mopartechnician

There are rare occasions on the 24 valves but I have never seen or heard of them, only read that people do it. If I had a 12 valve I would do it, but on a 24 valve I wouldn't be worried especially a 2000 and newer.

What about a sump? http://bdpshop.com/performance/fuel-systems/sumps/beans-diesel-performance-sherman-tank-sump.html

4 bolts and it should wiggle off. Hardest part is getting new crand seal into cover when its off the engine. Also unbolting the fan is a pain

Your 3/8" line might be the problem with the drop, I know its bigger than stock but it could be it. Also when was the filter changed? My 1/2" line setup with sump to stock housing and 1/2" big line kit, drops maybe 2lbs.

If you have an intank pump, you wont' be pulling fuel through it

In Nebraska, there is no paper copies if there is a lien, everything is electronic until it is paid off and you request a paper title

New crank seal and a tube of rtv is what I use, you can get the whole kdp kit from genos for pretty cheap. There is no gasket between fan mount and block. I would also suggest doing a t-stat since you are already there. And like said above, check all the other bolts. I have done probably 6 kdp kits on mostly 12 valves and I have never had a loose bolt or pin.

When they put the intank pumps in, they ran a wire up to a connector that was behind the drivers front wheel well. That's all I can remember doing, but there had to be more to it, I know we also had to flash the ecm.

What type of gauge you reading pressure with? My electronic glowshift is about 3+lbs off when its anything off idle, I put a mechanical gauge on with my airdog2 165 and it holds 18psi with my setup at full throttle

No way to pull it without pulling tank or bed.

Stock lift pump?I would unhook the connector for the lift pump and see if you are getting power and ground after bumping the starter

The o-rings are there to prevent air from getting into the fuel system ( why you get hard starts when they are bad). There is no way you could of damaged them by over tightening. Personally i tighten mine with a 3/4" wrench until they are tight. I dont get crazy with them but hey are tight. Another thing to try is to loosen 1,3,4 on the connector tube and the vp and then push the line into the connector tube while tightening the nut. But first drive it for a while and see if it leaks. Also check the nuts after a couple of heat cycles on the engine

fuse F?

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/ sorry it has taken so long, they finally got their website back up

Unplug everthing that is blowing and see if the fuse blows again then if it doesnt plug one thing at a time and see when it blows. Let me know the fuse and when i get home in 7 hours i will study a wiring diagram - - - Updated - - - Also pull your headlamp switch and inspect the wiring

I'm just going off my many years of replacing vp's and lift pumps, I have seen it many times where a truck will develop a hard start and come to find out some gasser mechanic put on a fuel pump that is putting out over 20 psi of pressure, put raptor on with 18psi and hard starts are gone. Yes you can have more than 20 and not have hard starts but it will eventually come. Some people say that anything over 25 causes seals to go out. Its up to you but I feel safe running 18 and that's what I have set all the raptors I have installed (12+) with no issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

You better turn that pressure down to around 18 or you are gonna start having starting problems

It will be a couple of hours before i can get home and look at a connector pin out. It should be a single wire all by itself outside the conduit. If i remember it was a green wire and it may of had its own conduit

IIRC, they get the power for the intank pump mod from the connector behind the drivers front wheel well. I would look there first

I've installed 3 sets of glow shift gauges, and there is enough wiring for the egt probe. As far as adding wiring, I want to say you can but only a short wire because it will mess with the resistance which is how the egt probe and gauge are calibrated.

Check your switch out and also the clutch pedal pivot pin. I have seen that come loose and the clutch pedal wasnt going to the floor all the way. Also make sure the switch is fully clipped onto the master cylinder rod. Jump out the wiring wih a paper clip. Problemgoes away, then its in the switch or mounting

Codes on the odometer is done with the key on key off not holding the odomrter button - - - Updated - - - 1689 is communication between vp and ecm if i remember right. Try swapping horn and fuel system relay

Im trying to remember but i have forgot so many things, but check your fluid level. Also a brake light can also mean a fault but also cant remember if that is true on a 12 valve

I just installed two airdog 2-165s this weekend. Yes, pureflow has been going though some quality issues but hopefully they got them fixed. I have warrantied two pumps (raptors) no questions asked. One of the airdogs is on my dd so i trst their product. The key thing is the preasure gauge to monitor the pump

I have used both multiple times and havnt had any problems. Even had a customer that refused to change his rear main and smoked the valair single disk and they warrantied it with no questions asked.