Me78569

I decided to go through the trouble of installing a Momentary switch in the gear select arm. A Momentary switch means that it will only connect the circuit if the button is pressed. As soon as you release the button the circuit closes. IE: Pressing it will complete the Ground and trigger the Torque Converter to Lockup, as soon as you release the button the Torque converter lockup will release. This fixed the issue of forgetting that the switch was on when coming to a stop. I found that in the cases where I wanted to use the lockup switch I was already using my right hand to shift down or disable OD. It was only natural to think that a lockup switch on the Gear Selector would be nice. This DIY is not for how to connect the lockup switch, You can see how to do that by clicking here. Sorry for the blurry pictures. You can use any switch you like, so long as it fits. The switch I used was 1 Black Momentary Off on Push Button Horn Switch | eBay Your switch should be no deeper than ~1/2" This will require taking the truck out of park to adjust the shifter, so ENSURE YOU APPLY THE EBRAKE AND CHALK THE WHEELS BEFORE YOU START. Article for this mode is found below.

I think there is a FP adjust in the pv1's.... but without a reading it shoudl read 0 psi regardless as it looks for a voltage, I think.

Sadly, you are gonna struggle to find one. ebay or the classifieds if you can find out. Might call Jacob at DAP and see if they have any on the shelves still.

I also went with Dana Spicer from Dennys Driveshaft, My moogs lasted less than 30k. I have been VERY uinhappy with Moog stuff lately. My moog tie rod ends are already starting to get loose. I must have less than 10k on them.

2nd gear locked is a different animal, but you have to watch the 2-3 shift if you leave it locked. I am working on momentrary lockup switch so that I can have one hand control the shift and the lockup.

test fp with a different gauge to verify the drop in pressure. if another gauge shows the same then get on the phone with airdog and ask for jarren.

good luck man. I wish I had some more time to mess with a busted pv1, but life gets in the way.

the update for the pv1 is 1.3.8. Van Akken actually bought pv1 from quad back in the day.

Where did you get this pv1 from? Did you buy it recently? A guy sent me a pv1 with this exact issue to fix. It came up with van whatever when you plugged it in. I couldn't get it to communicate back to the adr box. I sent it back to him and explained the issue. I would hate to think he sold it to you as working. I "THINK" that this box wasn't a pv1 to start with but sold to van aank to use with their box. this was a very long time ago. In theory it should work if you get the firmware loaded on it right, but I couldn't get it to.

the pv1 updates are in the full zip. Is the pv1 plugged in at the point that it freezes? Restart and try again I suppose

yea you need net framework. We have all the quadzila 2nd gen stuff saved on a website that can be found in the first post of this thread.

The pv1 can be updated without being plugged into the adr box. The 2 I did fix with this issue I did in my office.

Ed, His PV1 has lost it's mind. You can try to reload the pv1 update from a windows xp 32 bit machine, that MAY fix the issue. What you are seeing is a corrupt or damaged firmware on the pv1 itself. I have fixed 2 pv1s with this issue, 2 tohers I could not bring back. They work as gauges fine, but they don't send communications back to the adr box itself, only recieve. Things like turbo timer won't work either.

I noticed a large bump is MPG when I went from dding at lvl 1/2 to lvl 10. I averaged 2 mpg better on a long trip on 10 vs 2. but you have to drive nice otherwise those numbers go out the window.

Can you do any custom tuning? or does it revert back to 0 when you try and save?

Yep that's the right place. I did it to mine and it works. However, it's hard to lock and upl,oad the switch fast enough in 2nd durning dd duty. I am working on a momentary switch rather than a flip switch. I am trying to get a switch installed on the gear select lever so I can swift manually and control lockup with one hand.

First thing to check is for fuel leaking into the motor, look at the wires coming out of the pump any fuel? Next is to adjust up pressure some and see if you pressure drops between idle and WOT are the same as before or worse. 3 of the raptors I have had die started having very odd spikes and declines in pressure.

the relief valve tries to keep pressure at 14psi by opening, but a good lift pump will overcome what the relief valve will allow back to the tank so we get higher psi. If you set your pressure to 50psi the pump still sees 50 ish psi, minus whatever flow the relief valve lets back to the tank. Do you have the test bench to calibrate it? End Sarcasm Very unlikely he could put it back together without needing to calibrate the computer on the top of the pump. I guess if something very minor was wrong with it it might be possible, but if you need to calibrate the put you are up the creek.

Thans Mike, Good to know.

Yep within the VP44. I supposed fuel temp plays a role in kicking on the fuel bowl heater?

Increasing line size will not keep your pressures from droping. From all the work I have done to fix my pressure drop issues, the onyl thing I haven't don't is junk the craptor for a FASS.

there is a huge amount of data that is able to be read. I can see Voltage to ecm Fuel temp iat temp throttle position ( APPS) engine load coolant temp obviously( egt boost trans temp) It makes it significantly easier to diagnois issues. I can see bad connections via voltage, bad grounds via voltage, bad map via values, bad apps via position jumping etc etc etc I can drive more efficently by watching load vs egt vs throttle postion vs boost. A tool such as the scan gauge or a tuner that reads the livedata is a great.

Yea typically I see temps ambent temps never above 100*F so that may be the entire issue, and no exhuast brake....yet VGT here I come

Nope, but you can download the FSM

Yea Hopefully, but I am not holding my breath. Proof is in the pudding.