Wild and Free

In all reality personally I would just go with a built 700R4 trans with OD but for the guys who do not want to do driveline work and like the 3 speed trannies adding the lockup clutch and VB kit is a great improvement for a lot better fuel mileage and keeping the tranny temps down a lot too on the older rigs.

There are Lockup converters and VB mods to support the lockup converter for the old 3 speed autos and are very easy to do. I have done 2-3 over the years on 350 and 400 TH GM trannies.

Small block chevy will pretty much bolt directly in place of the olds engine no issue with trans, Go with a 600 cfm Edelbrock carb for a mild small block and it will be perfect. Factory Hei ignition with a different coil and or module would work fine, I don't think there are any bad options out there any more.

I average about 50+-K on most tires. Best I have ever gotten from a set of BFG AT in 285-75-16 I had siped before they went on the rig on my 95 1500 with about 25% towing and gravel miles combined was 85K when I took them off with decent amount of tread left and sold them to a buddy who ran them another 20K miles on a 1500 chevy and were still running although pretty much bald when he sold that rig. Now my 2010 1500 sees 200+ gravel miles a week and a ton of towing so am waiting to see how long the set of Treadwright tires in 285-70-17 D rated last and hold up, 20k on them now and looking like they will make 40-50k easy so far super impressed. Wife got 115k out of a set of Toyo 800 ultras many years back on her 95 Dodge Neon with a lot of gravel miles on them too, ran them until bald and cords showing lol, back in the day when money was pretty tight for us yet before getting out of debt and getting better job on my end.

Will be an awesome rig then. $18,500 for a 2wd quad seems a bit high to me though. 4X4 would be a fair to me price but not for 2wd with that many miles. The Big horn package may add more value than I think though, I always buy the lower trim packages due to not wanting the headaches of all the extra bells and whistles to maintain and fix over time. used 2WD rigs do not bring much money for resale in my area, they are not too common.

seems about one in 4 pickups have the big roof mounted lite bars anymore in my area. I have been fortunate to not have a deer jump but have had numerous grills taken out by Pheasants and jack rabbits in the days before I had the ranch hand bumpers years ago, those Jacks are the jumpin buggers that cause lots of damage too.

What cab design is it? 4x4 or 2wd?Either way you would be happy with it. I have put my 2010 1500 through hell @ 103K right now and still ticking strong. Had the tranny rebuilt @ 80K due to burned up clutch pack from heavy towing. Had it restacked different converter and some custom massaging done to the VB and she made a whole new rig out of it. I only wish I had 3.90 gears instead of the 3.55 gears with the amount I tow.

I use my Rigid lights every single day going to work @ 4am or coming home @ 2am on 28 miles of country back roads. From the video which is hard to judge lite looks like my Rigid 10 inch combo lite bar in the middle of the ranch hand plus a pair of D2 Dually lites aimed about 30* to the outside puts out about as much lite as the 52 inch light in the video. When I see comparisons of other brands that stand up to the destruction attempt videos of Rigids and they keep ticking I will look into other brands but I have found no other company willing to put their products up to the same testing standards rigid does which makes the added cost worth it especially when using them to brand deer. We run them on a most of our equipment at work and in about 5 years and having hundreds of them out in the field I have only seen one of them quit working in that time.

I agree with that one too. I was talking full ranch hand only on my own rigs but yeah looking at some of the bull bar styles would be a total pain in the butt.

3 ranch hands on 3 different Dodge rams and have smoked countless deer at varying speed with zero tweaks to anything. On my end I love them for service work because I can sit on it with my feet between the grill and coolers and work on things over the front versus kneeling on the bumper and laying across the radiator. Key is knowing if you can't avoid hitting a deer I make dam sure to center them up best I can so as to never if possible take one from the corner. I have been very lucky so far and nothing but fur hanging off them when I get home.

Final quote from the article posted above and has been tested and confirmed by most in my area in the mid to late 80's already, very old news, waste of money. Conclusions Given their research experience, the Georgia-based researchers concluded the following: “Considering the challenges of producing sound at appropriate intensities and distances from a moving vehicle, deer hearing capabilities, human safety concerns, and our observed lack of behavioral responses of deer to sound treatments, auditory deterrents do not appear to be appropriate for prevention of deer-vehicle collisions.”

Got the loader off today, pulled some panels off and took the air nozzle after it and took off a layer of dirt and oil caked dirt from the years of build up, next step is to pull the rear loader mounts off and some more panels and then it won't be much to split the engine from the trans. Had to remove the front driveline to get the oil pan off so that's one more step done. Baby steps, only reason I was not out on the water today was the 30mph winds and spent day cleaning the yard from a hail storm Thursday night, 2010 Hemi and pontoon got nailed but not too bad paintless dent repair on the hemi should get the worst of it out on that rig pontoon panels need to be replaced on the starboard side, yard looks like a war zone from tree debris, got about half of it cleaned up today. Yesterday was a fun day, wife and I did an obstacle course / mud run race. Wife took 3rd overall in womans and 1st in our age bracket 51st overall of 702 racers. Here are my results. http://www.mtecresults.com/runner/show?race=4217&email=1&rid=1775

What is I 594 what did it outlaw? A whole article about I 594 but not a single word about the details of the law and why they were demonstrating. Here in ND our legislature made huge strides to ease some old gun laws and next session they are going to make a big push and sounds like they are getting the support to eliminate concealed carry all together and replace it with our constitutional carry right instead. ND also changed up some of the testing language and details for our Class one CCW testing so we now have the best CCW permit in the nation with the highest amount of states we have reciprocity with now versus other states.

Crank shaft is broke into 2 pieces if you look at the left side of rod journal in the pics you can see the clean break opened up a bit. That is the front side of #2 cylinder rod journal. I also found an undamaged spring clip laying in the oil pan at this point assuming it to be a piston pin retainer. Found a guy in ID who may have a good fresh overhauled long block with a possible bad head he may scrap. Found good used cranks for 450 and reman cranks for 575 so far. Looking like I can be in the 2k range for my own overhaul if things keep looking this way depending on the price of the long block, he is going to do some checking and let me know in the near future.

Dropped the oil pan and found the crank shaft broke on the front edge of the #2 rod journal, the rod cap was the only thing holding it together, answers the question as to why the front crank seal hemorrhaging oil during only a few seconds of craning it over now too. Now to start pricing things out knowing what I am looking for. Here is some eye candy of the carnage I know everyone wants to see. Upload failed on more pics will try again. Have several pics of the crank but upload fails on all of them.

He is either a really brave or a really stupid man using ether on an engine with a preheater. I have personally witnesses heads blown off engines with glow plugs and have seen bad flashbacks and a couple that actually caused bad burns on guys and lots of other engine damage when people do things like this.

These tractors are truly amazing. Here are the comparisons between the two I have. One is a smaller "B" series and the latest project is the next chassis size larger "L" series. New big brother. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/9/1296-kubota-l2850.html Little brother. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/6/1263-kubota-b2150.html

I am feeling like I won a raffle with this deal, I never find great deals like this, just listen to everyone elses good luck most days lol.

Probably going to hang onto it for the in-laws farm, will work perfect for whats needed out there and it will fit in the barns that the JD 4020 will not, big enough to handle round bales with a bale spike mounted to the loader bucket. That way I do not need to haul B2150 kubota out there all the time to do barn and general road and yard work. Probably just sell off the mowers and box scraper to pay for the overhaul and then enjoy the sweet deal.

Found a deal too good to pass up on Monday. Found a 34HP 4 cyl diesel 1987 L2850 Kubota 4x4 tractor 1700 hours with loader and fairly new tires, implements it came with were a 6 foot JD finish mower and a 6 foot rotary brush mower and a box scraper and cultivator, package deal for $4500. Can sell off the mowers and other stuff and recover close to 2K there alone.Tractor and implements all in super shape but the project portion is that the engine has a bad knock. I did not start it to not cause any further damage but did crank it over to confirm it does have one. So I plan to drop the oil pan shortly to inspect and see what broke and what direction I want to go. Win win for me no matter what, tractor with loader is worth $8-10k and worst case I wind up putting a reman engine in I have found them for the $3k range or a complete rebuild kit for $750 plus whatever extra broke like rod or damaged crank shaft and machine work and overhaul it myself all depends on what I find damaged once oil pan is down, if all looks good I will overhaul it myself.

Ha ha you were on my same line of thinking there IBMobile!

I am speechless, at least from a pg13 stand point.....................

Lets back up here guys, Killer223 has a 3rd gen which is a totally different animal ball joint wise than the 2nd gen ball joints everyone else is talking about. I can not believe he got over 200K on the original set, I have personally never seen one in this part of the country last more than 50k without being worn out. I have Carli's in mine but there are other choices out there for less money that seem to be holding up as well in the 3rd gen world.

One other thing I see is most are now using aerosol brake cleaner for cleaning guns now rather than the other solvents out there, especially the AR folks then just a bit of oil on the action and back in business.

I follow a lot of gun info forums ect. and it is coming down to the fact that few hard core gunners are spending a lot of time cleaning the bores or actions of guns until noticeable performance issues are noticed. Most say that more damage is done to the action and bore from over cleaning and not using the proper methods of cleaning than from not cleaning and just shooting. Stainless barrel guns I see a lot of guys now say they only run a couple patches through every couple thousand rounds or so.