Halogens anymore. http://www.rigidindustries.com/ And a place to get them at a better price on sale right now. http://4wheelonline.com/Rigid_Industries_LED_Lights.169847

I personally would not put them on if I lived in a rust belt area, Here in ND we are not in a heavily salted area although we are getting there with even worse stuff like Beat juice and liquid chloride deicing formulas and I still see way more fender rust with the use of flares of any type, once the moisture and salt and road debris does work in behind it just sits and eats, I saw this with a set I had on one of my rigs years ago, saw surface rust peaking through, removed the flares and cleaned up area and it did not progress, tried them on a second rig and same issue a couple years later, never looked at another set since.Couldn't imagine how bad it would be in a rust belt area.

You know with all those miles on it now and all the little things and major things coming up closer to failing time you should just quit losing sleep over the whole thing and sell it and get something with less miles so you won't have all these little things weighing you down and on the back of your mind all the time as you are driving down the road.:lol3:I will start the bidding at $500.00................................... :stirthepot:BTW Mr. aka Harry Johnson this song is for you.

Still don't get all the elaborate contraptions for a fix as simple as adding a foot of hose or more to the existing one just to simply get it away from the radiator.The 3rd gens are no better, I can guarantee there have been hundreds or even thousands of pinion seals replaced that were not bad due to the location of the hose that dumps about 6 inches above the pinion housing on the front diff. I had to add hose to mine to get it away from the diff.For a huge group that looks for the best bang from mods this one is definitely not it, this is one mod that is as simple as old hose and the time and money going into these piping systems is definitely money and time that could be spent on more important things.If you don't like the drips then you all need to get a new rig with egr and engine vent recapture systems. That is a simple fix as well just a couple of signatures will fix you all right up no mess no fuss.......................

When you get a bit of spill In the country we refer to this as "Dust suppression".

The drivers in the ECM can be week as well, It fried the ecm on my 02 during the 2nd Smarty download and while going between Marco himself and Bob Wagner trying to figure it out my preheater light didn't come on at all after that which according to Marco from Smarty is the sign of a dead ECM, they did overnight another to me at their cost which was very generous of them.

off to the driver side through the closest opening in the frame rail and out the opening just in front of the fuel tank and just let it hang out a few inches.

The tool or your pickup?