Me78569

I was looking at their stuff when I am shopping for my injectors, but I couldn't find anything that they made, only ddp.

I would recommend putting it under the rear seat. If you are anywhere near as tall as I am 6'2" a roof mounted rack won't leave you much headroom. Here is what I did If you are needing a roof mounted system I am afraid I can't help you much.

First post updated.

I would support CCP DFI DAP or Vulcan ( not sure who's injectors they have now days) I know CCP DFI and DAP all make great injectors in house. I personally went with DFI injectors, chris was great to work with and he has VERY reasonable prices ( $350 shipped for 100hp injectors)

Here ya go, I happen to have pulled mine off today. I think they are metric but I took both for you Length ~ 60 mm Width ~ 10 MM Pitch - 1.5 mm In standard Length ~2.3" Width .38" thread per in 20

an hx35 without a silencer ring is enough to drive a person crazy while towing.

yea I don't care to hear the turbo much anymore. That and you have to machine the ring out means I am not going to do it haha.

well I just bought a new intercooler pipe $100 shipped http://www.stainlessdiesel.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=55&product_id=176 That will allow me to run the turbo the intercooler.

Nope gonna leave it in as it is part of the compressor housing. I did hit a snag, I cannot find a machine shop that is willing to machine out the compressor housing so I am going to post the he300vg housing on ebay (correctly unlike the guy I bought it from) and try to get my money back, shouldn't be hard as I didn't pay much for it. Nick

All updates beyond this point will be placed in the article for this. You can find the article here. Feel free to post and questions or improvements to my writeup. Thanks Nick Article can be found here. Pre 7/6/15 This will show the progress in installing the he351ve into my 2nd gen cummins. I will update as I go along. This thread is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve. The thread that covers the controller can be found here Parts __________________________________________________________________________________________________ HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125) __________________________________________________________________________________________________ t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150) __________________________________________________________________________________________________ 4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10) __________________________________________________________________________________________________ 5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5) __________________________________________________________________________________________________ 10 x 5/8" pipe clamps. __________________________________________________________________________________________________ T3 oil drain ( ebay) __________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store __________________________________________________________________________________________________ HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it. I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale. __________________________________________________________________________________________________ You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos. I went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE You will need a 2.75" to 3" reducer and clamps for this to work. There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also. unsure on that but you can try. __________________________________________________________________________________________________ First Specs on the Turbos HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min left vs HE351ve 60/68/3-25 right 69ish lb/min Start pulling the old turbo off Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal. Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them so you can bolt the adapter flange to the manifold. The short bots go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the holes of the flange. Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used. you can see the bolt hole in question. Use the 5/8"coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose. You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve. Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed. this is a PITA to say the least. I had to cut mine out. The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow. In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut. Center Section installed and coolant hose run to the turbo. I still need to run the return to the hot line, but I need some more hose. I used a sawzall to cut the flange off the Oil return tube. I will use some oil rated hose to connect the turbo to the return line. You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections. I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt. I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp. I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work. Once the center section is installed,ensure you have removed the alignment dowels from the compressor housing so you can clock the compressor like so Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to " reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the intercooler. Alighn all boots and tighten down the clamps. Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block. I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it. I used a pfe 5/8" hose to replace the hard metal oil drain. There is a larger diameter coupler near that block that you can insert the pfe hose into and clamp down to retain the drain connection to the block. Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line. Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose. You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together.

I also got the compressor cover in and it turned out to be a he300vg cover not a 351. I knew it wasn't a 351 but oh well. I will talk to a machine shop. Hopefully without too much cost I can get it enlarged to the 351 size and keep the all oem intake track.

Weird dunno

Perfect point to shove a cummins in that ford. Someday I will have a obs 4 door ford f350 with my motor/trans. Hopefully the Vin is a gasser Vin so I won't ha e t worry about diesel emissions

I am calling mine done until I get it fully in the truck and start testing on the road.

I need a reason to do some long range mpg runs with the new turbo.

Great work cowboy. Unneeded if you ever go with the vgt turbo (one for sale for 300 on cf by the way)

Nothing to show yet, I just have a friend with a rapid prototype machine so I can print out new ends to the shift selector that will allow more surface area for more buttons. I HATE having toggle switches on the dash so this will put everything on the shifter so one hand can control EB and lockup for us auto guys.

Watching this closely. I use Paypal a ton, heck it is %90 of how I pay for used stuff of forums etc.

Is there any interest in a larger end to the shifter rod that will allow for more buttons? Lockup? Exhaust Brake? OD? or whatever else.

Well I pulled the injectors last night to find this Called Chris at DFI for some new 100's New cover for the he351 is coming in that will allow me to run and OEM setup. I "think" it is a cover from a he431 but I won't know until I get it. It will be a good option for guys that want to leave the oem intake in place. As for how to control the exhaust brake, I am talking with a friend of mine who has a rapid prototype machine and I am going to have him make a larger gear shifter handle that will support more buttons. I will drill out the metal shifter rod to handle more wires. I might talk with him about making a few extras. I think it would be nice to have everything on the shifter handle.

have you scanned for codes yet? Plus the above of course.

Step one is done

I'll be there haha. Don't have to talk me into it. I love a good road trip.

well I screwed the pooch at work this weekend so turbo didn't get installed. Ugh.

I am going to plug in the turbo today and verify that it still adjusts the veins nicely. If it does I will be trying to install it this weekend. Only thing I am unsure of is the hot side to intercooler boot. I THINK a 45 reducing elbow will make it work if i clock the turbo right. Pretty excited.