mopartechnician

Here is what the sender should look like, it will be on the injection pump. http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r89141.asp Here is the oil pressure gauge I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJS4PO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And here is the copper tubing kit I got because I didn't trust the plastic tubing even though they say it will work with diesel http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029JYF6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most likely the sender is going out. I have an electronic sender in mine but i dont trust it so i bought a cheap oil pressure gauge off of amazon just to make sure. Also have a quick connect fitting to check it with another gauge if either acts up. Im really paranoid about fuel pressure. My airdog runs around 20psi and will bogg down to 13 when the intake heaters kick in. I also have a snubber and a grease gun hose to protect from hammering and vibrations

Is your gauge electronic?

Its strait out of the service manual. I couldnt add the pictures.If you look further down there is a picture. The kickdown cable hooks at the bottom of that bracket. The top is cruise, next one down is the trottle.

I always stick a chunk of cardboard between the intercooler and radiator. My thinking is i want the cool air across the intercooler but not the radiator. But the more i think about it, the cooler intake air might defeat the cardboard. Never even thought about cutting a whole to let cool air hitting thr fan

Never seen one in my many years of going through recalls and tsb's. The only way it would be a recall is if it would cause a fire/accident.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8661-Throttle-Cable-Adjustment 5th post

Its been almost 6 years since i have had my hands on a drb but i dont remember being able to change the dome light times. That being said i also never had anybody want the light off sooner

The hotter the engine the better the fuel burns. Just like they say you should avoid idleing your truck becuase the engine is so efficient at cooling that the cylinder temps drop causing unburnt fuel, which will end up causing carbon and can cause varnish on the valve stems.

Diesels work on combustion so you want more heat in the engine to burn better

Change the o-ring

No on the front of the crankshaft. Ive turned the engine over with the vp44 nut since its torqued to 120 pounds or something like that but I just use the dampener because its easy. I also make a mark on the dampener so i know where to turn when i go to bdc

I was always taught never to bar/rotate an engine backwards. From a cummis to a locomotive. Espcially when timing an engine. I always use the crankshaft dampener bolt to the engine. I always watch the rockers just to make wure then for top dead center you do both rockers on one then its intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust for 2-5. Then turn over for bdc and do both for six then do intake, exhaust, intake, exhaust comming back the engine 5-2 - - - Updated - - - For bdc jjst rotate the engine one complete revolution until the exhaust rocker on number one stops coming up and the intake starts going down

Whats a PRV?And its very common for cr injectors go bad. These injectors have such tight tollerances and they fire 3,4,5 times depending on the year that they wear fast. Plus i dont think they were ready for ulsd. Just think how many times they fire if you idle your truck for 10 minutes or run down the interstate for an hour. Idleing is also hard on them because the cylinder temps drop and the fuel doesnt completly burn causing carboning. The reson he is having long crank times is fuel rail pressure is bleeding back into the return

You can check the lp for flow but I have done over probably 100 common rail injectors for long crank/high return

Sounds like you have too much injector return, give it a sniff of ether and i bet it fires right up. There is a flash for long crank times for manual trans trucks but given the mileage i would put money on injectors

I guess if its plugged with dirt it would reduce the airflow and could cause a whisyle. Did the recirc door look good? It sits right above the blower motor. On 3rd gens when it breaks, it causes airflow restrictions

Back flush the heater core, I wonder if somebody didn't use some coolant leak fix and that does wonders on the cooling system

That's what I thought too but on my buddies truck it was overcharging the good battery. I would of assumed it was the hot battery but it tested good.

cruise control and normal

Ya dont ask me why but thats how it works. My buddies truck did the same exact thing about a year ago. Drivers side battery fixed it. I would test them both

I have seen this many times and its the opposite battery that is bad. The ecm read the voltage off the drivers side battery. I dont understand it either but everytime the drivers side battery is changed, the over charging goes away

There is a few things that go bad, but there are very expensive machines that test them to make sure they are working right. That's why they always charge a huge core.

Dave doesn't build transmission anymore. He got too many to do so now he only builds parts and that is why Erick and his brother Reb are building them for Dave now.

Codes? I would pull the chip and boost fooler and see if it does it. I have seen chips do weird things.