mopartechnician

Call Erick Brown at Browns Diesel, he builds the Goerend trans for Dave and it will depend on what you want. I installed one and it will out shift any vehicle I have ever driven. (559) 867-1111 Tell him Seth sent ya.

Run it through the stock housing for the water separation, the ad doesn't separate as well as the stock one. I personally don't believe the heater in the stock housing does much good, I believe there is way to much fuel going through it to be able to heat anything. Most of your heat is going to come from the vp44 and engine returns. Get your self a good anti-gel and you will be good, stay away from the big names like howes and power service. I went with Amalgamated TDR-WDA. I have had good luck with it and people swear by it. You will need to order a big line kit from Vulcan to run from the filter to the vp44. I went with the 1/2" just because.As far as the shut off valve, you just need to put it between the ad and the tank, I know one guy takes off the handle so nobody screws with it. I am probably going to end up having to do something, since I have a sump.And for mounting the pump on the outside of the frame, I have done over a dozen on the outside and probably a dozen more on the inside with no problems either way. I personally ran mine on the outside and have no worries about it. It is tucked up there nicely. If I ever feel the need to protect it, I will just build something around it.

I have done lots of cummins work, and I can say I have only used the bar over tool maybe a dozen times. I usually only use it when getting torque convertor bolts.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8583-AirDog-2-165-install I always install them on the outside of the frame on short box trucks, its just not worth the struggle to mount them on the inside. I also run my wiring and fuel line up to the filter through the frame. There will be a large hole up towards the front of the frame and another by the transfer case.

most likely its a 3.55 rear diff. And when people get better mileage from a chip/programmer its because they pay attention to how they drive and do their best to get mileage.

ADJUSTMENTS - TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever from the idle position. Proper adjustment will allow simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to either move ahead of, or lag behind the lever on the throttle body. ADJUSTMENT VERIFICATION (1) Turn ignition key to OFF position. (2) Remove air cleaner. (3) Verify that lever on throttle body is at curb idle position (Fig. 234). Then verify that the transmission throttle lever (Fig. 235) is also at idle (fully forward) position. (4) Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever. (5) Compare position of cable end to attachment stud on throttle body lever: ² Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039 in.) in either direction (Fig. 236). ² If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment procedure. (6) Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body. ² If both levers move simultaneously from idle to half-throttle and back to idle position, adjustment is correct. ² If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents transmission lever from returning to closed position, cable adjustment will be necessary. Fig. 233 Throttle Valve Cable at Throttle Linkage 1 - THROTTLE LINKAGE 2 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE LOCKING CLIP 3 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE Fig. 234 Throttle Valve Cable Attachment - At Engine 1 - THROTTLE VALVE CABLE 2 - CABLE BRACKET 3 - THROTTLE BODY LEVER 4 - ACCELERATOR CABLE 5 - SPEED CONTROL CABLE 21 - 598 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 46RE BR/BE THROTTLE VALVE CABLE (Continued) ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. (2) Remove air cleaner if necessary. (3) Disconnect cable end from attachment stud. Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull cable off. (4) Verify that transmission throttle lever is in fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position. (5) Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position (Fig. 236). This will unlock the cable and allow for readjustment. (6) Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B) to remove any slack in the cable.Pulling too tight will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to move out of its idle position, which will result in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment. Slide the sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle bell crank lever © are aligned within one millimeter (1mm) (Fig. 236). (7) While holding the T.V. cable in the set position push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position (Fig. 236). This will lock the present T.V. cable adjustment. NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment. (8) Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle bellcrank lever ©. (9) Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously.

Ill hook you up later todau

I am pretty sure napa filters are junk. I would look around the internet for the pf7977 its well worth the hassle. But I will let the filter god chime in.

What year of truck? It could possible be the crankcase vent puking oil on the front of the engine Kdps are rare to fall out on vp trucks. But you can go in there in tab it. When you go in, you end up replacing the front crank seal and it is kinda a pain to get into the front cover. I am going to be doing a write up on various seal changes once I can get some customers trucks done and finally get mine into the shop

I was thinking crankshaft position sensor not camshaft in my previous post. Here is the description of the camshaft sensorOPERATION - DIESELThe Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) performs multiple functions. One function is to detect engine speed (rpm). Another function is to relate crankshaftposition and Top Dead Center (TDC) of the number 1 cylinder. Because the CMP is now used to relate crankshaft position, the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) is no longer used. The CMP (Fig. 6) contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator to generate a sync signal. The CMP uses three wires (circuits) for operation. One wire supplies a 5–volt signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM). Another wire supplies a sensor ground. The third wire supplies a signal back to the ECM relating engine speed and crankshaft position. The CMP also detects an area on the camshaft drive gear that has no notch (Fig. 7). When the sensor passes this area, it tells the Engine Control Module (ECM) that Top Dead Center (TDC) of the number 1 cylinder is occurring. The ECM will then adjust fuel timing accordingly. As the tip of the sensor passes the notches, the interruption of magnetic field causes voltage changes from 5 volts to 0 volts.

This is one of those its going to be hard to diagnose over the internet. One way to see if it bogs down with the transfer case in neutral to eliminate sensor or drivetrain issue.Every cam sensor issue i have seen causes a light and has no tach

Go with hd. I have installed three and two of the guys tow with them and love them

Fuel pressure? Codes?

Im nervous at 100k miles on common rail injectors. I have personally seen way too many go bad around that mileage. Filtration and lube are the key to happy injectors.

Hids are amazing. I had them in my 02 and i am putting them in my 01 when they go on sale black friday

Ya just as soon as it sprays, stop. Thats all you need. You need a pressire gauge with a screw on fitting for a schrader valve. I know there is threads on here with pictures and videos on how to test

OHonestly I would change your govenor pressure sensor and the govenor pressure solinoid. Get a borg warner solinoid they totally change the way the trans shifts. I have done almost a dozen on 2nd and 3rd gens and all the owners are impressed with the way it shifts. Go to cascadetransmissionparts.com

Mounted below drivers side battery. Follow the large wires under the intake manifold down to the relays. Then there will be four small wire with push on fittings. Just unhook the two outside wires so you are taking away a power or a negative off each solinoid.

I replied in your other thread

There should be a schrader valve on the inlet line going into the vp44. You can also pull one wire off of each intake heater relay and give the air filter a tiny shot of ether. If it fires than you have a fuel problem. But getting fuel pressure is the first mission.

0216 is the death code, meaning your injection pump is going bad

We would manually engage the tc with the scan tool to make sure the tc was working. All we did was hold the brake , put it in drive, the engage he tc. If the truck died, the tc was good. That being said, i would be looking at the tc or the circuit for the tc. Also maybe put the t-case in neutral and see if it does it. That would eliminate any electrical issues.Also is you put the t-case in neutral, be ready to shut you truck off because you wont be able to put it in park since the trans will be spinning freely

I would rotate your elbow.

If you get an Airdog, you don't need the inline filter because the fuel goes through the water separator first. If you get a raptor than you need one, but you can get them from any parts store. Just make sure its 1/2" in/out and is barbed so all you have to use is hose clamps.The 2 micron filter is what goes on the Airdog (along with the water separator). The smaller the number, the better the filtration.

You should be alright, like said before all you were doing was putting the band tighter on the drum.