Me78569

Tyler and I were talking about oem timing. Figured I should do some more data logging of what the ECM is doing in terms of timing. These show purely oem timing with no quad fueling or timing adjustments. It appears that RPM play the greatest role in terms of timing, boost does, but not nearly to the degree that rpm does. IF you want to download the datalogs they are attached. iQuad-2016-11-18-07.31.031496951642.csv iQuad-2016-11-18-07.35.531190242772.csv iQuad-2016-11-18-07.32.481566824965.csv

agree'd regardless of what the people on the street believe in there has to be respect for them. How can we expect them to respect our wish for what we want when they get treated like that? Something about treat people how you want to be treated.

I must of read that 50 times as "head gasket" rather than "had new gasket"

You're gonna have to re-explain what you are trying to solve, I am a little lost.

Meh not that hard to build it. My code is posted so you just upload it to an arduino with a canbus sheild plug some wires into place and call it good. I should make a "lite" version of my code to allow the VGT to run without the screen etc.

Not a clue

agree with @TFaoro on trying it with the hx first. the vgt isn't that bad for cost turbo cost for me was ~$350 controller was ~$100 in parts that are actually needed t3 to t4i flange is ~$140. I might have $700 in my setup plus I have an Exhaust brake

yea, you can uy a built controller from lilbb.com or build the one I have. in the sub 500 hp range I think you would be VERY hard pressed to do better than the he351ve in terms of a dd/towing setup.

I can't stress how much I like my setup currently. At sea level the turbo is pretty much always on boost, spool is stupid, and EGT's are hard to push past 1200* when towing even with the quad turned up to a level that is unreasonable for towing.

If it ain't broke don't fix it?

Whatever you do don't get cheapo housings from Amazon. OEMs have a better reflector. Issue with OEM is simply the bulbs are halogen which are limited by gas to ~500 lumens( I think) Hotter bulbs put out more light at the expense of shorter life. Personally I recommend retrofitting projectors and hids. Whatever you do don't put hids in the OEM housings without a projector. The housing was designed to reflect light from a build with a filament, using hids in a halogen housing will scatter light and it will blind people.

I dont think it will pre crank but I think it still does from start to 20 mph.

Here's the update showing how the transition is between canbus fuleing and wiretap Another run high throttle snap, tc locked low revs Fuel stretch on both of these runs was set at 1700

New flash with HUGELY improved wiretap fueling smoothness. I am unable to feel when wiretap comes on now, also transition smoke is gone. No more uncontrollable puff of smoke when the psi is reached. https://www.dropbox.com/s/up9aaaxccu9twph/ADR1000V2.exe?dl=0 Thing to note is the changes to the tuning variables for Low pump limit psi and low pump % Low limit controls the same function but is changed in how it works. It is still where wiretap fueling starts. change is how the fueling is calculated to improve smoothness Low Pump % is now to set the low limit for the lowest % of wiretap you want once the above is reached. Most if not all DD tunes should have this set to below %5. Above that should be race only. documents have been updated to reflect the change.

Out of my control. Doubt it will make the cut as it is not high priority compared to the driver signing issue.

crazy. Well hopefully that resolves your issue, I think it will.

nutso. I thought the pigtail normally came with the sensor.

Yellow turbo is the turbo timer. If it is yellow you know the feature is enabled.

yea that's not right. sounds like you have a short to 12v somewhere.

Don't worry I will put together an article for it haha, it can get a little messy but worth it.

I almost wonder if your lock cylinder is the issue? Seems like the truck doesn't know when you are turning the key. I however have never messed with this myself so I have no idea where to take it from there.

Does it click when you try to start? I would check and recheck the fuses.

Well that's why it doesn't work for you, you forgot the unicorn piss.

Also don't forget to work your truck hard once in awhile. A Trailer and a few mile long hill to get EGTS above 1000* for a while, easy for us guys in the mountains, not so much for the flat landers. But really I am a firm believer in a car or truck needing to be worked hard to stay running well. Run it hard on a semi regular basis.

Do you get any lights in the cab when you key on? Does it seem like the truck has power?