Wild and Free

Bevel goes on first to help guide it on so to speak.

Mike answered part of your question, I usually lay the cover on a board in the spot the seal goes so it doesn't flex when pounding the seal in and you got it correct on the way the sleeve goes on. Sorry brain fart on my end about keeping the engine from turning while tightening or loosening the damper bolts.

I have had those types calls in the past as well except a real person not a recording , I asked if they wanted my address and they have the nerve to HANG UP ON ME....WTH.

One of my all time favorites to this day is him singing with Willie and the next one is one of his last works again with Willie. Willie is going to live forever I hope............... About the last of the good ol boy country legends left now are Willie, Hank Jr., Charlie Daniels and Kris Kristofferson.

What do you need a barring tool for doing a front crank seal but anyhow if you have one the opening is on the passenger side on the front side of the rear engine cover, there is a small cover over the hole. Absolutely DO NOT PUT THE SLEEVE ON DRY IF THERE ARE ANY NICKS ON THE CRANK IT WILL CAUSE A PLACE FOR OIL TO SEEP THROUGH YOU NEED SOMETHING TO FILL THE IMPERFECTIONS.. That Loctite product is a retaining compound you need more of a sealant that will stay flexible like I originally posted. You have pictoral proof of the crappy workmanship the CC company should have not even thought twice about denying this claim, get a second opinion or talk to a cc manager.

From talking with guys up in this area who put tons of miles on and run Michelins sounds like they made some changes to their rubber compound within the last couple years and most are not impressed with the mileage they get from the Michelins since and are looking at other more reasonable options as well that will last like the previous Michelins used to.

As far as installing the speedy sleeve and fixing the gouges on the crank use a fine file to take the heavy burs off then use a 220 grit emery cloth to smooth it up best you can and then use an aviation gasket sealer or form a gasket as it stays pliable and fills in the imperfections in the crank to help it seal. I put a light coating on the crank and a bit inside the sleeve and install the sleeve and then clean it up really well to make sure there is no excess sealer that will get on the seal. CR brand crank seal speedy sleave kits are the ones I have always used that always come with the sleeve install tool. I saw a post earlier referencing a depth for the seal, this is due to a couple of things, some seals come with a dust or dirt sleeve that go on in between the seal and damper plus the damper has a slight lip on it too, just make sure it is at least flush with the front cover after install and you should be good.

All need to sign up for e-mail updates from them, they do offer good deals a hand full of times a year like this last weekend, they had 10% discount sale and they recently just started offering free shipping all of the time now. I have seen 12% discount sales in the past as well.

This is a perfect example of why paying with a CC in certain instances would have gotten your money back on a contested service as you have all the evidence against the dealer on a screw up and then some.

Most speedy sleeves come with the install tool which basically consists of a stainless steel cup that is what you pound on.

looking at allmoparparts.com looks like OEM prices are $69.21 for the uppers and $107.46 for the lowers and they have a discount code for 5% discount right now, I just got an e-mail from them today just enter discount code APRIL5. I would still personally just go with the poly bushings from genos for just a wee over 100 bucks and a bit of elbow grease to save 250+- bucks.

I have enough meat left on the current tires on the 05 to make this summer season yet, I will install the new ones this fall just b4 winter so its going to be a long while b4 having any feed back on them on the 05, just picked them up early because the sale price was too good to let slip by.

They offer a good warranty as well and with you being further south may even be close to a TW installer as well. https://treadwright.com/pages/workmanship-2-years

Do you have any type of torch at all if even a hand held propane? I have had luck heating as much as I could that way if I didn't have access to an oxy actlelene torch, heat and beat and then let cool with penetrating solution several times and try working it back and forth with a long breaker bar ratchet. it takes time but I have always won without needing to cut them out. Patience and persistence is key unless one just wants to cut them and get it over with. I like challenges personally.

Believe me when I say I have tried 10 ply on a couple half tons and had tried every combination of pressures and have found no good way of running them on my local roads that doesn't beat the heck out of everything. I couldn't wait until I wore the last set off my hemi, thought the doors and dash were going to fall apart before they were worn enough to replace. I load up my half ton to the point it should be a 3/4 ton a lot and even when not I find that anything close to or under 35 psi in the rear makes it too squirmy overall in the rear especially since we commonly have 25-45 mph cross winds and 75 mph speed limits makes for a squirlly ride at lower rear tire psi especially with coil spring suspension although I have air bags added for my heavy loads and trailers which does help but that too adds another element on top of things, I run them really low when not loaded to help with ride quality.

Just needed to throw this out there. I have been running a set of tread wright tires on my 2010 1500 hemi When I bought them the only size they offered in D rated tires then was 285-70-17 but I run 160+ miles of gravel a week and c rated tires do not hold up and E rated tires are too harsh on a half ton but they do offer many more sizes in different load ranges now than a year ago. Well I have close to 20k miles on them and have been super impressed with them in the old BFG all terrain tread. I got them at the time for 560 shipped to my house. Tread wright now has their own branded tire cases and they had a sale going on this weekend and I snagged a set for my 05 2500 Cummins, got a set of these for 540 shipped to my door in "E rating" 265 - 70 -17 with their kedge grip, would have been 500 even without the kedge grip. One has to sign up for the e-mail updates which is how I found out about this weekend only sale. I highly suggest anyone looking into high quality tires at half price of new look into this company. I am sold on them after running them now and seeing how they are holding up superbly on all the gravel I run. https://treadwright.com/

I have a ball joint press kit so popping those bushing out is a snap for me but one can use a ball joint press kit from o-rieleys or napa if they have a tool loan program. Mike don't forget to max out the caster cams to the positive before buttoning it up.

Just pick up a set of poly bushings for the OEM arms and a new set of cams as you will be doing good if you can get them out without cutting them then assemble with a heavy dose of anti seize and max out the cams to get max positive caster and you will be happy and save a few bucks too. http://www.genosgarage.com/product/es-53142g/control-arm-bushings

Anything is possible considering muffler fluid and or muffler bearing issues used to be in the same joke punch lines, now we have DEF and actual moving parts in the exhaust systems.

Having dogs my whole life makes one appreciate life a bit more and look at it a bit different some times. I have lost 3 dogs over the years that were harder to see go than close human family members. Some dogs are quite easy to forget about though thinking back.

I like this one.

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM Bacon and eggs. More like bacon bits at this point yet.

I am assuming you have the factory track bar and not a 3rd gen conversion bracket and track bar? This would help it stay more centered as well not having the ball and socket of the tie rod style end that can allow movement side to side unlike the 3rd gen track bar setup with bushings on both ends.. I remember all the old pre 1990s 4X4 solid axle pickups where the front axle was always wider than the back by about 1/2 inch on each side. GM rigs were the most noticeable for this.

I always adjusted my TV cable so it shifted about 100-200 rpm higher than stock due to heavy towing a lot, never wanted it to upshift too soon and lug or have to shift down again. I like the feel of a firmer up shift anyhow.

If the TV cable is out of adjustment you would notice it at lower speeds not where you are. If it is misadjusted it will shift 1-3 very early "Too soon at very low rpms" or very late "at high rpms", causing hard shifts. What I saw in the video is how it is supposed to operate as stated towards the beginning of the topic.