Wild and Free

The only line to take off is the front one, then blow through the line and it pushes all the oil out of the cooler system and it drains into the case, then blow into the fitting on the tranny to drain the converter, this you just put a bit of pressure in at a time and hold the pressure on it as you are pushing the oil back through the pump and it takes a few minutes, do not put a lot of pressure on this just enough for the oil to flow back.The front cooler line is the hot oil line leaving the converter, the back flow check valve is in this line and opens with the flow going towards the cooler, if you tried to blow through the back line which is the return line it would not allow flow as that is against the check ball.

Seems they are reconsidering if it is truly dead, read a couple news stories this morning already and they think it is still in tact. http://www.nasa.gov/content/goddard/comet-ison-may-have-survived/ http://www.cnn.com/2013/11/29/us/ison-comet/

Was it this place? http://www.firehouse-ribs.com/

Hang in there, I hate seeing folks in pain.

Tatanka Dust is awesome too and made in ND. You are not eating at very good places in ND if you can't find good cooking, good cooking is everywhere in ND if you know where to look. I like a small dash of salt on some things but a lot of pepper on most stuff. http://www.owensbbq.com/tatonka-dust--sausage-seasonings.html

:banghead: The tech should have seen this issue while he was hooked up yet and narrowed down the issue right then, WTH was he thinking?

One word...................Beer lol, I have never been through this personally but Beer is supposed to be one of the best preventions for these and I am a beer junky lol.. Too much soda is a major cause for them from what I have read several times which I do not touch anyhow, I am not a sweets kind of guy. A coworker once told me he has "Peed out several clinkers"

That is just the nature of some ceramic or metallic clutches no matter what. If it is an organic or fiber clutch and it is grabby there is something wrong, they at no point should ever be jumpy/jerky.

I always pull the front cooler line off the tranny and use an air nozzle and blow the cooler circuit out and then put a small amount of air psi in the tranny cooler port fitting that the cooler line unhooks from and hold the pressure on it for several minutes, this pushes the oil back out of the converter.I have always gotten exactly 3 gallons out of both my 47re and my 48 re using this method for 10 years with no issues.

One other thing with grinding tables is that they need constant maintenance to keep the table and stones true as well, we checked the table over weekly and made adjustments and cleaned and changed the fluid as needed. When I worked at Inland Truck Parts and service, every flywheel got checked with a dial indicator for run out on the surface and diameter before it got removed from the table to make sure the table wasn't getting out of true.Some guys got in a hurry and it bit them in the but by not checking.

This isn't always a flywheel issue but it becomes a whole lot more critical to have a ground flywheel if running an aggressive ceramic button type clutch versus an organic faced clutch, I have seen lathe cut flywheels matched up with ceramic button clutches and it is definitely not a user friendly combination. Jumpy and grabby is a mild term for the nasty way they engage. I have had to pull brand new clutch jobs apart that someone had the flywheel cut on a lathe or not true up at all as the rigs were not even safely drivable.

From having done flywheel resurfacing with both grinding tables and a lathe find a shop that grinds them and doesn't lathe cut them, they are a smoother surface and are not as jumpy or grabby after a clutch install. Same goes with rotors grinding will always have better results.Plus people tend to take too much material off while cutting on a lathe versus a grinding table where you actually run it down a small bit as it is grinding until you actually see the whole face has been resurfaced and the hot spots and high spots are gone without going too far.Don't let them go so far as to go down until all of the heat cracks are gone either, I have seen guys take them down until they see a 100% clean surface which will gain you nothing except a thinner flywheel, some heat cracking present hurts nothing as long as it is ground smooth and true. All you need is to true up the surface and take the glazing off of it.If one has an inset flywheel or a flywheel with a lip then one needs to use the lathe to finish up the edge lip area as you can not get into corners with a grinding wheel.

On my 05 I usually limit it to under 5 minutes, if I start it with the key I kick on the PTO fast idle right away, if I start it with the remote start I usually use the 5 min rule and if it is cold enough the auto fast idle feature idles it up within a couple of minutes.If the 05 isn't plugged in and it is cold enough it goes to fast idle instantly at startup automatically.On my second gen I usually just let it run for a couple minutes and drove it easy for a couple miles is all.With my auto trannies once the temps get to the point it allowed for converter lockup it is game on then.:thumbup2:I think coolant temps at 140*F is when converter lockup happens.Another scenario is from VW like my wifes TDI Jetta, VW wants absolutely ZERO warm up idle time no matter what the ambient temps are with their diesels, start it and drive it easy for a couple miles is all and then let er buck.

She has a closet full of safety reflective cloths and jackets, she refuses to wear them as she thinks they look "Excuse the term DW" Dorky. Not at all, If I were the jealous type I would have an issue with her job as a massage therapist, but my gal is as rock solid morally as they come. She grew up in a staunch catholic home and is usually over the top inflexible when it comes to morals.....................................but then she met and married me and I keep trying to keep her gounded. lol:hug:

I won't argue Harry Johnsons point there but I too cook for flavor and I find ketchup disgusting and do not touch the stuff, I like whole real tomatoes. Ketchup has sugar in it and that is a turn off for me. When it comes to meat if you need to drown it in a sauce it was either bad meat to start with or you didn't prepare it right.:2cents:Our spice cabinet is overflowing as well, but the main ingredient we use most is garlic, whole clove organic garlic on almost everything, a garlic press is used for almost all dishes in our house.

Reading all of your posts makes me feel like an obese hippo, at 6'3" and 275 lbs. but I am a big boned guy and hide it well but I do have about 40 lbs I want to drop for my low backs sake. I was at 250 for many years but the last 3-4 years since I quit wrenching full time and now have a desk job have netted me and extra 25 lbs. But I do have the ability to shed it rather fast when I am out and about working in the summer just need to be more dedicated to working out more in the winter months, I have a marathon runner and super health nut for a wife and while I am health conscience I just like good food a lot..........and beer.

That's too bad it was supposed to be a great site over the next month as it passed by earth.

I will have to get one of these for my wife instead of her horse, her farm is so rural that there is little chance of it being of value where she rides but I would like to see this light on her as she is an extremely avid runner and refuses to wear any reflective clothing for safety, I think this would do the trick.......... as a Christmas present lol >>>>> I think I would get if she read this lol.I think she could Braid this "Tail light" into her "Pony Tail"............

Keep tabs of Comet Ison at this site with status updates every ten minutes. http://www.cometison2013.co.uk/perihelion-and-distance/ interactive site. http://wattsupwiththat.com/2013/11/27/watch-live-updates-on-comet-ison/

And to you sir I say thanks for what you do and I hope you have a very boring day at work.

My wife went to Bozeman MT with her mom to spend the day with her sister and her man at his mansion on the mountain and to run the Huffin for Stuffin 5K in Bozeman this AM as well.I am going into Bismarck to spend the day with my Great Aunt, she is in her 80's and is the last of the Great Generation in my family on either side and still cooks the entire meal herself, and a couple of uncles and other relates on my moms side will be there too and then on the my brother inlaws for a bit afterwards if I have time and the BS with my uncles doesn't go into the night, we can talk politics all day long.Hope everyone else has a nice belly filling day don't forget the stretchy pants.

My wife is more than half way to your neck of the woods for a couple days visiting her sister and her man in Bozeman MT ifn that makes you feel any better.:cheers:I have met many folks in person from several cummins and diesel forums over the past 10 years or so already.The latest was CSM from here about a month ago but he seems to be lurking and not posting the last couple weeks.

That is why I am going to go with the Total load control system. http://www.totalloadcontrolsuspensions.com/TLCforNewDodgeRam1500CSRE-1500-1-2.aspx

John I was still adding info to my last post when you posted this, open and read the Firestone PDF link at the bottom of my last post it has all the info in it.

It is for the in coil polyurithane bags only,the rubber bags which what you most likely have are good for like -40. I read it in another Dodge forum yesterday as well as on a dealer site but can't find either at the moment.:banghead: OK found the forum reference to it but can't find the Firestone sales site I read it on, I looked at a hundred sites the other day while I was searching, I'm not crazy I know I read it in a couple of places. http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=108032&highlight=firestone+4190&page=2 Like I said earlier though don't mistake rubber bags good to -40 Firestone bags to -67* for good yearbags to the polyurethanebags only good to 15* that the FS4190 kit comes with. Found it a firestone pdf file but I was wrong they are good to 5* not the 15 I was saying. https://www.google.com/search?q=firestone+polyurithane+air+bag+temp+rating&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7MXGB_enUS564#q=firestone+coil+rite+polyurethane+air+bag+temp+rating&rls=com.microsoft:en-US%3AIE-Address http://www.firestoneip.com/site-resources/ride-rite/pdf/2011_Catalog.pdf Bottom of page 5 of the above PDF * Coil-Rite Air Helper Springs are designed to work in temperatures between 180˚F (82˚C) and 5˚F (-15˚C). I knew I read it and I wasn't going nuts, and you thought I was full of **it again didn't you?.....................