Me78569

Alright thanks. I will pick a weekend that is supposed to be nice and pull it down and see what I find.

I was wondering if I could just split the housing with the transfer case attached to the tranny. Not sure I want to do this during the winter though, I might wait until spring haha. looking at a 241dhd iI am guessing my issue is in the range selector collar, I think I screwed something up there.

Sorry N not park is when the wheels were spinning. it's been a long time so my memory is a little fuzzy. Shifter is in the right spot. I am guessing the range selector section is screwed up.

huh?

Yea that was my thought. Just seems odd to me that I can't push the shifter into N. There is no grinding, it just won't go. It's almost "blocked"

Yea I am %100 sure it isn't a vacuum leak. It is a phyical issue in the transfer case not allowing me to move into N

For some time now I have not been able to switch the Transfer case into N and therefore no 4l either. I have 2wd and 4h. This happened due to my dumbness. Last year when I swapped my tranny I caused this. I had the truck up on jack stands and the truck was idling and I was going between P R N D to make sure the tranny was working. Now I made the mistake of testing the transfer case with the wheels off the ground so even in P the rear wheels were moving slowly. once I kicked it out of N iin the transfer case It grinded but finally went into 4l. I then tried to go back to N in the Tcase and it grinded again and when into N. After that I put the rear of the truck back down and it shifted into 2wd and 4 high fine, but no longer into n or 4 low. My question is how badly did I screw the transfer case up? It is possible for the tcase to "out of sync" and therefore not sync? Think it is possible to R&R the case or should I start looking for a new one at some point? nick

yea I deleted it haha. Got frustrated wtih junk in my inbox and went full rambo. I know the link though.

You think I saved thsat email????? I might have hold on....... nope it is gone. I did see that link though.

Ed, Yep I was guessing that was the case. I just didn't want ot beleive it haha. I was searchign for that info in the thread, but unable to find it. What are the p codes? sharing is caring. I was working on getting the data stream from the bluetooth to my laptop with a terminal program. I'll give that one you stated a try.

More of a question of "when" rather than "if" might take me 20 or 30 years, but I will get there. you can assign sensors voltage values for a pid so a range of low 0v to high 5 v for the map sensor then using a dynamic voltage increase you could calc a boost level vs a voltage and display it. This could be done for any sensor that is transmitted via the obd. Keeping mind of course if your truck has a boost fooler you would see what the ecm see and not the tuner.

At this point this is more a place holder that will be moved to a article if we can get stuff working with the Torque app that communicates with the ecm via a cheapo bluetooth obd2 adapter. Out of the box the app doesn't read much of anything. You get RPMS, load, coolant temp maybe. Very basic stuff, however you do have the ablity to enter custom PID's and have the app read values manually. Figure if we could read tranny temp, oil pressure, boost values etc it would be a VERY cheap way for some of the guys to get at least some of the gauges they need. MAP PID: p0102 from what I can see? so firstly, has anyone done this work yet? No point in recreating the wheel if I don't need to. Thanks Nick

No switch is needed to make it high idle on it's own with the programming of the ECM. The smarty flash contains the high idle feature of the ECM Cummins created. The switch is for when you want to control having it when you want it. The ECM will high idle until 150*f ish is reached wherea s the high idle switch fooelr the ecm into never seeing above 143*f so high idle will stay enabled until you want to use the truck. This is VERY useful in multiple situtations.

Ensure you lube the shaft up to get the seal to work on the front of the tranny. When I did mine I forgot this step and leaked about a liter of fluid out of the input shaft seal.

Must resist the urge to learn more stuff. I'll see if I get some time tomorrow to do this.

I agree with this now that I see you have black smoke. Don't think you added that detail on Cumminsforum

http://forum.mopar19...s/?hl=quadzilla In the "sensor" section Nick

it is a beater hahaha. I dunno why I like it so much, might be due to how barbaric it is. compared to the v12 bmw I DD it is like driving a Meth'd up Ton-Ton Man I look good up there.

too small and you will hear bad noises.......

lol you don't want it. I actually think I figured out what the terrible noise under my front end is. appartantly the PO used the early control arms bolts so my 16mm holes have 14 mm bolts........

I dunno I struggle with it daily. Now If I could only sell my cracked dash, missing bezel, death wobble oil burner.

The one very nice thing about bmw is you have this http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do Published exploded parts of all cars they ever made. Iw ish dodge had this for us.

Thanks Michael. It was starting to make me angry having to reach over to a switch, so I fixed it.

Jarren at Airdog told me that a machining issue in the pump bodies causes the Orings in the regulator to get cut and leak, thus causing issues with pressure drop. Of the 4 Airdogs I had fail 3 of them started to show very bad pressure drops before they kicked the bucket. I would call Airdog.

yep, hope it helps.