Me78569

They are 15% off until Dec 1st use the coupon code HighIdle

As much as we would like to sell you a high idle switch it wont help your issue. 1st check for boost leaks However looking at your lift and tires I am not suprised by those EGTS when at cruise. To much wind resistance and too much rotational mass to be efficent. I am also assuming you have 3.55 axles? The tires plus the rear end give you an effective rear end gear of ~3.05 which does not really work on a truck. Play with that to see the issue. If you want to keep your tires and lift I would suggest regearing to bring your efficetive ratio back to something that works well.

I would see what @dieselautopower is doing on a pump today.

Looks like the speed sensor inside the vp is not happy. There is a tone wheel in the VP44, If this was a rear diff I would suggest cleaning the sensor to make sure there is no gunk on it. I suppose you could try that on the vp, dunno if it is possible however. See the images to show the tone wheel and you can see the sensor on the ribbon cable., Beyond that you are kind of stuck as there isn't much to fix with it. FYI the 47re auto is a 4 speed with lockup in 3rd and 4th which makes it feel like a 5 speed.

@xxTJRocksxx As for your MPG, I would expect it to come up somewhat if you get coolant up to 190*f-200*f. I would get a new theromostat.

Welcome aboard man. We looking forward to seeing you around.

It's pretty easy to get to, just to pricey for my liking.

Ya I would just drop your fueling at cruise by a 3-5% and see if it gets better. You are runnning bigger injectors than me but the same tune so I would expect to start to see this type of issue. The more aggressive your tune gets the more you will notice CC freaking out like this. I would also put in a section of smaller vacuum line leading to the CC module.

Noticed your Edit, So your issue can likely be cured by making your tune more lazy in the cruise area, OR by putting a restrictor in the vacuum line that runs to your CC module. You could also make a flat spot in your tune at your crusie psi. That way if boost comes up fueling doesn't increase.

Your oil pressure sensor is bad, mine was doing the same thing. I am not able to understand the graph info overload. I also can't tell the difference in the blue timing lines between the 2 run.

The Box under the hood will fully start much faster than you can crank the truck. The phone app is purely a display, once you setup your tune and settings they are stored in the box and loaded the next time you start the truck.

Sign me up I would kill to have that......

I wish you would hurry up an get that to sale....I need one bad

Mines black.

The old 3000 series tunes were called "beta" they dont have any of the new tuning in them.

we have the Quadzilla tunes all stored, but you do have to be a donating member to access the download section

No issue, My mistake in the tune I have listed it jumps by 2 psi from 16 and above.

Don't bother data logging until temps are above 170*F Timing is stupidly advanced from the ecm at that point and the quad doesn't add timing. I decluttered your data log so I could read into it better, to me it looks like speed is increasing and decreasing too much in the places where timing is dropping. to "cure" your fueling surge issue that is causing the above I am going ot say you should pull some fueling in the 3-7 psi range in your mpg tune. Does your truck have vacuum cruise control or cable cruise control?

The code you posted an image of shows that you are trying to setup the canbus shield on pin 9. The early seeedstudio boards used pin 10. I would verify your board is using pin 10 then change the can channel to be pin 10 First tab line 23 Change MCP CAN1 (9); //Create CAN Channel To MCP CAN1 (10); //Create CAN Channel That should make your turbo start responding.

No polarity on the speed sensor. More than likely your issue is due to the pin needed on the can bus shield. Some use pin 9 some use pin 10. What can bus shield did you get?

No conflict. The Arduino pin is 8 for turbo rpm, the 9924 output pin is 7 on the chip, So run pin 7 of the 9924 to pin 8 of the Arduino with a 10k pull up.

Pin for RPM is used by 8 according to the library for freqmeasure, so as long as you have the output from the 9924 going to the pin 8 of the arduino it should work. how is your 9924 soldier onto the arduino? I know I got mine backwards the first time I tried. I know I had issues with reading RPM when I had tried to solder the wires, it doesn't take much resistance in the wires to cause the RPM not to read. Verify continuity in the wires coming from the turbo to the arduino. I did some looking on how I have mine wired up Here are the Pins on the 9924 for A2 mode. Looks like 4 needs to be set to ground.

I would spend your time and money retrofitting Morimoto mini h1's For the cost you will not get better output and a wider field of light.

Believe me I wish they would answer a lot of questions hahah. I am sure I could write some code to make idle = 0 , but I don't like that. I would rather show what the ecm is seeing for boost.

So as an FYI from 0-16 psi the Quad is reading boost from the ECM, not VIA the sensor itself. So what you are seeing at idle is what the ECM is seeing. There has to be some sort of outside change that caused the map values to be scewed offidle as there were no code changes between the idle people reporting perfect idle reading and then the boos tbeing scewed by a psi or 2. HOWEVER, the strange reading at idle is actually a much smaller issue than the jumping we had before so I am not overly concerned about it at this point. So I dunno, Also as a side note, I would HIGHLY recommend not stacking ANY tuner with the Quadzilla. Doing so will lead to unpredictible results.