edcasey

"Diesel-Dan" has a 5 part video series on Youtube that shows how to remove and replace a VP44. He did a really good job with it.

I got a pump from jkidd last year. It was $920.00 after rebate. The rebuild was done by a well know Bosch certified shop so all the upgrades are done including new electronics. My truck always got the same mileage since I bought it 4 years ago but when I installed the new pump the mileage went up almost 2 mpg. Jkidd is an excellent retailer and the only way your core would be refused was if it was in a fire or disassembled.

I also believe you are right Jimmy. Several years ago there was a rather heated argument on another forum about whether the lift pump can pump fuel through the VP44 and out the overflow valve or just to the chamber before the internal vane pump. The consensus among people who understand fuel flow through the VP44 was there is no route for the lift pump to push fuel through the VP44. It would require pushing fuel past the spinning vane pump which isn't possible. To confirm this I emailed an expert on the VP44 to ask if increasing fuel pressure from the lift pump would increase fuel flow through the injection pump and out the overflow. This was his response: " Hi ED, This is a really good topic. A lot of people assume that the inlet and outlet of a VP44 are directly connected, this is false. You are right the transfer pressure is fed to the injection pump enters a vane pump (supply pump) where pressure can be increased up to 250 psi, which is regulated by the pressure internal regulator. Increasing the supply pressure over 15 psi will increase the internal supply pressure slightly due to the mechanical operation of the pressure regulator, but will not make a difference between fuel flowing out the overflow valve or not. One thing to always remember is that not all failure of the VP44 pumps are caused by transfer pump pressure. People like to simplify things when it comes to vehicles and make assumptions with no proof. Here is a diagram of the fuel flow through a VP44 pump."

The funny thing is they got fined for bribing foreign officials in countries like China, Russia, Thailand, Greece, and Iraq. Any domestic bribes are just considered business as usual especially if senators are involved.

There aren't any dealers selling kits anymore. There were a few problems with the kits. Like any kit, it was much more expensive to to purchase than buying the parts individually. This drove the price up to nearly the cost of a Raptor kit. The Walbro kit didn't have a very long warranty so to most people it was worth spending a little more to get the Raptor. The other problem was Walbro (or their distributor) stopped wholesaling pumps to dealers that didn't carry their entire product line. I worked as a service manager at an RV dealer for 15 years. Almost all RV's are delivered from the factories by contractors using their own trucks (95% being Dodge CTD's) It was these drivers who first introduced me to the Walbro 392's. The main reason most of them where using the Walbro was the pump it self cost about $100.00 to purchase so they could afford to carry an extra one. In the event of failure, the pump could be replaced at the side of the road in about 5 minutes and they could continue on their way. If they were running a Fass or Airdog, they would have to wait for a replacement to arrive from the factory. This down time would make the free replacement pump actually cost far more money than just spending $100.00 on a replacement Walbro (lost income, hotel room, possibly having to have their truck and trailer towed...). It's unfortunate that Fass and Airdogs are not sold by major parts retailers that would allow you to exchange your failed pump immediately. I'm thinking about doing a write-up on installing a Walbro system including what parts are needed and where to get them. I don't mind spending the time if there is enough interest. But basically, the pump itself costs about $110.00. The remainder of the system (hose, clamps, fittings, prefilter, return manifold, relay and bypass regulator) will probably bring the cost somewhere around $250.00. My system was less because I already had the fittings, clamps and hose plus I made my own return manifold and wired my own relay harness rather than buying a pre-made one.

Thanks for posting the update Russ. We've been worried about you. My wife and I went down to RI to deliver my camper to my sister-in-law so they can stay in it until their house is ready to move back in. It's absolutely amazing the amount of damage water can do. You and Sheila are also amazing!!

I can . I'm almost at 85,000 miles with one of my 392's. Not bad for $100.00. I know many guys who haul RV's for a living (or at least use to until the economy fell on it's face) and have put over 100,000 miles on their 392's. Let's not forget about the mechanical pumps (Fuel Boss and MITUSA) both have proven to be very reliable.

We just got back from trying to help my wife's family with flooding basements. What a mess. We're only 90 miles away in Western Mass but we didn't get anything close to what you got or Eastern Mass got. The stream in my back yard rose but didn't even flood. I see CNN and FOX have both picked up the story. I hope it doesn't destroy any of the turf farms. My father-in-law is an independent trucker and a huge part of his business is hauling turf. He's on the verge of going out of business as it is with the way the economy is. ---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:34 PM ---------- More Pics: http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=140698&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=140846&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=140848&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=140852&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141205&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141209&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141332&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141333&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141334&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141335&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141461&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141518&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141519&width=628&height=471http://www.newstimes.com/mediaManager/?controllerName=image&action=get&id=141521&width=628&height=471

We've had some serious rain this month with a lot of New England setting new all-time records for rain fall. This picture was sent to me by my wife's cousin in Rhode Island. It's route 102 in Exeter RI just in front of the country club.

I wish they had posted why they aren't doing it. Maybe some of them already have the factory upgrade or don't actually own a 24 valve with a puke bottle. It's my first attempt at a poll so maybe I should have worded it better? I'd rate it as one of the top 5 upgrades I've done to my truck.

It looks like a Dodge Dana 80 Dually hybrid axle. This would make sense as it would be the easiest conversion. A Ford or GM Dana 80 Dually would have 10 lugs. It could be a Dana 70HD dually but that would be a much harder conversion likely requiring the spring perches to be moved. You will need to remove the entire hub assembly to unbolt the rotor from the hub. The rotor is only the inner half of the assembly in your picture.

And your mod only costs about $10.00 or so and is fast and easy to do.

Here's mine; More oil leaks from a stock crankcase breather: My radiator shroud I don't remember whose truck this is: Another leaking puke bottle

Just wondering how many people have done Mikes crankcase vent. I knew about the vent problem and his inexpensive repair but put it off until my radiator looked like this; So I cleaned my radiator, intercooler, engine...and added Mikes upgrade and haven't had a problem since. Also, my truck doesn't smell like oil after an oil change like it used to.

Not a chance in hell MA will sue. Especially with Martha Coakley being our AG. If it wasn't for Obama pushing this health care bill, she would have beaten Scott Brown in the congressional election. It's funny that the most liberal state in the union sent a message (a republican in Ted Kennedy's seat) to the White House and they ignored it. They spun the lost senate seat as Coakley's fault for running a bad campaign. I guess the only way they'll learn is when we vote them out of office. Hopefully, we can minimize the damage they do to this country before the next elections. I really like what Congressman Roger's said about the hard working people with health insurance being "punished". I've been screaming for years that our government encourages failure and penalizes those who work hard and succeed.

I had absolutely no warning. It started perfectly, drove great, didn't throw a code and the mileage was the same as it had been for the last four year. I had just finished climbing a very steep hill with about 3000 pounds in the bed. It pulled the hill like it normally would with no indication of a problem. Than it just suddenly died and wouldn't restart. I've been reading about the problems you have been having and I wish I could give you some help but it has me stumped.

They are both 12mm. Here's a fitting for 3/8" line: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Metric-Adapter-06-JIC-X-12mm-p/m1206.htm or this one for 1/2" fuel line: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Metric-Adapter-08-JIC-X-12mm-p/m1208.htm

This is pretty wild:

Have you check resistance through the TCC solenoid? The TCC and OD solenoids are part of the same component.

X3. Been there before. You worry so much about destroying your tranny that the extra power becomes more of a burden. Like these guys have already said, beef up your transmission first. I ran an Edge EZ with a stock transmission for years and the tranny held up well. It's not real exciting to drive but it does give a noticeable power increase and mileage increase (if you drive it easy).

I know I'm a little late with this but there is a TSB on using ATF+4 in our trucks. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/21-010-06.htm To make a long story short, what it says is "In general terms, If ATF+, ATF+2 or ATF+3 was the recommended fluid, it is now recommended to use ATF+4"

Thanks for that diagram Mike! I have a copy of it but it's all on one page and nearly impossible to read. Your version is perfectly clear.

This is the factory wiring: Some generic diagrams with relays: This one gets power for the relay from the low beams so the lights must be on to turn on fog lights. This one is wired to the fuse block so the fog lights can be turned on at anytime. Diagram without relay: