Hawkez

Why did you remove the fan?

I had the same problem a few years ago. I flushed the coolant and pulled the radiator and found it was caked with oil/grime and everything else. I soaked it in degreaser and sprayed it off with a pressure washer and it was good after that. Easy fix. If your truck is overheating on steep climbs now it will only get worse and eventually it will leave you stranded.

I pulled it and looked at it last night. The rubber has not separate and I didn't notice any debris. I reseated it today and I'll take it for a spin around to see if the problem continues. If so, I replace this T-Stat. Replacing the heater core went really well. The new core didn't come with the weather stripping that the old one had, so I put some on it. Did you pull your HVAC box?

This week I installed a new heater core and with that I flushed the radiator, installed a new thermostat and radiator cap. I pulled the radiator while I had it empty to inspect it for blockages and it looks great. Before I took it apart it was starting to run a little warmer then usual especially when under a heavy load, but it never overheated.. I had suspected that the thermostat was going bad. I put 50 miles on it after flushing it and changing those parts and the temp held steady and nothing was out of the norm. Until I drove home last night. On the freeway the temp sat at around 160*. That is after it warmed up to just above 190*, then it dropped down and sat there steady. If I got on the accelerator it would rise to 190*. Maybe I got a bad thermostat? It is a 190* thermostat from Napa. I'm not sure what else would cause this, would air in the system be the cause? I've never had a car or truck run cool like this. The outside temp was 50*, so nothing strange. The thermostat that I put in had a rubber ring that sat around the thermostat, the old one didn't have anything like that...

Maybe pull the door panel off and take a look, if you can hear the motor running but nothing happens there may be something visual. The door panels are easy to remove. Why would anyone not like power locks?

I can't believe I waited this long until I pulled the HVAC box and cleaned it up. It is all back together and it is nighty & day difference. I was reluctant about pulling the dash back to access everything but it really was pretty straight forward. The only problem that I ran into was the new blower didn't come with the weather tape inside like the OE blower had. I didn't realize this until everything was installed and I turned it on. Without that weather tape, it didn't sit tight and vibrated which made an odd sound. I pulled it and put in foam striping and it sits great now, no vibration or annoying sounds.

Since I bought the truck 5 years ago or so I have been dealing with poor air flow from the heater and A/C. In fact, it struggles to keep the windshield defrosted, especially with several people in the truck. Once in a while, usually after start up, I get a faint smell of something burning and I have even had smoke come from the vents a couple of times. The problem has been getting worse so I finally decided to pull the HVAC box and found what I thought I would. The evaporator is caked in leaves and other debris. I looked all over for where the burning was coming from and the only thing that I can see is that the blower resistor was covered in the same debris. With the resistor broke the conductors on the inside are exposed and I assume that they have been the cause of burning. There is nothing burnt or charred inside the box. How do I keep this stuff from getting inside the box again? I ordered a new heather core, evaporator, resistor, and blower since it is getting tough to spin. It ought to be much better than it was once I get it back together.

@Cronus577 what did you use for the new foam/sealer when you put your HVAC box together? I am pulling mine this weekend.

Micron

When you remove the canister can you see if the seal is torn or dirty? Is it leaking from the nut that tightens the canister? Also, you said when your fuel pressure jumped to 5 psi? You should maintain at least 14 psi of fuel pressure. If your left pump is only getting you up to 5 psi you ought to look into that.

I have a '99 and my oil pressure readout never drops to 0.

Which check engine codes is he getting? Has he ever checked for AC voltage coming from the alternator?

Works just fine with one person. I did mine this way on my own and I had no trouble or need or any one else. No need to buy tools that I don't need.

Holy Crap, this has been a process and to have it come to this point. Your patience and loyalty ought to be rewarded by something. You have some leverage to get a nice key chain or at least a t shirt.

While you are considering a new LP, during the install you ought to consider replacing the restrictive banjo bolts at the filter canister and going to the IP. Many here have opted to use a larger diameter fuel supply line from the tank the LP and then to the IP. That will also help you have stable fuel pressure under WOT. Something to consider.

I would recommend ditching the amp. The sound in my truck sounds great for what I want out of it. Making the wiring work is very simple. I had two speakers that were blown so I had to upgrade the speakers, I have no regrets.

I don't know. I watched a video on youtube that told me that gravity doesn't exist and that the earth is flat...they seemed pretty edjucated. Sorry, I couldn't resist and I meant to offense to anyone in the flat earth community.

I recently changed out the speakers and deck in my truck. My truck had the infinity speakers. It will take a little bit wiring at the speaks so that everything works but it is easy and simple to do. I used 6X9"s for the front and 5.25" for the rear. I am happy with it, but I am not much of a sound guy. I use blue tooth for my calls, not issues. When you remove the factory amp that is secured to the speaker you will have to do some wiring to get everything to work. When I initially replaced my speakers and didn't wire in my tweeters so I had to fix that. Not a big deal, but it would have been better had I fixed it right the first time. Also, after I put everything back in I did a poor job securing the wiring so it was in the way of the window and wouldn't allow the window to fully come down. I had to re-remove the door panel to tire the wire loom out of the way and it now works just fine. Here is a link of the write up that I did.

I like it a lot. I don't have much cabin noise or drone. I'm not sure what an exhaust sound clip is.

Maybe you could provide a little bit more information. Does this happen only when you are pulling something out? Does it ever happen outside of pulling? Do you have any engine fault codes? What is your fuel pressure doing during these events? Simple things to check would be air filter and fuel filter, but if you can provide any mods that are on your truck that would be helpful.

Hit up @Dynamic, he is the resident transmission guy. He can probably steer you in the right direction.

But isn't that a legitimate problem that our legislators are facing? I know we like to paint the tax collectors as the boogie men, but we live in a community with a social contract to all pitch in to make we have roads and infrastructure that will make our collective lives better. Every state is facing problems where fewer tax dollars are coming in from gas taxes. Cars and trucks get much better mileage than years ago. However, the need to maintain and repair road as well as build them continues. Who else is going to fund this. People complain about how much they pay in taxes and then also complain about how crappy the roads are. I don't get excited each time I pay a tax, but it is necessary. As cars become more fuel efficient, or not dependent on fuel at all there has to continue to be a way for a state to fund road maintenance. This is certainly going to require other avenues to tax the citizens. Recently in our state, legislatures have looked at the tax per mile idea or other ways to tax electric vehicles, because they use the roads, but are not paying for road repairs through buying gasoline. It was a big debate. The optics of it drove a lot of people crazy as the world tries to become more environmentally friendly, legislatures didn't want to start taxing electric cars and unintentionally dissuade people from buying these gas free cars. Again, I'm not trying to convince anyone that they should love paying taxes. I'm happy to pay my share, but I don't want to pay anymore than I have to.

Fuel pressure gauge is a must in these trucks. this will help immensely in troubleshooting and prevention of future failures. Also, how many miles on the truck?

I would be interested to know what your fuel pressure is doing. Do you have a stock lift pump? Are you checking codes with the key trick or using a type of code reader? If it is the key trick, I would look into a code reader to verify that there are no codes. Testing for AC noise like suggested above is quick and easy.

I bet a similar argument went on years ago as gas powered vehicles were rivaling the horse and buggy. Gas powered cars couldn't go far, there wasn't infrastructure to fill up everywhere, the cars where limited to where they could travel. Gas powered vehicles one day will be replaced by something else. Electric vehicles have come a long way, and they will continue to change and develop into much more than they currently are.